Rate my suspension setup!

[Biggsy]

Well after long hours of debating and research, parts are starting to arrive as are more questions! Can someone please point me in the right direction of how long the adjustable sway bar end links need to be? These will be paired with the steeda sport progressive springs. Photo for reference!

Stock length to start. Then to fine tune it to remove preload, while suspension is loaded adjust the length of one side until it slides in sway bar hole with very very minimal effort

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[BVLCK_S550]

Stock length to start. Then to fine tune it to remove preload, while suspension is loaded adjust the length of one side until it slides in sway bar hole with very very minimal effort

I was thinking about just doing half an inch shorter then the stock link?

 

[Biggsy]

I was thinking about just doing half an inch shorter then the stock link?

Most instructions for end links from most companies state to adjust it to stock length. And then to remove preload, adjust one side.
Why half an inch shorter?

 

[BVLCK_S550]

Most instructions for end links from most companies state to adjust it to stock length. And then to remove preload, adjust one side.
Why half an inch shorter?

I was thinking half an inch or maybe even an inch to start off with because of the of the lowering springs. I’m aware there are so many variables but lowering the car basically an inch on all 4 corners makes me think they would also need to be an inch shorter then the stock links.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Why did you buy adjustable endlinks if you dont even know if you’re adjusting them longer or shorter or the same as stock?!?

Like, you should have a pretty good idea what you’re trying to solve with the parts you buy.

If you just wanted blue endlinks, set them to the stock height.

 

[Biggsy]

I was thinking half an inch or maybe even an inch to start off with because of the of the lowering springs. I’m aware there are so many variables but lowering the car basically an inch on all 4 corners makes me think they would also need to be an inch shorter then the stock links.

Doesn’t really work like that. Gotta think about the purpose of sway bars and the end links. Personally I would just do stock length since that’s what the instructions say. The benefit is that you have stronger links and they won’t bend. Adjustable links allow the removal of preload. If you don’t adjust to remove it, will you feel it on the street? Maybe …maybe not.

 

[BVLCK_S550]

Why did you buy adjustable endlinks if you dont even know if you’re adjusting them longer or shorter or the same as stock?!?

Like, you should have a pretty good idea what you’re trying to solve with the parts you buy.

If you just wanted blue endlinks, set them to the stock height.

Easy easy I know exactly why I bought them and I’m aware of pre load. I’m aware that lowering the car changes the suspension geometry which is why I bought them in the first place. I’m trying to lower and upgrade the car properly. I’m also installing everything myself so I was hoping to just get some insight or other peoples experience and almost a cheat sheet to just set it and be done with it. My car is not and will probably never be a full blown race car.

 

[BVLCK_S550]

Doesn’t really work like that. Gotta think about the purpose of sway bars and the end links. Personally I would just do stock length since that’s what the instructions say. The benefit is that you have stronger links and they won’t bend. Adjustable links allow the removal of preload. If you don’t adjust to remove it, will you feel it on the street? Maybe …maybe not.

My main focus is to keep the sameish suspension geometry with the car being lowered.

 

[Biggsy]

My main focus is to keep the sameish suspension geometry with the car being lowered.

I could be wrong in this so others can correct me if needed but sway bar load has nothing to do with the suspension geometry you are talking about. In a straight line it doesn’t serve a purpose. You’ll feel the load of the bar when turning. I don’t think half an inch will do much though if you do make it shorter. I think you’ll be good either way.
Interested in feedback of your set up when finished. Good luck man

 

[BVLCK_S550]

I could be wrong in this so others can correct me if needed but sway bar load has nothing to do with the suspension geometry you are talking about. In a straight line it doesn’t serve a purpose. You’ll feel the load of the bar when turning. I don’t think half an inch will do much though if you do make it shorter. I think you’ll be good either way.
Interested in feedback of your set up when finished. Good luck man

Thank you for your feedback and input. I’ll do some more research and once installed on the car fine tuning. Like I said before I was really just looking to avoid the fine tuning by asking others what lengths they had theirs set to. This car is a weekend and north Georgia mountain carver, not a track car.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Easy easy I know exactly why I bought them and I’m aware of pre load. I’m aware that lowering the car changes the suspension geometry which is why I bought them in the first place. I’m trying to lower and upgrade the car properly. I’m also installing everything myself so I was hoping to just get some insight or other peoples experience and almost a cheat sheet to just set it and be done with it. My car is not and will probably never be a full blown race car.

Apologies, I know I’m being way too confrontational, but if you didn’t understand exactly what geometry problem the endlinks would fix (even assuming there is one!) then you coulda saved some money, especially because people are telling you to set them to stock length, which makes them the exact same as stock from a geometry perspective. Ok, sorry for the rant, I’ll try to be more helpful.

The stock geometry has a range of travel, and the endlinks just connect the swaybar to the strut. That connection arm isnt really super sensitive to length.. the link length has a small impact on the swaybar’s effective spring rate, but not all that much if you haven’t changed the ride height a ton, so if its roughly a 90 degree angle and if your control arms and your swaybar are not touching in the range of motion and if they are ‘roughly’ parrallel, then you’re probably just fine. If the endlink angle to the swaybar is too many degrees below or past 90, then you might adjust the endlink length (or if it contacts a control arm). Usually just lowering the car a reasonable amount wont cause an issue.

One could, in theory, use swaybar preload to influence the corner weighting of the car, but that would be a mighty PITA and coilover adjustment is an easier way to do that. You’d need calibrated corner weight scales on a true surface to measure that anyway.

At least we can say most of the aftermarket endlinks are stronger than the factory ones, which used to bend easily and often… at least until the aftermarket endlink’s adjustment nuts shake loose from constant vibration and the threaded rod breaks from the lack of support. Ahh good times.

 

[JustSomeGuy]

Apologies, I know I’m being way too confrontational, but if you didn’t understand exactly what geometry problem the endlinks would fix (even assuming there is one!) then you coulda saved some money, especially because people are telling you to set them to stock length, which makes them the exact same as stock from a geometry perspective. Ok, sorry for the rant, I’ll try to be more helpful.

The stock geometry has a range of travel, and the endlinks just connect the swaybar to the strut. That connection arm isnt really super sensitive to length.. the link length has a small impact on the swaybar’s effective spring rate, but not all that much if you haven’t changed the ride height a ton, so if its roughly a 90 degree angle and if your control arms and your swaybar are not touching in the range of motion and if they are ‘roughly’ parrallel, then you’re probably just fine. If the endlink angle to the swaybar is too many degrees below or past 90, then you might adjust the endlink length (or if it contacts a control arm). Usually just lowering the car a reasonable amount wont cause an issue.

One could, in theory, use swaybar preload to influence the corner weighting of the car, but that would be a mighty PITA and coilover adjustment is an easier way to do that. You’d need calibrated corner weight scales on a true surface to measure that anyway.

At least we can say most of the aftermarket endlinks are stronger than the factory ones, which used to bend easily and often… at least until the aftermarket endlink’s adjustment nuts shake loose from constant vibration and the threaded rod breaks from the lack of support. Ahh good times.

I’ve heard a lot of people on here say that aftermarket sway bars are useless without aftermarket end links to go with them. That doesn’t seem to be inline with my limited knowledge of four-wheels, but idk what the hell I’m talking about… what are your thoughts on that?

 

[NightmareMoon]

My main focus is to keep the sameish suspension geometry with the car being lowered.

I’ve heard a lot of people on here say that aftermarket sway bars are useless without aftermarket end links to go with them. That doesn’t seem to be inline with my limited knowledge of four-wheels, but idk what the hell I’m talking about… what are your thoughts on that?

My 2c is endlinks are simply a strong rod which is a specific length. Even with aftermarket bars, in many cases the stock endlinks are both strong enough and also a perfectly fine length.

Endlinks are not complicated.

 

[BVLCK_S550]

After a little more digging the attached thread is basically what I'm asking. I know I'm not the only one:

 

[lo-fi]

You don't need to worry about how much, the how much isn't important.

Another example

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