Pressure Washer for "Foam Cannon"

[WD Pro]

For me, one full bottle will foam two cars.

If the bottle is empty, I drop the head into my rinse bucket and it sits on the grit guard until I give it a shake, dry it off and then store it when I'm putting my stuff away.

If the bottle is half full I store the bottle 'as is' with the head on it until text time I need it - but I tip it forward as I'm walking to the garage to empty what's in the gun (only so it doesn't drip on the garage floor lol).

My foam gun is 12 years old and I have never had an issue with it bar one, when I stripped it, couldn't find anything up with it, ultrasonically cleaned the gauze (nothing came out), put it back together, and then over two washes it came back to life - I can't explain it, maybe an air lock or something ?

I also store pre mixed solution in the bottles with no issues. I have two bottles to minimise how often I need to get the neat solution bottle out to mix it. I use a funnel and a tape line on my bottle so I don't have to wash my funnel and measure the concentration each time I wash a car.

Having said all the above, you guys now know how good my water is so that may be a factor in the long life / lack of cleaning of my gun / storage of my solution etc.

My bottle only has a small hole, but it's no problem with my hot water bucket filler (a gutted hose end that just gives a straight splash free flow) :

Everything I try to do with my car wash procedure is designed to do it properly (as a priority), but also as quickly and easily as possible (second priority, but still very important when you have a family). Five mins saved on the outdoor hot water bucket filler, five mins saved by not mixing chemicals every time, five mins saved by not cleaning my gun every time etc etc all add up

WD

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[kilobravo]

..it's generally the correct thing to do.

As always, thanks for the in-depth reply, D. Replacing internals of the cannons has never occurred to me but I am most happy to learn that they are completely serviceable. That will make me worry less about them but in fact, it was my Brake Buster bottle and cannon that got me to thinking about the potential corrosive effects in the first place so I'll be curious if you run into any downstream issues.

Whether it is a result of any chemical negatively effecting your cannon or not, having that amazing soft water without question dramatically helps with the quality of your foam. I am SO envious!

 

[kilobravo]

WD: As so often happens, I didn't read all the posts before replying to Deyon and only then did I see your response. Amigo, you are one ingenious fella and while straight forward, your plumbing setup is a marvel to see. Right up to Deyon's level of efficiency and engineering. Bravo Zulu!

BTW, I have since mentioned both your water TDS and D's to multiple friends and to a man they were completely astounded. Sometimes, you just get lucky, right? <grin>

 

[Seanuf99]

Thanks all for your tips, advice, and neurosis.
Active pressure washer arrived today. Rain today and tomorrow so cannot try it till Thursday.

I ordered the MTM 22.2 kit on sale for 83.99. Should arrive by the time I can wash. Will try the one that came with the washer to see how it does, then will try the new one.

Btw Adams is 20% off if you sign up for SMS which knocks it down to $60 even.

I just went with the MTM since it seemed the favorite.

Also I looked at Obsessed's pressure washer spreadsheet and it calls for 1.25 orifice which is included with the Mtm and most others I looked at.

 

[ECSIII]

As noted in an earlier comment, I’m still very new to this foam washing process and indeed am continuing to learn. Already, I’ve concluded I was more than a bit penny wise and pound foolish in purchasing a Karcher K3. Had no comprehension of the fact it had such weird proprietary fittings requiring expensive couplers to employ other manufacturers’ accessories. Also, as others have indicated, I despise the Karcher pressure hose.

I acquired a SGS28 gun and PF22.2 cannon kit from Amazon and the requisite fittings for them from Obsessed Garage. Ordered the ¼” x 50’ Flexzilla pressure washer hose from Amazon. The fittings previously obtained from OG provided what was necessary to attach the new hose to the SGS28 gun, but neither OG nor any other USA company I could find had the coupling that would allow attachment to the Karcher output port. Ended up having to use Ebay to order what was needed from China (which I didn’t like doing). Now waiting on delivery of the Chinese part and hoping it will prove to be satisfactory.

Now, I have some new questions for DFB5.0 and others who would like to offer suggestions. What exactly are you using to rinse the foam away (don’t laugh – I said I was new to all this)? In one of the DFB5.0 photos I see the gun being used to rinse, but there’s a small black attachment on the nozzle producing the spray pattern. What is that attachment?

My next question concerns washing the engine compartment with the foam process. Is it done exactly the same as with washing the exterior of the vehicle? Is there anything that should be covered to prevent the foam and rinse from reaching it? What about the “sound proofing” type material on the underside of the hood – should it be avoided (seems if it were saturated there would be a problem getting it to dry)? Is the EGO blower used to dry the engine compartment?

Your input will be greatly appreciated.

 

[MAGS1]

As noted in an earlier comment, I’m still very new to this foam washing process and indeed am continuing to learn. Already, I’ve concluded I was more than a bit penny wise and pound foolish in purchasing a Karcher K3. Had no comprehension of the fact it had such weird proprietary fittings requiring expensive couplers to employ other manufacturers’ accessories. Also, as others have indicated, I despise the Karcher pressure hose.

I acquired a SGS28 gun and PF22.2 cannon kit from Amazon and the requisite fittings for them from Obsessed Garage. Ordered the ¼” x 50’ Flexzilla pressure washer hose from Amazon. The fittings previously obtained from OG provided what was necessary to attach the new hose to the SGS28 gun, but neither OG nor any other USA company I could find had the coupling that would allow attachment to the Karcher output port. Ended up having to use Ebay to order what was needed from China (which I didn’t like doing). Now waiting on delivery of the Chinese part and hoping it will prove to be satisfactory.

Now, I have some new questions for DFB5.0 and others who would like to offer suggestions. What exactly are you using to rinse the foam away (don’t laugh – I said I was new to all this)? In one of the DFB5.0 photos I see the gun being used to rinse, but there’s a small black attachment on the nozzle producing the spray pattern. What is that attachment?

My next question concerns washing the engine compartment with the foam process. Is it done exactly the same as with washing the exterior of the vehicle? Is there anything that should be covered to prevent the foam and rinse from reaching it? What about the “sound proofing” type material on the underside of the hood – should it be avoided (seems if it were saturated there would be a problem getting it to dry)? Is the EGO blower used to dry the engine compartment?

Your input will be greatly appreciated.

The attachments are spray nozzles that control the spray pattern and pressure of the water coming out. They should have a degree listed on the ends. 40 degree is pretty typical for car washing and more than enough pressure. You can use 25 degree but do not go more aggressive than that. You will damage the paint. I’ll try to snap a pic of mine so you can see where it’s marked

 

[MAGS1]

Here’s my nozzles. If you zoom in you can see the markings on the end. I use the 40 degree for my car, the 15 degree is good for spraying all the salt off my garage floor in the spring. The black one is for soap if your pressure washer has a soap compartment attached to it (mine does but I don’t use it). That tip works well for filling the buckets with water at low pressure

 

[ECSIII]

Where do you obtain these type nozzles for a SGS28 Spray Gun?

 

[Evolvd]

As noted in an earlier comment, I’m still very new to this foam washing process and indeed am continuing to learn. Already, I’ve concluded I was more than a bit penny wise and pound foolish in purchasing a Karcher K3. Had no comprehension of the fact it had such weird proprietary fittings requiring expensive couplers to employ other manufacturers’ accessories. Also, as others have indicated, I despise the Karcher pressure hose.

I acquired a SGS28 gun and PF22.2 cannon kit from Amazon and the requisite fittings for them from Obsessed Garage. Ordered the ¼” x 50’ Flexzilla pressure washer hose from Amazon. The fittings previously obtained from OG provided what was necessary to attach the new hose to the SGS28 gun, but neither OG nor any other USA company I could find had the coupling that would allow attachment to the Karcher output port. Ended up having to use Ebay to order what was needed from China (which I didn’t like doing). Now waiting on delivery of the Chinese part and hoping it will prove to be satisfactory.

Now, I have some new questions for DFB5.0 and others who would like to offer suggestions. What exactly are you using to rinse the foam away (don’t laugh – I said I was new to all this)? In one of the DFB5.0 photos I see the gun being used to rinse, but there’s a small black attachment on the nozzle producing the spray pattern. What is that attachment?

My next question concerns washing the engine compartment with the foam process. Is it done exactly the same as with washing the exterior of the vehicle? Is there anything that should be covered to prevent the foam and rinse from reaching it? What about the “sound proofing” type material on the underside of the hood – should it be avoided (seems if it were saturated there would be a problem getting it to dry)? Is the EGO blower used to dry the engine compartment?

Your input will be greatly appreciated.

I use the OG 40 degree nozzle and it’s much better than the cheap snap-in ones that come with most washers. Those have a “hot spot” pattern at the outer edges where there is more pressure and less pressure in the middle. The OG nozzles have a much more even pressure across the entire fan pattern of water. Plus they have a nice rubber shroud that encapsulates the nozzle to prevent any dings should your accidentally bump your paint.
As for engine, I would not use the pressure washer at all. It would be too easy to force water into electrical connections even if they are IP rated. Spot treatment works best and if you have extreme road grime there are solvents that can be used or even steam cleaning.

 

[Evolvd]

Where do you obtain these type nozzles for a SGS28 Spray Gun?

Obsessed Garage. Make sure you match the nozzle orifice to your pressure washer.

https://www.obsessedgarage.com/coll...les/products/og-spec-mosmatic-nozzle-assembly

 

[DFB5.0]

Now, I have some new questions for DFB5.0 and others who would like to offer suggestions. What exactly are you using to rinse the foam away (don’t laugh – I said I was new to all this)? In one of the DFB5.0 photos I see the gun being used to rinse, but there’s a small black attachment on the nozzle producing the spray pattern. What is that attachment?

Your input will be greatly appreciated.

Firstly, well done on the upgrades, it will take a lot of the hassle out of using a pressure washer and improve the user experience massively. I will answer your two questions in separate posts, starting with nozzles.

The SGS 28 (and other aftermarket "stubby" guns) does not come with an integrated sprayer nozzle. This is intentional as it gives you options.

For example, it allows you to choose the angle of the nozzle. For car washing, stick with 40 and 25 degree tips. I find the 25 degree tip is better suited to wheels and the 40 degree tip for washing the body. In other words, buy both!

In short gun configuration, and fitted with a 25 degree tip, this is the ideal setup for cleaning wheels.

Secondly, it allows you to fit a wand. This is mainly desirable on larger and taller vehicles. I don't always use the wand for rinsing, just depends on the car I'm washing. (The wand and stubby gun have the same outlet fitting, so you interchange the nozzle between the two.)

OG Spec Stainless Steel Bent Wand | Mosmatic | Obsessed Garage

It also allows you to fit your foam cannon easily -

There are two main types of nozzles used on stubby guns and wands. The most affordable are the plastic winged tips, white for 40 degree and green for 25 degree -

Stainless Steel 1/4" Nozzle 4 Pack | Pressure Washer | Obsessed Garage

The second type are the rubber shrouded tips, offering a layer of protection between the metal nozzle and the paint of your car. (Accidents happen, these help mitigate this).

Mosmatic Stainless Nozzle Assembly | Pressure Washer Tip | Obsessed Garage Store
MTM Hydro - Acqualine Nozzle Guard | The Rag Company

From what I have observed, these nozzles offer a more defined spray pattern and have higher quality connections. We are only talking minute differences here though.

Also, as mentioned, you need to match the nozzle orifice to your specific pressure washer, this is for optimizing the flow rate while also being friendly to your machine. For a Karcher K3, you need the 3.0 size.

The Pressure Washer Spreadsheet (shopify.com)

I would like to point out that I tend to link people to Obsessed Garage because he did ALL the legwork on tailoring pressure washers for car washing by purchasing, testing and rating hundreds of machines. If you think about the huge cost that would have been, where possible I think it's appropriate to "honor the source".

 

[DFB5.0]

My next question concerns washing the engine compartment with the foam process. Is it done exactly the same as with washing the exterior of the vehicle? Is there anything that should be covered to prevent the foam and rinse from reaching it? What about the “sound proofing” type material on the underside of the hood – should it be avoided (seems if it were saturated there would be a problem getting it to dry)? Is the EGO blower used to dry the engine compartment?

Your input will be greatly appreciated.

I was once a FIRM believer of not using any form of water to wash an engine bay. Only when I was confronted with the need to do so (don't ask), did I realize it's completely fine............with appropriate caution.

Below was an extreme case of washing, using a foam cannon to soak the engine bay. I did however cover the battery and pod air filter with a plastic bag beforehand. (A towel placed on top of the bags will weight them down and prevent the bag being dislodged by the flow of water.)

In most cases, you are really only using the pressure washer to rinse off the dust, and then removing any cleaning agent you may have used. In general, don't focus on one spot for too long and cover any sensitive areas like the battery, alternator, open air filter ect.

Once you are finished, you can then use your leaf blower or compressed air to remove any standing water. Run the engine for 10 minutes to speed up the drying process if needed.

I have done this process a number of times without issue. On modern cars, this process is safe provided you cover anything sensitive and observe appropriate care with where and for how long you aim the hose.

 

[WD Pro]

@DFB5.0 - The battery will be fine with a careful power wash

Just don’t go mad on the vent area and if you use degreaser and / or concentrate your jet on the terminals, just be sure to renew any anti corrosion grease that you may remove

This isn’t really an issue on a mustang though, unless you are removing the cover as part of the wash process

WD

 

[Evolvd]

Great write ups as usual @DFB5.0! Personally I’ve never had to wash my engine bay, I’m pretty meticulous about doing regular dusting and wiping down parts under the hood. As with paint, consistent maintenance often negates the use of heavy cleaning. I find that if I foam my car up once for every 5 days of driving it, or after driving in rain, I don’t need to use a 2 bucket wash at all. In two years of ownership I’ve bucket washed my Shelby twice.

 

[ECSIII]

DFB5.0, fantastic and well-presented information, as always. Thank you. Per your recommendations I've ordered the following from Obsessed Garage:

Mosmatic Stainless Nozzle Assembly | Pressure Washer Tip | Obsessed Garage Store (40 and 25 with 3.0)

OG Spec Stainless Steel Bent Wand | Mosmatic | Obsessed Garage (20")

I probably ought to explain my interest in washing the engine compartment was particularly piqued as a result of two recent day trips, one to Ocean Isle Beach, NC and the other to North Myrtle Beach, SC with each being about 3 ½ hours one way. They were prompted by unseasonably beautiful weather with bright sunshine and 80+ degree F temperatures. They were great excursions with the top down , nice meals and a few hours soaking up the sun on the beach. But, to the point at hand, after the two trips I was horrified to find everything in the engine compartment was covered with varying degrees of yellow pollen – never seen anything like that. Definitely could not reach all the dusty parts to clean them by hand. So indeed I was interested in a good method for washing away the pollen and appreciate the observations shared here in that respect.

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