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MAP

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Hi All,

I'm looking to start piecing together a suspension setup that can be used for both daily driving and "spirited drives" and wondering if anyone could weigh in. My starting point is whatever is stock on a 2018 PP1 without magneride.

I'm thinking Ford track suspension with the steeda stop-the-hop kit to start with.

I guess my main issue is I don't know exactly what I'm getting from both. Am I overlapping any pieces and buying extra by just buying both these kits rather than purchasing individually?

Does anyone know about how much it costs to get each of these installed, ballpark? Trying to plan for Christmas time.

Any further suggestions in lieu of either of these kits? I'm trying to primarily get rid of some wheel gap and improve on that "floating" feeling going through turns sometimes.
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shogun32

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FWIW read my thread. But yes the FIRST step is align the IRS, replace/augment chassis bushings and brace it. The Ford Track dampers are a good, safe choice as are the Bilstein B6 series when mated to approximately stock (or Track kit) spring rates.

If you want more, get the Steeda Pro-Actions *adjustable* shocks (I suggest the coil-over version) and equip with straight-rate springs and EIbach bumpers.
 

NightmareMoon

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Good shocks (Ford Track or Bilsteins), front swaybar, and the springs of your choosing but recommend some that are minimal drop. Going too low just makes everything worse.

Slight lowering paired with aggressive wheel offsets will fix the visual wheel gap without slamming the car which destroys the ride and handling too.

if you want to do some stop the hop, thats fine, but it doesn’t take a lot to make an improvement. Don’t over spend on stop the hop parts.
 

shogun32

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Dave2013M3

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I think you are on the right direction. I am running the Ford Racing Track kit and this is an excellent well thought out kit even if you don't do the Steeda alignment. My 2020 PP1 car with the Ford Racing Track kit has very little axle hop, I do plan on doing some items to it in the future.

One thing you didn't mention is wheels and tires. Going to a more aggressive wheel and tire setup is a huge plus for these cars. A 3800lb car with just 255s up front is not the recipe for outstanding handling. You don't have to go to expensive either. A set of SVE wheels run around $1k, they are wider, lighter with a more aggressive offset and accommodate wider tires.
 

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MAP

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I think you are on the right direction. I am running the Ford Racing Track kit and this is an excellent well thought out kit even if you don't do the Steeda alignment. My 2020 PP1 car with the Ford Racing Track kit has very little axle hop, I do plan on doing some items to it in the future.

One thing you didn't mention is wheels and tires. Going to a more aggressive wheel and tire setup is a huge plus for these cars. A 3800lb car with just 255s up front is not the recipe for outstanding handling. You don't have to go to expensive either. A set of SVE wheels run around $1k, they are wider, lighter with a more aggressive offset and accommodate wider tires.
I actually JUST put on SVE SP2's (went 19x10 all around with 275/35/19, since 285 /35 is apparently out of stock indefinitely....)

Tires have already made a huge difference I'm just looking for the "next step" so to speak. Also trying to address this wheel gap:

IMG_20211127_102630512_HDR.jpg
 

Dave2013M3

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I actually JUST put on SVE SP2's (went 19x10 all around with 275/35/19, since 285 /35 is apparently out of stock indefinitely....)

Tires have already made a huge difference I'm just looking for the "next step" so to speak. Also trying to address this wheel gap:

IMG_20211127_102630512_HDR.jpg
What tire did you go with? I was able to get 285/35/19 Mich PS4S. I am running 19X11 305/35/19 Mich PSS as they dont' have a 305/35/19 with the 4S.

IMG_20211129_163336235.jpg


IMG_20211129_163402992.jpg
 
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MAP

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What tire did you go with? I was able to get 285/35/19 Mich PS4S. I am running 19X11 305/35/19 Mich PSS as they dont' have a 305/35/19 with the 4S.
I went with AS4's as well. Discount was saying they are back ordered with no estimated ship date. My hometown has got (3) people waiting and they've been in line for a few months now. Unfortunately I needed a tire NOW (blew one driving home and the others were dang near bald) and the 275/35 was available very quickly.

Since this is my daily driver, I had to bite the bullet if I wanted that tire, which is what I was going for.
 

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Hey Sho, what is the install time for these? Would this be a good time to install when the IRS is out of the car for a ring and pinion install?
You don't even need to drop the IRS. You just need to slack the bolts off enough on the other 3 corners to slip them over. If the IRS is on the ground it should take about 30 seconds a corner to put the parts into position. Shove the alignment dowels in there while the bolt(s) is out.
 

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You don't even need to drop the IRS. You just need to slack the bolts off enough on the other 3 corners to slip them over. If the IRS is on the ground it should take about 30 seconds a corner to put the parts into position. Shove the alignment dowels in there while the bolt(s) is out.

Is an alignment required afterwards??
 

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Good shocks (Ford Track or Bilsteins), front swaybar, and the springs of your choosing but recommend some that are minimal drop. Going too low just makes everything worse.

Slight lowering paired with aggressive wheel offsets will fix the visual wheel gap without slamming the car which destroys the ride and handling too.

if you want to do some stop the hop, thats fine, but it doesn’t take a lot to make an improvement. Don’t over spend on stop the hop parts.
I did ONLY the Steeda IRS braces, super easy install and made a world of difference. 90% gone. Not worth it to spend more to get a marginal gain.
 

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Any further suggestions in lieu of either of these kits? I'm trying to primarily get rid of some wheel gap and improve on that "floating" feeling going through turns sometimes.
Good shocks and struts will help you most.

Ridding your car of the OEM PP front swaybar and its (ultimately) faulty bonded bushings will help second most— get a nice adjustable bar.

For springs, you need to decide how much ride quality you’re willing to sacrifice for a low stance and more track oriented handling. Generally, the lower and/or more “track” you go, the rougher the ride. FP Tracks are tried and true, but there are more street friendly versions available if that’s your thing.

If you lower by 1”, absolutely get the Steeda roll center correction arms and bumpsteer kit. Get stiffer arm bushings or go for bearings with the kit to get more feedback and accuracy into the steering.

Lastly, IRS braces alone settled my car down and it breaks-free cleanly on my winter Blizzaks or summer MPS4S. Go for more stop-the-hop items if it suits you, just be very cautious with differential bits due to NVH.

— Mike
 

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I actually JUST put on SVE SP2's (went 19x10 all around with 275/35/19, since 285 /35 is apparently out of stock indefinitely....)

Tires have already made a huge difference I'm just looking for the "next step" so to speak. Also trying to address this wheel gap:

IMG_20211127_102630512_HDR.jpg
Unfortunately your new tire size increased the gap because they are shorter than stock size.
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