Time to replace PP1 rotors, Centric CTEK?

[leroychickencurry]

PP1 is 42k miles now on stock OEM rotors. I've been switching pads between OEM Ferodo DS2500 for track and Z26 PowerStop for daily/spirited drive. The rotors are probably close to replacement time and I think I slightly warped them the last trackday (slight vibration when braking). I don't have a measurement tool so not really sure how many more milimeters I can degrade still.

Any reccommendations on rotors? I have different dedicated track car that used PowerStop Track Day pads and rotors, they glazed and had uneven wear after 1 trackday... so not much trust for me when it comes to PowerStop stuff on the track. Now I've been running the Centric Premium blanks on that car and they've held up.

If I'm using this Mustang for mostly daily/spirited driving, and 1-2 occasional track days, ya'll have any rotor recommendations? Centric CTEK seems to be a very cheap option, anyone used those long-term? Don't really care if blanks, drilled, or slotted, as long as it doesn't degrade performance or crack. Just want a budget-friendly and reliable rotor.

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[SHOdaddy68]

I went with Raybestos blank replacements on my 2015 PP. Mostly street and occasional track use. No complaints.

FWIW, I'll never run a drilled rotor on track. Too much chance of cracking and coming apart.

 

[TopJimmyCooks]

I’d go OEM again in that situation.

 

[GTP]

I have done what you are doing. I even swapped rotors between street and track.
Raybestos coated or OEM rotors is my recommendation. Whatever you do, just get plain rotors.

You might want to put on the new rotors and some track pads, and then drive daily on that setup for a while. Or go through the bed-in procedure if you're into that. (I'm not.) That way your "base" material will be the track pads right onto the new rotors.

You can keep using your current rotors until you see the micro cracks building up.

 

[Optimum Performance]

Non OEM rotors metallurgy does not play well with any track pads and the heat generated. There is a reason they are cheaper.

 

[Ewheels]

PP1 is 42k miles now on stock OEM rotors. I've been switching pads between OEM Ferodo DS2500 for track and Z26 PowerStop for daily/spirited drive. The rotors are probably close to replacement time and I think I slightly warped them the last trackday (slight vibration when braking). I don't have a measurement tool so not really sure how many more milimeters I can degrade still.

Any reccommendations on rotors? I have different dedicated track car that used PowerStop Track Day pads and rotors, they glazed and had uneven wear after 1 trackday... so not much trust for me when it comes to PowerStop stuff on the track. Now I've been running the Centric Premium blanks on that car and they've held up.

If I'm using this Mustang for mostly daily/spirited driving, and 1-2 occasional track days, ya'll have any rotor recommendations? Centric CTEK seems to be a very cheap option, anyone used those long-term? Don't really care if blanks, drilled, or slotted, as long as it doesn't degrade performance or crack. Just want a budget-friendly and reliable rotor.

I got Centric CTEK to replace my OEM rotors when I first started tracking my car. I can say with 100% certainty DO NOT BUY THEM. I'm sure they're fine for street use but they warped really bad in one track day. If I touched the brakes at all after that, horrible pulsation. They went in the trash after that.

Girodisc is the best you can get but they are pricey.
I personally use DBA T3 4000 rotors from KNS Brakes. Fair price, last a long time, hold up to track abuse.

 

[TopJimmyCooks]

I got Centric CTEK to replace my OEM rotors when I first started tracking my car. I can say with 100% certainty DO NOT BUY THEM. I'm sure they're fine for street use but they warped really bad in one track day. If I touched the brakes at all after that, horrible pulsation. They went in the trash after that.

Girodisc is the best you can get but they are pricey.
I personally use DBA T3 4000 rotors from KNS Brakes. Fair price, last a long time, hold up to track abuse.

So I wasn't the only one. I got some when in a jam once, and they were toast after 2 days.

 

[leroychickencurry]

Gotcha, i'll buy the OEM rotors. Anyone know the difference between the Motorcraft model and the OEM model?

For front rotors, the OEM model is KR3Z-1125-G right, what brand is that? and the Motorcraft one on RockAuto is MOTORCRAFT BRRF439. I thought Motorcraft was OEM...but they seem to have different prices online as well.

What is the difference between KR3Z-1125-G and OE replacement BRRF439

RockAuto Motorcraft: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11174121&cc=3444743&pt=1896&jsn=4301

Levitown OEM: https://www.levittownfordparts.com/sku/kr3z-1125-g.html

 

[86pagt]

I have done what you are doing. I even swapped rotors between street and track.
Raybestos coated or OEM rotors is my recommendation. Whatever you do, just get plain rotors.

You might want to put on the new rotors and some track pads, and then drive daily on that setup for a while. Or go through the bed-in procedure if you're into that. (I'm not.) That way your "base" material will be the track pads right onto the new rotors.

You can keep using your current rotors until you see the micro cracks building up.

I pretty sure I purchased the Raybestos coated rotors from you with the Z23 pads… it was a perfect setup for the street.. Highly recommend that setup..

 

[Optimum Performance]

Same part

 

[NightmareMoon]

yeah usually the motorcraft and the OEM part numbers are the same price and the same part.

Agree with doing OEM replacement rotors.

If you just got some vibration after a track day, that's usually explained by OPR (other people's rubber) on your tires, and not brake issues.

If your rotors measure on an a caliper to less than the replacement thickness then replace 'em, or if they have cracks through to the edge. However even some spotty markings from ABS aren't really a concern. '90 % of the time a little vibration after a track day isn't rotors is just balance on the tires and the rubber they pick up, but YMMV

 

[leroychickencurry]

yeah usually the motorcraft and the OEM part numbers are the same price and the same part.

Agree with doing OEM replacement rotors.

If you just got some vibration after a track day, that's usually explained by OPR (other people's rubber) on your tires, and not brake issues.

If your rotors measure on an a caliper to less than the replacement thickness then replace 'em, or if they have cracks through to the edge. However even some spotty markings from ABS aren't really a concern. '90 % of the time a little vibration after a track day isn't rotors is just balance on the tires and the rubber they pick up, but YMMV

Yeah that is a good point! I was driving with Pilot Sport 4 All Seasons and definently did a little melting of my own rubber with other people's rubber. But the vibrations is most pronounced when braking, not so much when driving. I remember in my other track car when I tracked with cheap all seasons (came with used wheels, I wanted to use them up), they got completely melted and the drive home was very bumpy

I prob should get a tool to measure rotors anyways...

 

[leroychickencurry]

Same part

What website did you use to find this? Seems pretty handy, I'd like to bookmark it for future references

 

[Optimum Performance]

What website did you use to find this? Seems pretty handy, I'd like to bookmark it for future references

A subscription service we use. You can always cross check on Ford.com, Levittown, Tasca etc.

https://www.tascaparts.com/search?search_str=Brrf+439

 

[NightmareMoon]

Yeah that is a good point! I was driving with Pilot Sport 4 All Seasons and definently did a little melting of my own rubber with other people's rubber. But the vibrations is most pronounced when braking, not so much when driving. I remember in my other track car when I tracked with cheap all seasons (came with used wheels, I wanted to use them up), they got completely melted and the drive home was very bumpy

I prob should get a tool to measure rotors anyways...

Sounds normal for a track day. Tires can literally shift around the wheel under accel and hard braking at track days which is hell for wheel and tire balance. If there is no vibration when you’re not braking and depending on how the rotors look, then maybe the rotors, but know that rotor issues with stock Brembo rotors are unusual.

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