PMAS new heat shield design

[grabber yote]

I ordered mine from CJ as well. Eventually I also want to go with a higher flowing grill and mishimoto radiator. Lund also says that the temps with the PMAS are not a concern. I’ve read that timing isn’t pulled until IAT’s rise above 150 and E85 also helps my car. Once I install the 17 t-stat I’m going to have Lund look at my datalogs.

Yeah mine should be delivered on next Wednesday. I went with CJ because they had free shipping lol I am cheap. I was thinking at first because Sighlense has a performance pack and they come with bigger radiators and oil coolers but then you have the PP model 2. Thermostat should hold down the engine heat and when I do the big mouth later that should increase the air flow inside. My tuner said he is not concerned with the IAT's unless I was FI which I couldn't use that intake anyway or if we were doing an aggressive track tune. He is going to go over a second set of logs just for my piece of mine though any way just to make sure.

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[grabber yote]

One thing I noticed today was that my temps do drop faster now with the few changes I made. I also noticed that the opening where the snorkel mounts to the grill only has half of the honeycomb open. Opening all of them should help.

For what it's worth, mine was running a little higher today even though it was another 80 degree day. About 93 while moving and 128 in the city. Came out of lowe's and when i went to start it the temp was 140. Quickly dropped into the 90's about 2 miles down the road. Can't dwell on it. If i was a city dweller i wouldn't be running PMAS.

 

[HardWork]

I actually purchased mine with the plan of the aluminum MAF and bigger box and was surprised that I got what I got... just put it on last week...

When did this change occur?

BeefCake told me it changed months ago few months ago. If I would have known I would have went with the JLT and paid the extra 45 bucks. Not blaming them its just I had no idea PMAS had butchered the heat shield. The plastic I am not sure if its the issue or the open face that just sit directly in the heat and just gets soaked.

 

[HardWork]

Gonna try one more thing before I change intakes. I just ordered a Riesche 170 thermostat.

Mine came in today was Shocked wasn't looking for it was certain it would be next week. Now I got to start reading how to get it installed lol.

 

[Sighlense]

My IAT was reading 172 while sitting at the tank waiting for the FF tune to learn the fuel. Already down to 110 a mile down the road when i hit the on ramp.

Also, there is a nice Oxford White JLT for sale over in the Classies.

 

[HardWork]

My IAT was reading 172 while sitting at the tank waiting for the FF tune to learn the fuel. Already down to 110 a mile down the road when i hit the on ramp.

Also, there is a nice Oxford White JLT for sale over in the Classies.

I am going to hang tuff for now see how it plays out with the intake. I probably use my dremel and open up the closed honey cones and install the thermostat. The thermostat is right under the PMAS right under the tube on a y connector? So it should be the bolts that point down to the driver side fender that I need to take out? Asking because there is literally no install pictures on here that I can find. You said you should of just used a hose clamp? On what hos do you clamp to keep from draining the whole radiator?

 

[Sighlense]

I am going to hang tuff for now see how it plays out with the intake. I probably use my dremel and open up the closed honey cones and install the thermostat. The thermostat is right under the PMAS right under the tube on a y connector? So it should be the bolts that point down to the driver side fender that I need to take out? Asking because there is literally no install pictures on here that I can find. You said you should of just used a hose clamp? On what hos do you clamp to keep from draining the whole radiator?

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68225&highlight=thermostat

If you have a hose clamp (i don't) you can have someone clamp up the hose while you catch the fluid with zip lock bag and change out the thermostat. Would be a lot quicker and less messy. Like i said, i stuffed some old towels down in there and did it myself. Made a little bit of a mess but it wasn't bad at all. Took me all of 30 minutes.

 

[HardWork]

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68225&highlight=thermostat

If you have a hose clamp (i don't) you can have someone clamp up the hose while you catch the fluid with zip lock bag and change out the thermostat. Would be a lot quicker and less messy. Like i said, i stuffed some old towels down in there and did it myself. Made a little bit of a mess but it wasn't bad at all. Took me all of 30 minutes.

Ok I will pick up a set of fluid clamps tomorrow they are only like 10 bucks. I should be able to clamp the hose before I even unbolt it right? I just need to clamp the hose that is connected to the Thermostat. How much liquid comes out the thermostat housing Because its just going to be me doing it lol. Thanks for your help by the way.

 

[Sighlense]

Ok I will pick up a set of fluid clamps tomorrow they are only like 10 bucks. I should be able to clamp the hose before I even unbolt it right? I just need to clamp the hose that is connected to the Thermostat. How much liquid comes out the thermostat housing Because its just going to be me doing it lol. Thanks for your help by the way.

Yes, take the top off the expansion tank to depressurize so as to clamp it. More coolant comes from the hose than does the housing(if i remember correctly). Take your time and it should be a nice clean swap. I'd still tuck some towels down there so you don't get anything on your belts. Let it run a little first to warm the hose up a tad for easy squeeze.

 

[HardWork]

Yes, take the top off the expansion tank to depressurize so as to clamp it. More coolant comes from the hose than does the housing(if i remember correctly). Take your time and it should be a nice clean swap. I'd still tuck some towels down there so you don't get anything on your belts. Let it run a little first to warm the hose up a tad for easy squeeze.

Grabbed the hose clamps they were cheap 7 bucks and some more coolant. Decided to install my sto n Go for my front License plate. Then I went to knock out the t-stat. Got the PMAS pulled off and got the hose clamped down in 2 min. Got ready to take off the housing and my ratchet set was to long :doh: no space with the fan I will grab a shorty tomorrow. I was looking at the other side of the thermostat I feel like I need to clamp both sides lol. I think the coolant flows from driver side to passenger side though

 

[HardWork]

Makes a big difference. My CHT's never get above 190.

To early to tell but the Thermostat seems to be doing the trick. I got it installed lost a lot of coolant but I did use clamps and a towel to keep the mess to a minimal I knew I should have clamped both sides lol. I went to a T-ball game earlier and when I got home IAT's were 118 and CHT's were 205 which is normal I have a base with the regular radiator oh and its only 70 degrees in Cali today weird weather. Let the car cool and changed out the t-stat made sure I had no leaks. Took the car on a stretch by my house. About 1 mile long. Ripped down it twice. Notice when I stopped IAT's would drop more consistently then before. IAT's would go to 100 when stopped but would drop quickly when moving they wouldn't do the before. After ripping it twice. CHT's stayed at around 190 when not moving but would go to about 188 when driving. When I got home I checked again for Leaks and I was good to go. Engine was super cool and the PMAS was barely warm when before it would be burning up and seemed to stay heat soaked. So so far so good I will test more when we heat up again next week. As long as the IAT's drop like they suppose to when moving I am good. Not to be repetitive but before that was not the case they would barely drop unless I am on the freeway doing over 65. I will keep posted next week we should be back in the 90's

 

[Sighlense]

To early to tell but the Thermostat seems to be doing the trick. I got it installed lost a lot of coolant but I did use clamps and a towel to keep the mess to a minimal I knew I should have clamped both sides lol. I went to a T-ball game earlier and when I got home IAT's were 118 and CHT's were 205 which is normal I have a base with the regular radiator oh and its only 70 degrees in Cali today weird weather. Let the car cool and changed out the t-stat made sure I had no leaks. Took the car on a stretch by my house. About 1 mile long. Ripped down it twice. Notice when I stopped IAT's would drop more consistently then before. IAT's would go to 100 when stopped but would drop quickly when moving they wouldn't do the before. After ripping it twice. CHT's stayed at around 190 when not moving but would go to about 188 when driving. When I got home I checked again for Leaks and I was good to go. Engine was super cool and the PMAS was barely warm when before it would be burning up and seemed to stay heat soaked. So so far so good I will test more when we heat up again next week. As long as the IAT's drop like they suppose to when moving I am good. Not to be repetitive but before that was not the case they would barely drop unless I am on the freeway doing over 65. I will keep posted next week we should be back in the 90's

:clap2: it really is a great intake. Hope it all works out for you.

 

[grabber yote]

I got my 170 T-Stat delivered today. After mother’s day festivities I’m going to install it.

 

[HardWork]

I got my 170 T-Stat delivered today. After mother’s day festivities I’m going to install it.

If you need fluid clamps they have them harbor freights for 7 bucks unless you already have them.

 

[grabber yote]

Awesome, thanks.. looks like I’m going to
Harbor freight. Lol

If you need fluid clamps they have them harbor freights for 7 bucks unless you already have them.

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