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Broken heat shield on driveshaft.

Free Spirit

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Should I even attempt to fix this? During my thermal exhaust install i broke this piece off (yes im an idiot and used a string though it to support the midpipe of the exhaust I didn't realize it was held on by basically nothing). Should I leave it off and forget about it, open up the holes so it can slide over those pins and put some in weld in-between the 2 pieces? I don't want to remove the exhaust which kind of rules out drilling those pins and adding a bolt. Is this piece even that important? Thanks in advance for the help!
Ps I love the thermal system. Makes a catless exhaust almost as quiet as a stock catted exhaust.
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Snakebyte

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Should I even attempt to fix this? During my thermal exhaust install i broke this piece off (yes im an idiot and used a string though it to support the midpipe of the exhaust I didn't realize it was held on by basically nothing). Should I leave it off and forget about it, open up the holes so it can slide over those pins and put some in weld in-between the 2 pieces? I don't want to remove the exhaust which kind of rules out drilling those pins and adding a bolt. Is this piece even that important? Thanks in advance for the help!
Ps I love the thermal system. Makes a catless exhaust almost as quiet as a stock catted exhaust.
I'm not intimately familiar with the assembly, but here's a thought....Is it possible to drill holes and install a fastener through the mating pieces?
 
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Free Spirit

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Possibly, do you think I'm fine for the time being? I've already driven like this for a bit. I wouldn't get around to fixing it either next weekend (but prolly not since I have family over) so maybe 2 weeks, couple hundred miles?
 

Snakebyte

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Possibly, do you think I'm fine for the time being? I've already driven like this for a bit. I wouldn't get around to fixing it either next weekend (but prolly not since I have family over) so maybe 2 weeks, couple hundred miles?
I really don't know. It may depend on the turbulence. If it is a rear attachment of the shield you may be okay. If it is a front attachment point, then turbulence may be more of an issue. Maybe test-driving once at speeds you expect to drive until you think you'll have time may give you the answer. I'd listen for potentially related noises, and after the drive, check to see if there are witness marks of contact after your drive.
 
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Free Spirit

Free Spirit

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I really don't know. It may depend on the turbulence. If it is a rear attachment of the shield you may be okay. If it is a front attachment point, then turbulence may be more of an issue. Maybe test-driving once at speeds you expect to drive until you think you'll have time may give you the answer. I'd listen for potentially related noises, and after the drive, check to see if there are witness marks of contact after your drive.
Marks of contact? like from the heat? Also I don't think it affect air turbulence at all it's such a a small piece
 

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Snakebyte

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Abrasion from what?
As I mentioned earlier, I'm not intimately familiar with that specific interface. If I had something loose that potentially would bounce against something like a driveshaft (driveshaft mentioned in the thread title) I wouldn't want to let that happen too much. If turbulence or road irregularities cause significant flopping, let's say at 70+mph, I'd want to keep vehicle speed under 70 until I was able to really fix the issue.
 
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Free Spirit

Free Spirit

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As I mentioned earlier, I'm not intimately familiar with that specific interface. If I had something loose that potentially would bounce against something like a driveshaft (driveshaft mentioned in the thread title) I wouldn't want to let that happen too much. If turbulence or road irregularities cause significant flopping, let's say at 70+mph, I'd want to keep vehicle speed under 70 until I was able to really fix the issue.
I'm super confused, this is a heat shield. It's a thin piece of metal the blocks heat rediating off the exhaust it has no effect on anything contacting each other, driveshaft bouncing etc. it's purely for heat just like the thin heat shielding around the tunnel to stop transmission heat from entering the car
 

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This is to reduce the effect of heat from the exhaust causing damage to the center bearing. I agree with drilling out the rivets and using a bolt / nut combination to secure it. Maybe some high temp locktite on the nut. Actually after looking at it again, I’d find some sort or self tap screw and just run it in there.
 

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Free Spirit

Free Spirit

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This is to reduce the effect of heat from the exhaust causing damage to the center bearing. I agree with drilling out the rivets and using a bolt / nut combination to secure it. Maybe some high temp locktite on the nut. Actually after looking at it again, I’d find some sort or self tap screw and just run it in there.
Do you think I'm fine for roughly 2 weeks/200 miles as that'll be when I have time to get under the car again, I'll probably flush off those pins or see if I can tap them out and see if the shitty screwdriver 90° angle thing I have is strong enough to run a self tapper. OR Should I just buy a one piece driveshaft. I found a DSS brand new in box for 750$ I just got a drive 100 mile round trip to pick it up, (not that bad and I've done much further for cheaper parts). Or just put the plate back on and run the OEM driveshaft till something major fails.
 

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Do you think I'm fine for roughly 2 weeks/200 miles as that'll be when I have time to get under the car again, I'll probably flush off those pins or see if I can tap them out and see if the shitty screwdriver 90° angle thing I have is strong enough to run a self tapper. OR Should I just buy a one piece driveshaft. I found a DSS brand new in box for 750$ I just got a drive 100 mile round trip to pick it up, (not that bad and I've done much further for cheaper parts). Or just put the plate back on and run the OEM driveshaft till something major fails.
If only we could accurately predict the future. It really probably depends on how hot it gets and for how long. 200 miles is better than never. Drive easily in a cooler climate and it will probably be just fine. Beat the snot out of it in Death Valley, and it probably cooks. Your mileage may vary. And I will never tell someone how to spend their money.
 
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Free Spirit

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If only we could accurately predict the future. It really probably depends on how hot it gets and for how long. 200 miles is better than never. Drive easily in a cooler climate and it will probably be just fine. Beat the snot out of it in Death Valley, and it probably cooks. Your mileage may vary. And I will never tell someone how to spend their money.
I'm just wondering if a one piece would be a good idea for long term. Car has issues but I'm over 40k deep in repairs on a car worth 18 so I'll be keeping the car till it dies. It's 61k miles now if I can save up ill boost if around 100k hopefully. I figure a 1 piece reliability wise is better but I'm not sure how often they joint fails on stock driveshafts but it's not something I'd want to replace twice.
 

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I'm just wondering if a one piece would be a good idea for long term. Car has issues but I'm over 40k deep in repairs on a car worth 18 so I'll be keeping the car till it dies. It's 61k miles now if I can save up ill boost if around 100k hopefully. I figure a 1 piece reliability wise is better but I'm not sure how often they joint fails on stock driveshafts but it's not something I'd want to replace twice.
I've read on this site, several disenchanted one-piece drive shaft customers. You would do well to research carefully before going that route.
 
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Free Spirit

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I've read on this site, several disenchanted one-piece drive shaft customers. You would do well to research carefully before going that route.
Really? Besides vibration at 70-80mph I haven't seen a single complain on the forums here. Just great things about how it removes the clunking.
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