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Mach VII
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- Joined
- Mar 22, 2017
- Threads
- 15
- Messages
- 1,136
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- 2,636
- Location
- Berkshire Hills, MA
- First Name
- John
- Vehicle(s)
- 2019 Mustang GT 401A, 1989 Lincoln Mk VII LSC
It's light - 11 lbs I believe mine weighed and it's cheap. It does work, just not as well as a heavier more expensive part can.
- Banned
- #49
He's right. This is why warranties in general are shit. How are you going to fight a massive company? You're not.
Any wager a car company is willing to take, I'm willing to take from them. You don't get to take thousands of dollars for selling me an extended warranty and then use that money to weasel out of the responsibility of honoring it. So, I bought no warranty and I'll deal with the whatever happens on my own.
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- Banned
- #51
It's a problem for everyone. Many people just don't realize it.
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Buldawg76
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- Joined
- Jan 11, 2022
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- 3
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- 1,312
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- 1,174
- Location
- Alabama,USA
- First Name
- Mike
- Vehicle(s)
- 2020 Ecoboost Premium, 76 FXE shovel, 77 KZ1000
It's all because of the bean counters. They decide on how much is spent on parts used in manufacturing.
The factory IC is barely adequate in 80 degrees and below and certainly not worth a darn above 80 to 100+ degrees.
If you do not monitor your intake air temps both before turbo and after you have no idea of just how hot the incoming air charge gets going onto the intake after coming out of the turbo and passing thru the factory IC that really does very little to cool the hot air charge.
I have seen intake air temp going onto the intake of as high as 160+ degrees in traffic on a 98/100-degree ambient air temp day here in the south.
Just my 2 cents worth. I would rather know I am keeping the temps as low as possible rather than have my car in a dealer for months getting fixed because the stock IC caused an engine failure from excessive intake temps.
My local dealer has a 4 to 6 week waiting time for any service work regardless of if it's under warranty or not. I am not willing to go without my car that long.
BD
Buldawg76
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2022
- Threads
- 3
- Messages
- 1,312
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- 1,174
- Location
- Alabama,USA
- First Name
- Mike
- Vehicle(s)
- 2020 Ecoboost Premium, 76 FXE shovel, 77 KZ1000
I am monitoring both IAT 1 which is from the sensor in the air box lid that you see on the dash also plus IAT 2 which is from the MAPT (manifold absolute pressure and temperature) sensor that in the top middle of the intake manifold which is the temp of the air inside the intake manifold.
Ambient temps are what you see on the sync3 screen or upper left corner of dash center, the temp on the selectable gauge list in center dash is the IAT 1 temp of incoming air into the grill inlet of air box right after it goes thru the filter, so it is not the same as ambient temps and in summer is usually several degrees above ambient temp readouts.
I use the OBDlink MX+ and my iPhone to monitor those sensors as well as many other PCM parameters.
Here in Alabama in ambient of 97 degrees my IAT 1 is generally 4 to 5 degrees above ambient and IAT 2 is about 10 to 15 degrees above the IAT 1 temp if I have not been caught in traffic or at a light for several minutes. Once in traffic or stop lights thru town my IAT 1 and 2 start to creep up to the point of IAT 1 being 110 to 115 degrees and IAT 2 being 120 to 125 degrees. When stopped in traffic such as a wreck on the interstate this past weekend with ambient temps of 97 degrees I saw IAT 1 temps of 140 and IAT 2 temps of 167 degrees idling with the A/C on low.
BD
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