P0135 after LTH install, how to fix?

[revolio_gt]

I have a 2016 GT that I installed LTH on (well, paid someone else to). They came with cats and we used o2 extensions.

I drove it home fine and then did a data log for my tuner later that night, but during my pull, something strange happened and felt like I lost power, sent the log to my tuner and turns out the wideband signal dropped so that indicated there’s an issue with theo2 sensor. I was seeing both P2198 and P0135, but now I’m just seeing P0135, specifically “o2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 1”. I sent the car back to the LTH installer to see it any Wires burnt through, but he said nope they look fine.

My tuner is also reporting that the trims aren’t moving either, and my air fuel ratio is hard stuck at 9.8, doesn’t move at all

what can I do to diagnose and fix this? The initial data log and incident where the wideband signal dropped I was on 93, but I swapped to my E85 tune and the same occurs

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[LOL WUT]

I’d start with swapping out the front O2s.

 

[junits15]

Look at the situation as a whole:

You had headers installed, which requires the removal and replacement of the lambda and O2 sensors. Now you have a code related to your O2 sensor heater.

Best bet is to take a look at those sensors, they are relatively sensitive, if anti-seize gets into the sampling holes it can damage the sensor. If they are handled to aggressively they can break.

If it were me, I'd first check that there is heater circuit voltage present at the connectors, if there is I would just buy two new lambda sensors from ford and call it a day. They are unfortunately not cheap, but they are very important to the function and safety of the motor.

 

[NGOT8R]

Look at the situation as a whole:

You had headers installed, which requires the removal and replacement of the lambda and O2 sensors. Now you have a code related to your O2 sensor heater.

Best bet is to take a look at those sensors, they are relatively sensitive, if anti-seize gets into the sampling holes it can damage the sensor. If they are handled to aggressively they can break.

If it were me, I'd first check that there is heater circuit voltage present at the connectors, if there is I would just buy two new lambda sensors from ford and call it a day. They are unfortunately not cheap, but they are very important to the function and safety of the motor.

^^^This. I bought non OEM sensors a few months ago and the car wouldn’t stay running for more than a couple of seconds. I bought OEM ones and all was well. Apparently, not all O2 sensors are created equal.

 

[Mike Pfeifer]

Look at the situation as a whole:

You had headers installed, which requires the removal and replacement of the lambda and O2 sensors. Now you have a code related to your O2 sensor heater.

Best bet is to take a look at those sensors, they are relatively sensitive, if anti-seize gets into the sampling holes it can damage the sensor. If they are handled to aggressively they can break.

If it were me, I'd first check that there is heater circuit voltage present at the connectors, if there is I would just buy two new lambda sensors from ford and call it a day. They are unfortunately not cheap, but they are very important to the function and safety of the motor.

Agreed with this. When I first started working on cars, I learned the hard way that I have to be delicate with O2 sensors. It is surprisingly easy to break them. You should be able to measure resistance of the heater circuit, and compare with the other bank that is working ok.

 

[revolio_gt]

Thanks guys, I’ll try that this week. I am Australian though, but I assume ordering new sensors from the US should be fine (in terms of fitment/functionality)? Can’t find any locally

 

[horsepower addiction]

Ok this is a circuit code so it’s ether not connected because of a damaged wire or unplugged or damaged 99% chance damage happened or was caused by the header install. Just get a new 02 sensor and check the wires when you install it. Done

 

[GregO]

Ok this is a circuit code so it’s ether not connected because of a damaged wire or unplugged or damaged 99% chance damage happened or was caused by the header install. Just get a new 02 sensor and check the wires when you install it. Done

@revolio_gt
I’d add, you used O2 extensions.
Change both O2’s to F-150 5.0, the leads are longer so no extensions are needed. Go with OEM, NTK or Bosch.

 

[revolio_gt]

@revolio_gt
I’d add, you used O2 extensions.
Change both O2’s to F-150 5.0, the leads are longer so no extensions are needed. Go with OEM, NTK or Bosch.

Yeah I ordered an NTK 27063 which is an F150 sensor last week so waiting for it to get here from the US. Just got the one though for the side that’s not working, hopefully that does it

fuck sake I’m now just realising NTK 27063 might be for the left side not the right… just ordered NTK 27018 which should be for the right. Guess I’m putting both of them on

 

[GregO]

Yeah I ordered an NTK 27063 which is an F150 sensor last week so waiting for it to get here from the US. Just got the one though for the side that’s not working, hopefully that does it

fuck sake I’m now just realising NTK 27063 might be for the left side not the right… just ordered NTK 27018 which should be for the right. Guess I’m putting both of them on

Buy once, Cry once. Doing both is a good CYA policy.

 

[revolio_gt]

Buy once, Cry once. Doing both is a good CYA policy.

That’s true. Only thing I found weird is that on these F150 sensors, the left side sensor wire is longer than the right? Thought it would be the other way around since the right side on my mustang requires a lot more length. Bought them from rock auto, 27018 says it’s 16.5 in and 27063 says 25 in length, so hopefully still doesn’t require me using my extension

 

[GregO]

That’s true. Only thing I found weird is that on these F150 sensors, the left side sensor wire is longer than the right? Thought it would be the other way around since the right side on my mustang requires a lot more length. Bought them from rock auto, 27018 says it’s 16.5 in and 27063 says 25 in length, so hopefully still doesn’t require me using my extension

Same Wideband O2 element, same receptacle. Just swap F-150 left and right leads to fit your Right hand driven Mustang. Should be that simple.
Don’t use those extension.

 

[revolio_gt]

Same Wideband O2 element, same receptacle. Just swap F-150 left and right leads to fit your Right hand driven Mustang. Should be that simple.
Don’t use those extension.

Alright awesome, wasn’t sure if they were side specific. Thanks for the help lads, I’ll report back when they’re on and everything’s working so I can finish tuning my car. Still using the baseline E85 tune, haven’t managed to get any revisions in

 

[revolio_gt]

Alright well the extension fixed that issue, my air fuel ratio is actually moving now and that code is gone. Now getting codes p0420 and p0430 which I assume are related to having aftermarket cats?

 

[mejohn50]

Alright well the extension fixed that issue, my air fuel ratio is actually moving now and that code is gone. Now getting codes p0420 and p0430 which I assume are related to having aftermarket cats?

P0420 and P0430 are catalyst efficiency codes. 100% due to the aftermarket cats.

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