Woes after header install

[mxdave91]

So I installed a set of long tubes over the weekend, and I ended up with a small leak on the passenger side header. No problem, i'll just order new factory gaskets and I should be a-ok.

I also experienced a pretty good in-cab vibration throughout the rpm range, and ManBearPig, here on the forums, told me that I probably tightened the motor mount brackets up wrong (which he was right), but I re-installed the brackets today the proper way, and I still have a pretty good vibration throughout the rpm range. I checked to see if my exhaust was touching anywhere and it isn't. It's close in a few spots, but not touching.

I also started noticing today that when I close the hood with the car running, the engine slows down and even stalled one time. even if I gently lower the hood and just let it rest on the hood latch without latching it, it still bogs the motor and wants to stall. I looked under the hood with a flashlight and it's not even touching anything when this phenomenon happens. needless to say i'm just about at my wits end:frusty::frusty::frusty::frusty:

Sponsored

 

[SoCalTim]

Something may not be touching at idle, but movement of the motor when under load may cause contact.

I assume the AC line bracket was addressed? Some guys have had knock issues and just removed that bracket all together.

 

[mxdave91]

The a/c line bracket stud was in fact touching a primary, which I noticed during the install, and I just reached up with a hack saw blade and cut the stud off above the nut. It gave me a good 1/4 inch of clearance, and I watched to make sure that it isn't rubbing when the motor is revved.

The vibration is there whether i'm in neutral, accelerating, or decelerating.

 

[SoCalTim]

If you have vibration then you have contact, no other reason for it.

May be prudent to get the car up on a set of ramps, and have a real good look from all angles. If you don't have ramps at home, take it to a good exhaust shop and have them give it a look over on the lift.

 

[ManBearPig]

The engine stalling can't possible have anything to do with motor mounts, exhaust clearance, etc

Could you have damaged the IMRC solenoid or connectors when jacking the engine up? Others have reported damaging these components when jacking the engine too high and the solenoids hit the firewall. These are located at the back of the intake manifold. I'd take the plastic decorative cover off and look around back there.

There are two electrical connectors. I think they're blue. Inspect around that area for unplugged connectors, torn wires, broken plastic bits, etc.

 

[mxdave91]

I read about everybody destroying those connectors, and was careful not to jack the engine that high.

It's almost as though the hood coming in contact with the hood latch is somehow grounding something out. I was also wondering if my computer is still trying to relearn since I had the battery unplugged, and when I close the hood it's restricting enough airflow to mess with the MAF parameters. The only other thing I could think of is maybe I got anti-seize on the O2 sensors, but i'm not sure how that would cause the engine to want to stall when I close the hood. I never got a check engine light, but i'm going to check for codes Friday with my N-guage.

 

[mxdave91]

Ok, so I found the source of the vibration. I have the borla touring cat-back mounted to my headers, and it turns out that the mid resonator was just barely touching the parking brake cable bracket. The resonator is big enough that it doesn't really allow you to see the parking brake cable bracket, which sits directly above the resonator and off to one side. New factory header gasket should be here Friday, so hopefully that will take care of my leak. Now to sort out why the car wants to stall when I close the hood.

Sponsored