Opg install, Whats all required?

[Brn N Rubr]

Awesome. It's going to be quite the weekend....OPG, CG and VMP Gen II-R. I can't wait.

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[dsp4848]

So, has anyone replaced the oil pump bolts due to being TTY? Or just retorque utilizing the original bolts and factory torque specs?

I wondered about this too, really any bolt that had the multi-stage torque spec with an angle involved. There's quite a few of these with the OPG/CS install. One of my coworkers who works on cars said that those were definitely TTY, but I can't find any info anywhere that says that they are. The Ford manual doesn't state to replace them, so I trust their advice. :cheers:

The Ford manual makes sure to tell us to use a new crankshaft pulley bolt and even use new nuts on the strut tower brace (nyloc nuts), so I think if they would detail that, then they would definitely detail critical engine pieces such as oil pump bolts and other timing bolts.

 

[Roh92cp]

I wondered about this too, really any bolt that had the multi-stage torque spec with an angle involved. There's quite a few of these with the OPG/CS install. One of my coworkers who works on cars said that those were definitely TTY, but I can't find any info anywhere that says that they are. The Ford manual doesn't state to replace them, so I trust their advice. :cheers:

The Ford manual makes sure to tell us to use a new crankshaft pulley bolt and even use new nuts on the strut tower brace (nyloc nuts), so I think if they would detail that, then they would definitely detail critical engine pieces such as oil pump bolts and other timing bolts.

Yes the Ford Manual states when bolts need to be replaced TTY and even gives a little trash can symbol.

 

[sonic]

Need help is it possible my cam gears are backwards? Feel stupid asking but the L is on the pass side and R on the driver side the book shows like the crank up 12:00 and the "R" is up top for me it's the "L" up top

 

[Jakebiscamp]

Need help is it possible my cam gears are backwards? Feel stupid asking but the L is on the pass side and R on the driver side the book shows like the crank up 12:00 and the "R" is up top for me it's the "L" up top

Hey sonic, R is passenger side. L is driver side

 

[sonic]

Hey sonic, R is passenger side. L is driver side

I just realized both sides have R and L on opposite ends thanks !

 

[jabrax]

Feel stupid asking

No such thing as "stupid" when doing this :clap2:

 

[db252]

Yeah Sonic, they both have the L and R like you noticed. Sounds like you were just off 180 degrees on the cams. One extra turn of the crank gear should tume you up. Probably already figured that out.

 

[sonic]

got it thanks guys! going back together now I got that one bolt back in thank god

 

[jabrax]

That damn bolt turn out to be easy peasy... two fingers and tape lol

 

[ahl395]

Currently in the process of doing this, everything going smoothly until installing the ATI Balancer.

Heated the ATI hub with a torch, tried to put it on but was rushing and forgot to coat the crank snout in oil. Now it is halfway installed stuck with the back of the hub even with the timing cover. I have a MMR longer install bolt coming tomorrow hoping that will draw it on if i can spray some oil behind it on the crank snout.

 

[Roh92cp]

Currently in the process of doing this, everything going smoothly until installing the ATI Balancer.

Heated the ATI hub with a torch, tried to put it on but was rushing and forgot to coat the crank snout in oil. Now it is halfway installed stuck with the back of the hub even with the timing cover. I have a MMR longer install bolt coming tomorrow hoping that will draw it on if i can spray some oil behind it on the crank snout.

Shit happens, i know did the same thing. I heated the ATI and then went from the stove to crank with only a little silicone ultra black on the keyway. After drawing it 3/4 on like you realized I forgot the oil:frusty: Anyway I kept drawing it on and was able to get it seated and torqued down without damaging thread.
Anyone who did this instal knows the ATI is extra tight interface fit compared to the stock or even the MMR which I have done those as well.

If I was you I would pull it and start over at this point because you have lost your heat as well. If you reheat you will also heat and expand the crank so that won't help. If you insist on continueing you may get a away with it and get it to seat with the instal bolt, but you chance damaging the threads and not getting it to seat.

If you don't pull it and want to go forward, then buy a threaded rod 12mm by 1.5 pitch hardened steel and thread it all the way in and use a good quality nut and washer with lubricant on the threads and nut and washer.
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43122&highlight=ATI+damper

 

[ahl395]

Shit happens, i know did the same thing. I heated the ATI and then went from the stove to crank with only a little silicone ultra black on the keyway. After drawing it 3/4 on like you realized I forgot the oil:frusty: Anyway I kept drawing it on and was able to get it seated and torqued down without damaging thread.
Anyone who did this instal knows the ATI is extra tight interface fit compared to the stock or even the MMR which I have done those as well.

If I was you I would pull it and start over at this point because you have lost your heat as well. If you reheat you will also heat and expand the crank as well so that won't help. If you insist on continueing you may get a away with it and get it to seat with the instal bolt, but you chance damaging the thread and not getting it to seat.

If you don't pull it and want to go forward then buy a threaded rod 12mm by 1.5 pitch hardened steel and thread it all the way in and use a good quality nut and washer with lubricant on the threads and nut and washer.

I would like to pull it and reheat but not sure how I would pull it off. Can't use a regular puller on it like the stock damper and it doesn't move at all by hand. I don't want to risk damaging anything by prying it.

I ordered the MMR install bolt and am hoping that will work. Shopped around today and no one carrier this thread in bolts, I didn't check the threaded rods but it seems to me that it could continue tightening and bottom out inside the crank as you tried to get the balancer on so I would rather not do it that way.

 

[Roh92cp]

A threaded rod with a washer and nut on the end will not continue to turn or tighten in the crank. The nut will turn on the outside saving th crank threads from stress, it's the best method by far. You should never use anything but a damper puller, and on the ATI you need to remove 3 of the longer bolts then thread in the screws of the damper puller to pull it off.

Here is the threaded rod method of installing the damper, as you can see only the nut will turn putting all the load on those threads only.

Here is a standard puller being used to remove and ATI damper.

 

[ahl395]

[MENTION=16819]Roh92cp[/MENTION] Thanks very much for your advice.

I pulled it back off, reheated it, oiled shaft, and stubbornly put it on with the MMR install bolt. Went on buttery smooth and torqued to 100ft/lbs as ARP specs.

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