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Opg install, Whats all required?

Project Whitemare

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I just wanted to thank everyone in here for their contributions to this thread. Very insightful.

I'm tackling my install in the next couple of weeks, so I'll use these tips!
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FIVE_LITER

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Thanks for the info. Yeah, the more I thought about it, the more I thought what a hassle to have to getting back to running condition just to resume the install. Just haven't been there or done that so wasn't entirely sure what backwards steps I'd have to take. Read in the ProCharger instructions it's suggested to go with one step colder plugs, might be the perfect time to pull the plugs out for the turning the crank part. Cool on the room for an impact, thanks.




Thanks for your take on it. Yeah, would be a good feeling of confidence to hear it run before proceeding with the SC install. Just still absorbing what all I have ahead of me.

So here's another question. I know this thead is a "what's needed" and I've been asking "how too" stuff. Sorry just seems like a good time to ask, hope the OP doesn't mind. So...
During the timing procedure it has only one chain installed and the crank gets rotated. Wouldn't this cause the pistons to contact the valves on the disconnected cam side? Couldn't find clear definition on our engines being non-interference design, is it? Or am I missing something?

There is not really a good image showing where to put the silicone on the front timing cover. Mentions there is a gasket, but have read it's more of a big o-ring or rubber strip? If it's o-ring, don't recall ever really coating o-rings with silicone, thought they were always oiled when using them as a seal. Do I coat this "gasket" with silicone?

Thanks again for the replies.
If you follow the timing procedure perfectly no contact will be made.

There's a few spots where you put silicone, you don't do the whole timing cover. The Ford procedure shows you where.
 

DrDing.Muscle

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Mine definitely isint that noticeable, I went with Mmr opg and cg, and its only there when driving but its just barely there. Btw, is that a Vtx?
Sorry I just saw this. The motorcycle is a Suzuki M109R.
 

Bartly

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If you follow the timing procedure perfectly no contact will be made.

There's a few spots where you put silicone, you don't do the whole timing cover. The Ford procedure shows you where.
Gotcha, I went and re-read the FSM and see that you only put drops of silicone/gasket sealant to the seams between the heads and block and block and oil pan. Makes sense. Did you buy the Ford silicone or just use Ultra Black or something bought at Napa?
 

Roh92cp

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Gotcha, I went and re-read the FSM and see that you only put drops of silicone/gasket sealant to the seams between the heads and block and block and oil pan. Makes sense. Did you buy the Ford silicone or just use Ultra Black or something bought at Napa?
I used ultra black twice no problems.
 

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jefc73

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My install went perfectly. Used Ultra black as well. Did initial start up today. First start could here some noise and I think that was due to oil change and the car sitting for like a week and a half. Second start up no strange noise at all. Will get fascia and front wheels on tomorrow and take for a ride. Instructions on first page were very helpful as well. timing went smoothly. :thumbsup:
 
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v8ter

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Sorry I just saw this. The motorcycle is a Suzuki M109R.
Those are nice!!I just sold a blackedout Vtx1800c, got a Yamaha stryker 1300 grey black edition, but I want a Harley Nightrod yet
 

Project Whitemare

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Install was a breeze. Got this done today.

Great tip about poking the bolt through the electrical tape!
 

dubster99

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15dib

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They charge $500 to install them down here in TX. I'm trying to find the courage to install them myself, but I'm iffy on the timing. I'm thinking I rather pay $500 than mess up the engine lol.
 

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PC 2015

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They charge $500 to install them down here in TX. I'm trying to find the courage to install them myself, but I'm iffy on the timing. I'm thinking I rather pay $500 than mess up the engine lol.
Dude that's cheap around Philly they charge 800 to 1000
 

Roh92cp

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They charge $500 to install them down here in TX. I'm trying to find the courage to install them myself, but I'm iffy on the timing. I'm thinking I rather pay $500 than mess up the engine lol.
If you can turn wrenches right and left and read and follow simple directions your qualified. The timing portion is the simplest part, don't be intimidated to try this yourself.
 

TexasGT

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They charge $500 to install them down here in TX. I'm trying to find the courage to install them myself, but I'm iffy on the timing. I'm thinking I rather pay $500 than mess up the engine lol.
Where are you located in Texas?
 

15dib

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I've swapped out motors, trannys, installed headers in my car and cams in my 4.6 s197. All those were easy. The thing I'm more worried is the timing. I'll probably read it a few times then just go for it.

I'm from The dirty south lol.
 

db252

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Timing is disgustingly easy. The directions are short, basic and simplistic. Putting the chains back on, timing is already set on the drivers side at the 5 o'clock position from chain removal and then you put the chain on, guides on, and tensioner on. After that, a 360 degree rotation back to 5 o'clock position and then continue the rotation to 12 o,clock and you're ready to repeat that process for the passenger side.

Drivers side:





Passenger side:





Added the drivers side secondary tensioner mod since I was already as deep as you need to be in doing this job. Very easy to do.





The thing that annoyed me most about doing this project was removing the wire retainers from the back of the valve covers.
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