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Opg install, Whats all required?

Mootang

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You probably bottomed out the longer install bolt in the crank. I used that install bolt just to install the balancer part of the way then I took it out of the crank and installed the Ford bolt and ran the Ford bolt in to run the crank on and then torqued it and called it a day.
Luckily I still have the old bolt and may use to install the rest of the way and then switch over to the ARP bolt or just use the ARP bolt from here on out I guess. Time to start my extraction in a few days... I need to get a long drill bit to get to it now.

Mootang. So sorry. The MMR bolt only installs it half way before the bolt bottoms out and then you switch to the damper bolt that stays with the install.
Well crap... wish I knew that earlier lol :doh:.

Now I know, so looks like I will have a field day extracting the bolt now. Once I can do that, am I safe to use the ARP bolt to install it the rest of the way?
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db252

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Yes, as long as the threads aren't damaged in the crank which they most likely are not but once the mmr bolt is out, check to make sure the ARP threads smoothly. Good luck bud. Makes me sick and I can't imagine how you feel.
 

ahl395

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Oh man, that really sucks.

As others said since the install bolt is longer it will bottom out and you need to switch to the original (shorter) bolt. Trying to get a bolt extractor in there is probably going to be next to impossible. Its far recessed in there and bolt extractors need to be lined up evenly, thats going to be tough... Be really careful not to damage the crank threads and I would run a thread tap through it before installing the new bolt.

Not to add salt to the wound but just informing you that you may have made a hairline crack in the crankshaft bottoming out the bolt and putting that much force/torque on it, I have heard of that happening before. I could be wrong but I believe I have read of that happening.
 

Mootang

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Oh man, that really sucks.

As others said since the install bolt is longer it will bottom out and you need to switch to the original (shorter) bolt. Trying to get a bolt extractor in there is probably going to be next to impossible. Its far recessed in there and bolt extractors need to be lined up evenly, thats going to be tough... Be really careful not to damage the crank threads and I would run a thread tap through it before installing the new bolt.

Not to add salt to the wound but just informing you that you may have made a hairline crack in the crankshaft bottoming out the bolt and putting that much force/torque on it, I have heard of that happening before. I could be wrong but I believe I have read of that happening.
OUCHHHHH, reading the hairline crack thing hurts. I hope that didn't happen tho. Looks like I will need to drill the bolt out and I think I have the correct tap size for the threads to be cleaned up. I don't know know if I want to open the whole thing up to check or should I just be hopeful and run it.

On a greener and more expensive note, if the motor blows, it will be an excuse to get another car lol. Will update everyone once I figure out how to extract that bolt out.
 

ahl395

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OUCHHHHH, reading the hairline crack thing hurts. I hope that didn't happen tho. Looks like I will need to drill the bolt out and I think I have the correct tap size for the threads to be cleaned up. I don't know know if I want to open the whole thing up to check or should I just be hopeful and run it.

On a greener and more expensive note, if the motor blows, it will be an excuse to get another car lol. Will update everyone once I figure out how to extract that bolt out.
Good luck man.
Same attitude I have if my motor blows, it might put me in debt but the silver lining is I can change a pulley and up my horsepower once the motor is rebuilt :D Not that I think that will happen, but just saying lol.

I could be wrong about the hairline crack, maybe someone else can chime in?
 

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This is the shit that happens to me. I have never had, even the simplest install go without some sort of hitch. Glad it isn't me. I have bought every single bold extraction tool that has been invented, and I have yet to be successful. I am A.D.D, so I know that is half of my problem. Man I feel for you. Good luck the rest of the way.
 

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I've removed 2 fooked up bolts like that in the past - drilling, left hand tapping, patience...a lot of patience. Good luck!
 

TooSoonJunior

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I wouldn't go too too crazy on first attempts to remove it, since you had the threads lubed up, there is a decent chance the broken bolt end isn't all that tightly bottomed, I have had luck literally just taking a flat screw driver and applying light pressure and start to unscrew it, and it has come out. Based on how that bolt snapped it doesn't look like there is much at all digging into the threads, looks pretty clean of a break.

If you are going to try drilling and using an EZ out, I strongly recommend removing the damper beforehand, DONT try to do it through the damper. And if you do that, I would try some heat on the crank snout and the screw driver thing first, then the drill and ez out as last resort. I have seen so many guys just go nuts with a drill bit not realizing how hardened steel that install bolt is, drill bit walks and you end up drilling half the threads of the crank out.
 

z06psi

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This is the shit that happens to me. I have never had, even the simplest install go without some sort of hitch. Glad it isn't me. I have bought every single bold extraction tool that has been invented, and I have yet to be successful. I am A.D.D, so I know that is half of my problem. Man I feel for you. Good luck the rest of the way.
:thumbsup::thumbsup:

LS1 - I was tightening the heads studs down and I was on the last one, on the last torque pass, on the hardest one to get too and the stud snapped.

Motor had to come out, get drilled for 1/2 studs, and re-assembled. Added 2 months onto my build.

Amazingly this Coyote hasn't given me any problems like that yet.
 

HISSMAN

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:thumbsup::thumbsup:

LS1 - I was tightening the heads studs down and I was on the last one, on the last torque pass, on the hardest one to get too and the stud snapped.

Motor had to come out, get drilled for 1/2 studs, and re-assembled. Added 2 months onto my build.

Amazingly this Coyote hasn't given me any problems like that yet.
It's stuff like that, that makes me almost want to quit working on cars sometimes.
 

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z06psi

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It's stuff like that, that makes me almost want to quit working on cars sometimes.
Oh hell yes. I am almost done doing shit on jackstands for sure. Lift in my shop will solve a lot of that.
 

Mootang

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This is the shit that happens to me. I have never had, even the simplest install go without some sort of hitch. Glad it isn't me. I have bought every single bold extraction tool that has been invented, and I have yet to be successful. I am A.D.D, so I know that is half of my problem. Man I feel for you. Good luck the rest of the way.
Yea, I figured I will hit some bumps along the install eventually. First it was the oil pickup tube, then spilled some radiator fluid in the oil pan (drained out oil already), now a broken bolt.

I wouldn't go too too crazy on first attempts to remove it, since you had the threads lubed up, there is a decent chance the broken bolt end isn't all that tightly bottomed, I have had luck literally just taking a flat screw driver and applying light pressure and start to unscrew it, and it has come out. Based on how that bolt snapped it doesn't look like there is much at all digging into the threads, looks pretty clean of a break.

If you are going to try drilling and using an EZ out, I strongly recommend removing the damper beforehand, DONT try to do it through the damper. And if you do that, I would try some heat on the crank snout and the screw driver thing first, then the drill and ez out as last resort. I have seen so many guys just go nuts with a drill bit not realizing how hardened steel that install bolt is, drill bit walks and you end up drilling half the threads of the crank out.
I am figuring out if I can get something long enough with an easy out to fit in there first lol. That or try using a punch to make some marks first. I don't want to remove the damper as I have no install bolt anymore lol. May just order one if take the damper out to be safe, hmmmmm.

I hope its a clean break where the threads are not locked up and the remaining bolt will just unscrew easy. Going to the hardware store later to see if I can find something better to get the bolt out.
 

z06psi

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That is my wet dream.
We break ground on our 40x40 shop with a 2 bedroom apartment over the top in April of next year. Then we start in on the 5100 sqft house in front of it.
 

ahl395

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Yea, I figured I will hit some bumps along the install eventually. First it was the oil pickup tube, then spilled some radiator fluid in the oil pan (drained out oil already), now a broken bolt.



I am figuring out if I can get something long enough with an easy out to fit in there first lol. That or try using a punch to make some marks first. I don't want to remove the damper as I have no install bolt anymore lol. May just order one if take the damper out to be safe, hmmmmm.

I hope its a clean break where the threads are not locked up and the remaining bolt will just unscrew easy. Going to the hardware store later to see if I can find something better to get the bolt out.
I would remove the damper and get another install bolt, now that you lost your heat and the damper is expanded and half installed on the crank. Best off removing it and reheating (i suggest a propane torch not just a heat gun) and installing it in one go.

I had a hiccup installing my damper because I had no install bolt initially, no hardware stores around had it, which was how I planned on buying one. I put the damper on by hand after it was heated and it got stuck there. Had to remove it with a puller, overnight the MMR install bolt for $90, reheat, and reinstall. Went on buttery smooth after that. :headbonk:
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