Oil filter

[Decible]

What dang oil filter does this damn car use. Every place I check I get two different answers. Is it the standard GT filter or is it the same one on the 350/500?

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[Hurricane]

The engine is the same as in the GT, save the intake manifold, throttle body and air filter assembly. The oil filter is the same as the GT.

https://www.fram.com/en/elasticsearch/index/display?Application=Car & Truck&Type=Any Type&Year=2022&Make=Ford&Model=Mustang&Engine=5.0L V8

EDIT: If you want the Ford Motorcraft oil filter, it's part number FL-500S. Ford's website says it fits the Mustang from years 2011-2023.

https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/filters/oil-filters/filter-assy-oil-8294559-1?pdp=y

 

[Decible]

The engine is the same as in the GT, save the intake manifold, throttle body and air filter assembly. The oil filter is the same as the GT.

https://www.fram.com/en/elasticsearch/index/display?Application=Car & Truck&Type=Any Type&Year=2022&Make=Ford&Model=Mustang&Engine=5.0L V8

Thank you, I have 3 left for my GT and I was trying to figure out if I needed to sell them. For whatever reason the canister style filter that the 350/500 ran/run came up as well.

 

[Hurricane]

Thank you, I have 3 left for my GT and I was trying to figure out if I needed to sell them. For whatever reason the canister style filter that the 350/500 ran/run came up as well.

No problem. Here's a helpful YouTube video that shows the exact filter on a Mach 1 during its first oil filter change. I just crossed the 1,000 mile mark the other day and will be changing my oil in the next couple weeks.

 

[Decible]

I just hit 100 miles….900 more to go

 

[Skye]

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/CM-6731-FL820

Ford Performance also offers an 800-series filter; it DOES NOT fit on the Mach 1.

Owners have confirmed there is not enough space (width) to clear items close-by.

The Ford 500-series is fine. For Fram, the oil filter part number is "10575" for the 5.0.

 

[Skye]

Here's a helpful YouTube video

I'll be changing mine in a few weeks as well. That's a great prep video. Thank You for posting.

 

[Hurricane]

I just hit 100 miles….900 more to go

What are you waiting for? Get out there and drive!

 

[Decible]

What are you waiting for? Get out there and drive!

Work work work

 

[Skye]

Taking into account life and weather , seemed like the perfect day to perform Skye's initial oil change.

Tips:

1. If you have not done so already, watch the video above.

2. See photo below. LOL. That's pretty much how I expect things to happen. If changing your first time, you cannot be prepared enough. Plastic tarp, rags or t-shirts. Oil drains straight back, not down. Making matters worse, you not only have five quarts of pressure, but 10 bearing down on the drain hole. I can attest: it shoots straight out the back like a hose. I'd originally just let it drip for a bit. Then I bumped the plug. If it gets to be too much, stick your finger in the drain hole. Others have used a cardboard deflector to get it into the pan, but I didn't remember that until it was too late.

3. See the drain pan I was using. It's best not to use a pan like this. The oil is coming out too fast and it does not drain fast enough into the basin. Buy a tub, a big open tub that can hold like 15 quarts.

4. If you have not considered one before, buy a UPR or a Femco drain plug.

https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-for...for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer-bronco/

https://www.femco.com/oil-drain-plug/

Last year, I bought a UPR and stowed it. It's installed now. Next oil change should be easier.

5. You'll notice in the video the owner uses a piece of cardboard to help drain the filter. Great tip. I've also read people use tin foil. Immediately below the oil filter is a rather large bundle of wires. First, I tucked a t-shirt into the area. Then, shaped tin foil. Finally, cardboard. All three worked well. Still messy, but the wiring remained dry and almost all the oil entered the pan. There is a Member here fabricating drain funnels and filter drains.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/psa-i’m-officially-taking-orders-again-for-3d-printed-oil-change-products.183898/

6. Once you're situated, the oil filter is somewhat easily accessible. Hedging, I bought two wrenches previously:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-4568

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-57020?rrec=true

In the video, the gentleman uses a traditional cap type removal tool. I wasn't sure how stuck my filter would be, how much traction I could get. I used the OTC three-finger tool; it worked well. Placing the legs against the filter with one hand, I used a swivel and socket with the other and backed it off. Once I could move it with my hand, I was GTG. I did not use the Lisle wrench. Great tool. I have another vehicle which could use it.

7. Given the angle of attachment, I did not fill the filter all the way. I filled it half full. No issues at startup. Pressure took a second or two to register, and then that was it. Even if you fill the filter full, much of the engine block is still without oil. It will take a moment or two to purge the air and refill.

8. I've been using the Ford Pass App, which has the feature to add service records. Today, I cannot add a service record. I'll continue to try. Most comments I've read have same: some days you can add a service record. Others, not.

https://www.ford.com/support/how-to...orted-features/how-do-i-add-a-service-record/

I took multiple photos, documenting everything, with a notecard (VIN and date). Took screenshots of the Ford App, with mileage and oil life %.

***Edit: The night I made this post, I tried the Pass App again and it worked flawlessly. I added the oil change record, with screenshots and a photo as proof.

9. Finally, probably most important (should have made #1), block time. If you're in a rush or the weather sucks, it might be best to pause and attack later. Making sure you have enough time, especially if the first time doing so, helps remove frustration.

10. Spend the rest of the day test driving.

 

[Coastal-Mach]

Taking into account life and weather , seemed like the perfect day to perform Skye's initial oil change.

Tips:

1. If you have not done so already, watch the video above.

2. See photo below. LOL. That's pretty much how I expect things to happen. If changing your first time, you cannot be prepared enough. Plastic tarp, rags or t-shirts. Oil drains straight back, not down. Making matters worse, you not only have five quarts of pressure, but 10 bearing down on the drain hole. I can attest: it shoots straight out the back like a hose. I'd originally just let it drip for a bit. Then I bumped the plug. If it gets to be too much, stick your finger in the drain hole. Others have used a cardboard deflector to get it into the pan, but I didn't remember that until it was too late.

3. See the drain pan I was using. It's best not to use a pan like this. The oil is coming out too fast and it does not drain fast enough into the basin. Buy a tub, a big open tub that can hold like 15 quarts.

4. If you have not considered one before, buy a UPR or a Femco drain plug.

https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-for...for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer-bronco/

https://www.femco.com/oil-drain-plug/

Last year, I bought a UPR and stowed it. It's installed now. Next oil change should be easier.

5. You'll notice in the video the owner uses a piece of cardboard to help drain the filter. Great tip. I've also read people use tin foil. Immediately below the oil filter is a rather large bundle of wires. First, I tucked a t-shirt into the area. Then, shaped tin foil. Finally, cardboard. All three worked well. Still messy, but the wiring remained dry and almost all the oil entered the pan. There is a Member here fabricating drain funnels and filter drains.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/psa-i’m-officially-taking-orders-again-for-3d-printed-oil-change-products.183898/

6. Once you're situated, the oil filter is somewhat easily accessible. Hedging, I bought two wrenches previously:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-4568

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-57020?rrec=true

In the video, the gentleman uses a traditional cap type removal tool. I wasn't sure how stuck my filter would be, how much traction I could get. I used the OTC three-finger tool; it worked well. Placing the legs against the filter with one hand, I used a swivel and socket with the other and backed it off. Once I could move it with my hand, I was GTG. I did not use the Lisle wrench. Great tool. I have another vehicle which could use it.

7. Given the angle of attachment, I did not fill the filter all the way. I filled it half full. No issues at startup. Pressure took a second or two to register, and then that was it. Even if you fill the filter full, much of the engine block is still without oil. It will take a moment or two to purge the air and refill.

8. I've been using the Ford Pass App, which has the feature to add service records. Today, I cannot add a service record. I'll continue to try. Most comments I've read have same: some days you can add a service record. Others, not.

https://www.ford.com/support/how-to...orted-features/how-do-i-add-a-service-record/

I took multiple photos, documenting everything, with a notecard (VIN and date). Took screenshots of the Ford App, with mileage and oil life %.

9. Finally, probably most important (should have made #1), block time. If you're in a rush or the weather sucks, it might be best to pause and attack later. Making sure you have enough time, especially if the first time doing so, helps remove frustration.

10. Spend the rest of the day test driving.

Good write-up @Skye!

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