Oil consumption then not

[cmxPPL219]

Hello; This may not apply at all so keep that in mind. I was looking to buy an F-150 V8 a few months ago. Started finding information about excessive oil consumption. Finally found a TSB put out from Ford about it. I may be able to find that TSB later, but will recite what I recall.

Ford said the oil consumption may ease off as miles are gained. Maybe as much as 10,000+. They also were reprograming the computer on affected trucks so the throttle body did not close all the way when you let off the gas. This leaves a gap for air to pass so apparently reduces the vacuum with a closed throttle when coasting. Reduces the vacuum so less oil is sucked past the rings. A theory apparently is the rings are not seating in for a long time.
Ford is also changing the dipstick to read two quarts between full and low, so the engine can show to be OK on the replacement dipstick whereas on the stock dipstick it would read a quart low.
Near as I can make out the new plasma arc method of lining the cylinder wall makes a very hard surface so the rings do not seat so quickly as in the past. That plasma arc cylinder lining had been used in GT 350 engines for many years and was started to be used in Mustang GT and F-150 engines around 2017 or 2018.

Yeah, bullseye.

In my 5.0, it's consumed oil since new, and consistently used to see 1qt consumed every 3000km (~1875miles) when I used to commute to work in a lot of stop and go, and hilly highways on my route. I used to engine brake a lot, and this contributed to the consumption, due to the vacuum and throttle body closure.

As of late, don't have the same commute in that stop and go, and consumption has dropped to 1qt every 3800km (~2375miles).

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[brownisland]

newbie here pre-delivery! quick question for you guys. is the catch-can a must-have right from the start? also I've been reading that most people get oil only on the passenger side and not on the driver side - is this consistent with your experience? would you recommend installing just the passenger side?
For the break-in procedures, the owner's manual states below:
"Your vehicle requires a break-in period. Drive your new vehicle at least 100 mi (160 km) before performing extended wide open throttle maneuvers and at least 1,000 mi (1,600 km) before performance or competition conditions. Note: Vary your speed frequently in order to give the moving parts a chance to break in."
I see this as, drive under 3K-4K RPM first 100 miles and then spirited from 100 miles to 1,000 miles without redlining. what is the healthy break-in process?

 

[460Fred]

newbie here pre-delivery! quick question for you guys. is the catch-can a must-have right from the start? also I've been reading that most people get oil only on the passenger side and not on the driver side - is this consistent with your experience? would you recommend installing just the passenger side?
For the break-in procedures, the owner's manual states below:
"Your vehicle requires a break-in period. Drive your new vehicle at least 100 mi (160 km) before performing extended wide open throttle maneuvers and at least 1,000 mi (1,600 km) before performance or competition conditions. Note: Vary your speed frequently in order to give the moving parts a chance to break in."
I see this as, drive under 3K-4K RPM first 100 miles and then spirited from 100 miles to 1,000 miles without redlining. what is the healthy break-in process?

In my experience, you won’t need the passenger side catch can until you are broken in. I ordered one right away and installed ASAP. The OE hoses were completely dry before I installed the Ford Performance catch can.
Your understanding of the break in process is spot on.
Unless you hit the track real hard, you won’t need the driver side catch can.

 

[Booboo]

Hope this isnt off-topic, but to those doing your own oil changes, what proof are you guys keeping? Service guy at the dealer said to save all receipts (obvious) and.... to record the oil change on video! Seems a bit much.

It would SUCK to have warranty denied due to no oil changes on record at the dealer.

 

[460Fred]

Hope this isnt off-topic, but to those doing your own oil changes, what proof are you guys keeping? Service guy at the dealer said to save all receipts (obvious) and.... to record the oil change on video! Seems a bit much.

It would SUCK to have warranty denied due to no oil changes on record at the dealer.

I’m just keeping receipts and taking a few pictures on my phone which are date stamped.

 

[sk47]

Hope this isnt off-topic, but to those doing your own oil changes, what proof are you guys keeping? Service guy at the dealer said to save all receipts (obvious) and.... to record the oil change on video! Seems a bit much.

It would SUCK to have warranty denied due to no oil changes on record at the dealer.

Hello; many years ago the DIY oil change issue was settled. While I cannot cite the particular law right now, I do think you can do things such as oil change without voiding a factory warranty. Not sure about the extended warranties.
The way I understand it is the manufactures (mfg) have to list specifications for things like the oil to use and things such as oil filters. If a different mfg decides to make oil or filters and their stuff meets or exceeds the mfg specs then you can use their parts. If you do it yourself be sure to keep the receipts for things like oil, oil filters, power steering fluid, transmission fluid and so on. Keep the receipts for as long as the warranty is in effect. Any additional evidence will not hurt so if you have pictures or video save that as well. I also try to keep a log of such things while under warranty. There often is a place for such records in the owners manual.

It will not hurt to use the mfg products if such is not a cost issue. I tend to buy mfg made things such as power steering fluid and antifreeze. Oil and oil filters I check to make sure it meets or exceeds the factory specs, which most do. I am pretty sure they cannot make you have oil changes at a dealers shop. If the cost or distance is not a problem then go to the dealer, but I am fairly sure you do not have to.

Now I have had different stories about those extended or lifetime warranties. Some require all service work be done by an ASE certified mechanic. This is not much good for someone like me. I try to do all the work on my stuff that I can

 

[svttim]

Have a good friend with a 17R that was almost at the engine replacement point, had the test done and just missed the mark by a very small margin. Then it stopped. So this is a real phenonima

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