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Offset help: 19x9.5 and 19x10.5

juicyg6

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Hi guys

I live in Australia and will be picking up a used 2019 Ford Mustang GT next week.

One of the first things that I would like to do on the car is to change the wheels and I'm looking for something which fills out the guards more than the stock 19 inch wheels.

I do like Rays wheels since they are simple and I've got my heart set on a set of Gram lights 57DR in 19 inches. I'd like to have a setup which will perform similarly to the stock staggered setup but is wider so I'm looking at getting 19x9.5 and 19x10.5.

For the fronts, the 19x9.5 are available in +22, +25 and +35. Which would these fit best and will they clear the standard brembos? I'm not looking for any poke and would like to sit either flush or slightly inside the fender is fine.

For the rear, the 19x10.5 are available in +22 and +35. Based on what I've seen and read, the +35 should be fine.

What would be the best offsets for this sizing and the best tyre size combo?

Thanks

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Farkel

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Not the best pictures, but these are 19x10 +35 front and rear. 9.5 +35 fronts will be tucked in a little more, while 10.5 +35 rears will poke out a little more. Anything less than +35 will have more pronounced poke, in addition to possibly putting more stress on wheel bearings.
For reference, these tires (tyres to you) are 275/40 all around.
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juicyg6

juicyg6

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Thanks Farkel.

In that case, would a 19x9.5 +35 front and 19x10.5 +45 rear be better suited?

I'll be on stock MR suspension and don't want to have any poke and if it's not exactly flush I don't mind if it sits in a little either.
 

NightmareMoon

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Thanks Farkel.

In that case, would a 19x9.5 +35 front and 19x10.5 +45 rear be better suited?

I'll be on stock MR suspension and don't want to have any poke and if it's not exactly flush I don't mind if it sits in a little either.
Yes. 10.5 ET45 is nearly perrfect on the rear. An ideal fit IMHO. Ita about 4mm less poke than a 10” ET35 pictured above.

The 9.5 ET35 front would be fine too but I think 10” ET35 is perfect on the front so whatever. Thats only a 1/4” less poke on the outside edge.than the fit above so not much more inset.

Frankly, I prefer the 10” ET35 pictured above with 285 square tires which you can rotate. The stagger doesn’t help handling or grip really and going square makes it so much easier to rotate and extend tire life. Staggered setups are conservative for drivers who aren’t used to balanced handling, but its just not needed IMHO.
 
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juicyg6

juicyg6

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Yes. 10.5 ET45 is nearly perrfect on the rear. An ideal fit IMHO. Ita about 4mm less poke than a 10” ET35 pictured above.

The 9.5 ET35 front would be fine too but I think 10” ET35 is perfect on the front so whatever. Thats only a 1/4” less poke on the outside edge.than the fit above so not much more inset.

Frankly, I prefer the 10” ET35 pictured above with 285 square tires which you can rotate. The stagger doesn’t help handling or grip really and going square makes it so much easier to rotate and extend tire life. Staggered setups are conservative for drivers who aren’t used to balanced handling, but its just not needed IMHO.
Thanks for the comments. I'm starting to rethink this staggered setup after more reading.

I really like the look of the 57DR on the car and it does come in a 19x9.5 +35. Would this be a good fit all around?

Cheers
 

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NightmareMoon

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Thanks for the comments. I'm starting to rethink this staggered setup after more reading.

I really like the look of the 57DR on the car and it does come in a 19x9.5 +35. Would this be a good fit all around?

Cheers
Ya its not a bad fit. Kind of conservative in width tho (only 9.5”) and not too aggressive in offset. Too bad they don’t have a 10”
 

MidwayJ

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A lot of people prefer staggered for the look (more concavity in the rear wheels and wider tires). If that's a priority the 9.5 and 10.5 you proposed would be perfectly fine, especially if you won't be tracking the car. Personally I prefer a square setup for the reasons given, but I cruise around with several S550 owners happy with staggered.
 

NightmareMoon

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A lot of people prefer staggered for the look (more concavity in the rear wheels and wider tires). If that's a priority the 9.5 and 10.5 you proposed would be perfectly fine, especially if you won't be tracking the car. Personally I prefer a square setup for the reasons given, but I cruise around with several S550 owners happy with staggered.
Concavity is not from wheel width, its from the wheel face.. All the added width comes from additional barrel behind the face.

Our cars have fenders and hubs which don't move, so those dimensions define how much concavity you can get. You get the same options for a 9" wheel as you do for an 11" wheel, because the hub and fenders aren't going anywhere.

From the side, visual concavity tells you nothing about how deep that wheel barrel goes into the wheel well.
 

MidwayJ

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Concavity is not from wheel width, its from the wheel face.. All the added width comes from additional barrel behind the face.

Our cars have fenders and hubs which don't move, so those dimensions define how much concavity you can get. You get the same options for a 9" wheel as you do for an 11" wheel, because the hub and fenders aren't going anywhere.

From the side, visual concavity tells you nothing about how deep that wheel barrel goes into the wheel well.
Well, I was talking about the appeal of staggered for looks, so visual concavity is what I'm referring to. Another way to describe it is the concavity of the spokes, or how much further inward the inside edge of the spokes are at the center plate vs. the outside edge of the spokes at the rim. (Obviously doesn't apply to deep dish wheels with lips.) This "depth" looks greater to me on wider wheels of the same model. I realize wider wheels designed for the rear typically have greater offset, which would reduce the concavity I'm describing, but wider rear wheels still look deeper in the center to me. Optical illusion?
 

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NightmareMoon

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Well, I was talking about the appeal of staggered for looks, so visual concavity is what I'm referring to. Another way to describe it is the concavity of the spokes, or how much further inward the inside edge of the spokes are at the center plate vs. the outside edge of the spokes at the rim. (Obviously doesn't apply to deep dish wheels with lips.) This "depth" looks greater to me on wider wheels of the same model. I realize wider wheels designed for the rear typically have greater offset, which would reduce the concavity I'm describing, but wider rear wheels still look deeper in the center to me. Optical illusion?
Its a common misconception that buying a wider wheel will get you a more concave face, but that's not really how it works. So.... Optical illusion, but here are specific wheel example cases on both sides of the argument.

Generally speaking, a wider 11' wheel doesn't allow for a more concave face design than a 9" wheel if they're both as aggressive offsets as they can be for the fenders.

For a concrete example, you won't be able to tell an SVE 10" 350R wheel from an 11" wheel from the concavity of the face without looking at it from a quarter or rear view. where you can actually appreciate the width of the barrel and tire. The face designs are identical. Same is true for most wheels.

BUT many wide wheels are also aggressive offsets, which allows a maximally concave face, if the manufacturer selects one.

SVE 350R 11" wheels (for example) are disappointing in their lack of concavity. A 10" Project6gr Seven is a lot more concave than the 11" SVE with nearly identical design. Why? That's just the face design they chose.

Project 6gr sevens are a rare exception which proves your point. The 11' P6GR7 wheel face design is actually slightly more concave than the 10" version (for basically the same hub and outside rim relative positions), but that's not actually the norm for most of the wheels we're using.
 

MidwayJ

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Its a common misconception that buying a wider wheel will get you a more concave face, but that's not really how it works. So.... Optical illusion, but here are specific wheel example cases on both sides of the argument.

Generally speaking, a wider 11' wheel doesn't allow for a more concave face design than a 9" wheel if they're both as aggressive offsets as they can be for the fenders.

For a concrete example, you won't be able to tell an SVE 10" 350R wheel from an 11" wheel from the concavity of the face without looking at it from a quarter or rear view. where you can actually appreciate the width of the barrel and tire. The face designs are identical. Same is true for most wheels.

BUT many wide wheels are also aggressive offsets, which allows a maximally concave face, if the manufacturer selects one.

SVE 350R 11" wheels (for example) are disappointing in their lack of concavity. A 10" Project6gr Seven is a lot more concave than the 11" SVE with nearly identical design. Why? That's just the face design they chose.

Project 6gr sevens are a rare exception which proves your point. The 11' P6GR7 wheel face design is actually slightly more concave than the 10" version (for basically the same hub and outside rim relative positions), but that's not actually the norm for most of the wheels we're using.
OK. The 6GRs are indeed an example where the 11 inch rears look more concave to me (actually the 7s and the 10s). The Forgestar F14s, too, but it could be just perception.
 

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These are 19x9.5 +35 with 285/35R19 tires all the way around.

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I'd Recommend for the front to go with 19x9.5 ET25 and for the Rear go with 19x10.5 ET35. You'll have a flush look on the Front with no need for any sort of spacers or camber adjustments. The rear you're gonna have 5-6mm Poke which could be corrected through Camber or just put 275 40 19 in the back to have a small amount of stretch in order to not get any rubbing.
 
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juicyg6

juicyg6

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These are 19x9.5 +35 with 285/35R19 tires all the way around.

51278880507_8d784e631b_b.jpg
Thanks for the help. At the moment, I'm leaning towards this fitment since you fit fit a slightly wider tyre all around and it's an easy to manage square setup. It's not as aggressive as others but hopefully a decent enough upgrade over stick.
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