None HP suspension and wheel upgrades

[Quik5oh]

Nobody cares about real or build a bear HP. That's not up badging. It's a package. Anybody who shames a non HP is a weirdo.

Well said and couldn't agree more!

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[MACHtobers Very Own]

Funny part is I definitely considered non hp and do it myself BUT when I ordered my car HP was 3500.00 and I'm sure through alibaba you can get that down but the price is fine to have it all done at factory considering what you get.

It got up to 5500-5800 by the time the mach 1 ended which makes building it yourself a bit more intriguing.

 

[TEAsGrabber]

Can't help you with the suspension stuff as I haven't touched mine. The MACh1 Track Attack driving school cured me of testine the handling limits of this car on the streets! As far a wheels..... I too dig the HP wheels. I have the original set stored in my attic and bought a set of replicas. they're 19x10's +35 back spacing and fit the car great. I'm running 305/30/19's. The replica wheels are about 8lbs lighter than the OEM's. Ton's of tire choices with a 10" wheel!! 19 Inch Platinum Mach 1 Style wheels Combo

 

[skinnyb]

Can't help you with the suspension stuff as I haven't touched mine. The MACh1 Track Attack driving school cured me of testine the handling limits of this car on the streets! As far a wheels..... I too dig the HP wheels. I have the original set stored in my attic and bought a set of replicas. they're 19x10's +35 back spacing and fit the car great. I'm running 305/30/19's. The replica wheels are about 8lbs lighter than the OEM's. Ton's of tire choices with a 10" wheel!! 19 Inch Platinum Mach 1 Style wheels Combo

I wish I had been able to do the Track Attack driving event. I am the second owner so no go for me. I might some day pay and do the driving experience as a paid thing. But I agree, I have nowhere found the limits of this car on the street, even in Non HP form, there is nowhere any road anywhere you can even begin to test it. I hit a few curves here and there in a spirited fashion and it is rock solid as you can get...

 

[Quik5oh]

Can't help you with the suspension stuff as I haven't touched mine. The MACh1 Track Attack driving school cured me of testine the handling limits of this car on the streets! As far a wheels..... I too dig the HP wheels. I have the original set stored in my attic and bought a set of replicas. they're 19x10's +35 back spacing and fit the car great. I'm running 305/30/19's. The replica wheels are about 8lbs lighter than the OEM's. Ton's of tire choices with a 10" wheel!! 19 Inch Platinum Mach 1 Style wheels Combo

I wonder if the "Wheel Replicas" are the same wheels that LMR sells or if theirs are truly unique to LMR?

 

[Krankenstein]

Handling pack wheels are the best looking in my opinion, but a pain to clean. I haven't really seen a wheel style that I like more yet. LMRs MHP1 wheels give you a similar enough look without having the aggressive offset in the front, spokes are also noticeably thinner imo. Velgen, Signature, Apex and Weld wheels are all sets that I've seen on Mach 1s that usually look pretty good but some of those options are going to cost you big.

Ultimately though, it is your car so do what you want. Anyone who is getting on your case about being a "HP poser" is just being a tool or thinks there HP car is somehow better than yours. The reality is you can throw all the Handling Pack parts on a Non-Hp car and it will handle exactly the same as an HP. The only noticeable difference would be speedo reading, which would read higher than you are actually going. There was a thread from a while back were someone compared the programming codes of a non-hp and an hp car and found there was no difference in the tuning for the magernride which a lot of hp owners will tell you exists. Even if it did exist, the difference would be negligible.

I'm currently still running my factory sway bars but thinking about possibly upgrading atleast the rear. Aside from some exterior and interior cosmetics, my non-hp has the following:

OEM Handling Pack:
Chin Splitter, Spoiler, Wheels, Wheel molding and rear splash guards
(The spoiler came gloss black and was repainted magnetic gray but I left the gurney flap left gloss black because I like that look more and that's how ford originally had it on their preproduction cars),

Maximum Motorsports:
Camber Plates (Had Steeda previously, but passenger side bearings failed and I wanted to try something different)

Steeda:
Dual Rate Springs, X-Pipe, 2 point G-Trac Brac, Low profile Jacking rails, IRS subframe bushings and alignment kit, IRS subframe support braces as well as ajustable sway bar endlinks.

 

[Mach 307]

Wanting to do a few upgrades to my Mach 1 (may or may not have a small end of year bonus burning my pockets ). Mostly just putting around town, but do occasionally do some track time and some spirited road driving i.e., The Dragon etc. Want to add a bit more rubber over the stock non-HP tire sizes and firm up the suspension some, feel like I'm leaving some handling on the table as my skill has increased. Two stages here but I think they might be related somewhat based on my goals, so wanted some feedback.

1st: Wheels and tires, I dunno if it makes me a poser but I really like/want the stock HP Bird nest wheels and I like the tire sizes. I know I'd need to add the fender flair to the front. Should I be considering other options here? Is it really it frowned upon to run HP wheels on a none HP since it's not technically up badging?

2nd: Suspension, thinking I want to go full Steeda here, I've put together a quick build but wanted some input on if what I chose is correct or needed or if I should change, add, or remove anything. I'm scrubbing the outer shoulder of the front tires and figure a bit of camber would help so adding the camber plates or maybe it's just HP envy . Not sure if the magnaride tune is really that great and it's very spendy and could easily be added later. Slightly worried about lowering springs tbh even slightly roads are rough and it's a bit of a lip to get in my garage/shop.

Thanks for the help/input.

Pull the trigger on the wheels if you want them, not up badging whatsoever ;) you can actually get them pretty cheap from Ford Performance.

As for your other choice, I know many swear by Steeda, but personally I think they suck the more I’ve read, heard, and experienced in the past, and think you should check out BMR.

 

[Mach 307]

Funny part is I definitely considered non hp and do it myself BUT when I ordered my car HP was 3500.00 and I'm sure through alibaba you can get that down but the price is fine to have it all done at factory considering what you get.

It got up to 5500-5800 by the time the mach 1 ended which makes building it yourself a bit more intriguing.

Really the only thing you can’t “replicate” or swap on a non-HP Mach 1 is the EPAS from the HP.

 

[skinnyb]

Really the only thing you can’t “replicate” or swap on a non-HP Mach 1 is the EPAS from the HP.

Agreed, I have noticed my EPAS is significantly heavier on my Non HP car with HP wheels and tires. Not a big deal, I actually like it, but it is more of a chore than my 22 GT PP was to drive, although I went much bigger tire on it too.

 

[JohnM@Steeda]

Wanting to do a few upgrades to my Mach 1 (may or may not have a small end of year bonus burning my pockets ). Mostly just putting around town, but do occasionally do some track time and some spirited road driving i.e., The Dragon etc. Want to add a bit more rubber over the stock non-HP tire sizes and firm up the suspension some, feel like I'm leaving some handling on the table as my skill has increased. Two stages here but I think they might be related somewhat based on my goals, so wanted some feedback.

1st: Wheels and tires, I dunno if it makes me a poser but I really like/want the stock HP Bird nest wheels and I like the tire sizes. I know I'd need to add the fender flair to the front. Should I be considering other options here? Is it really it frowned upon to run HP wheels on a none HP since it's not technically up badging?

2nd: Suspension, thinking I want to go full Steeda here, I've put together a quick build but wanted some input on if what I chose is correct or needed or if I should change, add, or remove anything. I'm scrubbing the outer shoulder of the front tires and figure a bit of camber would help so adding the camber plates or maybe it's just HP envy . Not sure if the magnaride tune is really that great and it's very spendy and could easily be added later. Slightly worried about lowering springs tbh even slightly roads are rough and it's a bit of a lip to get in my garage/shop.

Thanks for the help/input.

We can assist you with your suspension set up! Message me or email me directly at [email protected] with any questions you have. We can also provide package pricing as well.

 

[JohnM@Steeda]

Pull the trigger on the wheels if you want them, not up badging whatsoever ;) you can actually get them pretty cheap from Ford Performance.

As for your other choice, I know many swear by Steeda, but personally I think they suck the more I’ve read, heard, and experienced in the past, and think you should check out BMR.

Our products are designed by engineers, tested rigorously at the track and on the street before they are offered for sale. Feel free to message me or email me at [email protected] with your concerns.

 

[ThatSilverCar]

I wish I had been able to do the Track Attack driving event. I am the second owner so no go for me. I might some day pay and do the driving experience as a paid thing. But I agree, I have nowhere found the limits of this car on the street, even in Non HP form, there is nowhere any road anywhere you can even begin to test it. I hit a few curves here and there in a spirited fashion and it is rock solid as you can get...

If you get a chance to do an HPDE track day/weekend I HIGHLY recommend it. I've done a few and it's a blast, I learned a TON and running my car at its limit and mine was nice. Was also fun to drive as hard and fast as I wanted without worrying about hurting anyone or getting a felony .

Closest I've gotten to track intensity so far on the street was the Dragon, and you are being dangerous once you hit those limits. The risk is REALLY high so I don't really like that as much and prefer a more chill and safer dragon run.

 

[ThatSilverCar]

Handling pack wheels are the best looking in my opinion, but a pain to clean. I haven't really seen a wheel style that I like more yet. LMRs MHP1 wheels give you a similar enough look without having the aggressive offset in the front, spokes are also noticeably thinner imo. Velgen, Signature, Apex and Weld wheels are all sets that I've seen on Mach 1s that usually look pretty good but some of those options are going to cost you big.

Ultimately though, it is your car so do what you want. Anyone who is getting on your case about being a "HP poser" is just being a tool or thinks there HP car is somehow better than yours. The reality is you can throw all the Handling Pack parts on a Non-Hp car and it will handle exactly the same as an HP. The only noticeable difference would be speedo reading, which would read higher than you are actually going. There was a thread from a while back were someone compared the programming codes of a non-hp and an hp car and found there was no difference in the tuning for the magernride which a lot of hp owners will tell you exists. Even if it did exist, the difference would be negligible.

I'm currently still running my factory sway bars but thinking about possibly upgrading atleast the rear. Aside from some exterior and interior cosmetics, my non-hp has the following:

OEM Handling Pack:
Chin Splitter, Spoiler, Wheels, Wheel molding and rear splash guards
(The spoiler came gloss black and was repainted magnetic gray but I left the gurney flap left gloss black because I like that look more and that's how ford originally had it on their preproduction cars),

Maximum Motorsports:
Camber Plates (Had Steeda previously, but passenger side bearings failed and I wanted to try something different)

Steeda:
Dual Rate Springs, X-Pipe, 2 point G-Trac Brac, Low profile Jacking rails, IRS subframe bushings and alignment kit, IRS subframe support braces as well as ajustable sway bar endlinks.

I am glad you chose the right color .

You've taken the path I'm really thinking I want to go. How would you compare the handling characteristics/performance to before you made all the changes? Anything you wish you hadn't done? Also any rubbing or anything post lowering springs?

 

[skinnyb]

If you get a chance to do an HPDE track day/weekend I HIGHLY recommend it. I've done a few and it's a blast, I learned a TON and running my car at its limit and mine was nice. Was also fun to drive as hard and fast as I wanted without worrying about hurting anyone or getting a felony .

Closest I've gotten to track intensity so far on the street was the Dragon, and you are being dangerous once you hit those limits. The risk is REALLY high so I don't really like that as much and prefer a more chill and safer dragon run.

Same. I drive the dragon regularly (local) and it's fun even going at 50%. Plus there are even more fun roads around that are as good but much less publicized.

 

[crzystang]

Lot of good info on here.
I went with LMR forged DH1 wheels 10.5 up front and 11 in the rear.

Did steeda suspension, did not do the diff bushings.
On your list, I would forget the diff bushings and the magneride controller until you are ready to be a track car.

it really all depends on how much you are willing to compromise your factory ride quality.

Steeda springs are solid and you will not notice a ride difference. Moving to the lower profile tire you do notice just a little in ride difference.

If I were you, I would leave the DSC controller and the diff bushings and snag the other sway bar, as well as the IRS alignment and bushing set up.

My car
Steeda
Progressive springs. (Will be moving to dual rate, car is a bit low)
Front and rear sway bars with billet brackets
IRS braces
IRS alignment dowel
IRS aluminum bushing inserts
2 point g trac

Maximum Motorsport CC plates

LMR DHP1 forged wheels (I went this route for weight and cleaning)

added all the factory HP bits

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