Noco Genius2 or Noco Genius5?

[skinnyb]

The NOCO Gen 2 would work as a maintainer if that's all you need. Regarding the "System shutting down" message, it is more of a nuisance message than anything. In most circumstances you can ignore it. Let me explain, Ford installed a battery monitoring system in the car. The purpose is to keep the battery from being discharged by all the subsystem modules in the car. Just because you shut the car off does not mean that the car is completely off. These modules communicate to the car's main computer over the CAN buss interface. They periodically wake up to report status. However when the battery voltage gets down to the battery monitor's set threshold, it starts turning off modules so that the car will have enough voltage to start. Now the one module that is the root of all evil that Ford has installed is the Telematics module. This little POS communicates to Ford over available WIFI networks. While it does allow system software updates, it also reports your driving habits to Ford. If you have WIFI enabled and not set up to a particular Network, then this module will kill you battery overnight as it keeps trying to connect. I suggest you set it up but disable it and keep it off. I learned the hard way with my wife's Lincoln MKX. It cost me a new battery, and that one was a beast of a battery, only to have the new one dead 4 months later. Fortunately, I purchased an AGM battery and was able to recharge it. Once I figured out that the WIFI needed to be off, no more overnight dead battery. Oh yeah, one more thing, you need to reset the battery monitor in FORSCAN or follow the the procedure in the manual any time you mess with the battery.

Ah the telematics module. I unplugged mine the first week I had my car . Only reason I used on my 22 GT was for remote start using the app. Mach 1 is a manual so nope she disabled. My battery tender keeps on green all the time now, the auto gt stayed red more than green.

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[RacingRoger]

And speaking of Joe Gonsalves and his Lincoln, I feel your pain! A few years ago, the very expensive battery on my 2017 Lincoln MKZ was starting to die (Ford likes to give Lincoln a battery where the + and - terminals are reversed, which means if you have a regular battery, you can't use it because the battery cables won't reach the proper terminals and turning the battery around so the cables will reach doesn't allow the battery to fit in the tray).
Anywhoo, I was just going to throw my old battery charger on it to try to put off the inevitable as long as possible when the Off Base Commander says, "Whaitaminit, will that hurt the car's electronics?"
"Noooooo," I says.
"Well call Ford and find out."
So I call the local dealer, and in true CYA fashion, they say,
"No, we can't guarantee that won't damage your Lincoln's electrical system."
I think it was about $200-$300 later I had a brand new battery in the car, even though I knew Ford was blowing sunshine.
And an old battery charger I don't dare use on my all electronic MKZ (or not get caught using it on that car).
And now an old battery charger I don't dare use on my recently acquired Mustang (or again, not get caught). So it's time I buy a battery charger (sorry, maintainer) that I may be able to convince the Off Base Commander that it won't hurt the car's electronics....

 

[ORRadtech]

And speaking of Joe Gonsalves and his Lincoln, I feel your pain! A few years ago, the very expensive battery on my 2017 Lincoln MKZ was starting to die (Ford likes to give Lincoln a battery where the + and - terminals are reversed, which means if you have a regular battery, you can't use it because the battery cables won't reach the proper terminals and turning the battery around so the cables will reach doesn't allow the battery to fit in the tray).
Anywhoo, I was just going to throw my old battery charger on it to try to put off the inevitable as long as possible when the Off Base Commander says, "Whaitaminit, will that hurt the car's electronics?"
"Noooooo," I says.
"Well call Ford and find out."
So I call the local dealer, and in true CYA fashion, they say,
"No, we can't guarantee that won't damage your Lincoln's electrical system."
I think it was about $200-$300 later I had a brand new battery in the car, even though I knew Ford was blowing sunshine.
And an old battery charger I don't dare use on my all electronic MKZ (or not get caught using it on that car).
And now an old battery charger I don't dare use on my recently acquired Mustang (or again, not get caught). So it's time I buy a battery charger (sorry, maintainer) that I may be able to convince the Off Base Commander that it won't hurt the car's electronics....

Just disconnect the negative cable (or both if you're really paranoid) and use whatever charger you want. I mean it's like 1 (or 2) extra bolt...

 

[I Bleed Ford Blue]

Like K4fxd said all you need is a 2 amp for an S-550, actually you can get by with even less. I bought a battery tender brand meant for motorcycles/lawn equipment and it has a .75 amp output, yes you read that right 3/4 of an amp. I put it my my former 17 vert back in 17 and used it every winter until I traded it in June of 23 for the mach 1 and when I traded it the factory battery was still in the car and working just like a new battery. I'm now using the same tender on my mach 1.

When I bought it my intention was only to maintain, not charge, so I bought the smallest output they had.
My point even a little 3/4 amp is fine if you just want to maintain. You probably could get away with a smaller one but I've never heard of anyone trying a smaller one than mine. They still make the 750mA model, it's 35 bucks on amazon and they also have an 800 mA model and its 40

 

[Qcman17]

Like K4fxd said all you need is a 2 amp for an S-550, actually you can get by with even less. I bought a battery tender brand meant for motorcycles/lawn equipment and it has a .75 amp output, yes you read that right 3/4 of an amp. I put it my my former 17 vert back in 17 and used it every winter until I traded it in June of 23 for the mach 1 and when I traded it the factory battery was still in the car and working just like a new battery. I'm now using the same tender on my mach 1.

When I bought it my intention was only to maintain, not charge, so I bought the smallest output they had.
My point even a little 3/4 amp is fine if you just want to maintain. You probably could get away with a smaller one but I've never heard of anyone trying a smaller one than mine. They still make the 750mA model, it's 35 bucks on amazon and they also have an 800 mA model and its 40

I have the same one and it works perfectly as you noted.

 

[Snakebyte]

Realizing the OP only wants a maintainer, a low amperage maintainer should be sufficient. Like @Joe Gonsalves stated earlier, there are Ford components that don't sleep and pull a parasitic discharge. So you'll want to know what the sum of those are. And don't forget to include discharges from things like a full-time-on dash cam, or a telematic tracker from an insurance company (I lost 2 batteries while on long vacations because of the latter on two different vehicles before I figured that out).

BTW...not all chargers/maintainers are equal. You will want a maintainer that reliably manages the peak charge, preventing overcharging a battery. Battery Tender has always been reliable for me, but there are some other great ones out there.

 

[Raffro]

Anyone ever try a CTEK? I’ve been using one for many years on various cars. It has a reconditioning setting where it “desulpherizes” the battery. I was able to extend the life of the battery in my 911 for almost 7 years and that car is notorious for eating batteries. The 350 is using it now - so far so good.

 

[robvas]

Anyone ever try a CTEK? I’ve been using one for many years on various cars. It has a reconditioning setting where it “desulpherizes” the battery. I was able to extend the life of the battery in my 911 for almost 7 years and that car is notorious for eating batteries. The 350 is using it now - so far so good.

All the NOCO units have the same feature

probably all very similar circuits inside. All made in China. I wouldn't spend too much on one...

 

[Raffro]

All the NOCO units have the same feature

probably all very similar circuits inside. All made in China. I wouldn't spend too much on one...

Actually CTEK units are made in Sweden. I don’t know if they’re made with Chinese materials though - I’m not an expert there. Reading their website it appears there owner invented the electric pulse tech now used in these chargers - so I guess they’re the OG for these new style maintainers.

 

[robvas]

Actually CTEK units are made in Sweden. I don’t know if they’re made with Chinese materials though - I’m not an expert there.

Designed in Sweden, made in China.

 

[robvas]

-

 

[Raffro]

I just checked mine - that’s correct.

still it’s probably the best unit out there though. But to each their own.

Merry Christmas!

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