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Tim Hilliard

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I'm a big fan of consistency, I've run all types of oil in different industries, but Mobil 1 is easily obtainable and proven over 20 years as a good oil (full synthetic) Pick one and stick with it. Chemistry is important. I'm not a stickler for weights as much as how they sample. Local Cat dealers, Jet Care and others will give the best indication of how your oil choice is working for your specific application. There are many specialty blenders available to us today that can tailor an oil to our specific use if you want to go that route. Synthetics in general are more stable than crude base stocks but tend to degrade exponentially compared to 'natural' oils. I'm not a fan of throwing perfectly good oil out and why I like sampling. If you are just buying off the shelf oil it doesn't really matter, it's $70-100 every 10K on average.

Filters...the never ending battle for marketing supremacy just like oil. Purolator builds private label filters for everyone on the planet. In the 90's my understanding was Motorcraft filters were made by WIX. I know Baldwin made the "racing" filters for Moroso.

Donaldson, Baldwin, WIX, Purolator, all make excellent filters. They all design and build for OEM's. You cant really go wrong. Pricing is always based on marketing. I used to sell $1.99 filters that were better than $5 filters. A well marketed name I left out is well , well marketed.

You can never go wrong with OEM.

Honestly the cheap reclaimed oil today works fine from the big box stores. It's reclaimed waste oil that is filtered and has the additive package put back in. It works, it's cheap, it's semi-green. Personally I use Mobil 1 in everything but I may venture into some other experiments with my new GT. I used to run Redline when I sold a lot of it but it was $8/qt 20 years ago. I've never had a failure based on oil. It's a very opinionated based decision.
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Tim Hilliard

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What do you guys think about using Royal Purple?
Personal decision, if your local speed shop sells it, try it, build a relationship with someone who will work with you when you want to mod your Mustang. Oil is like opinions, everyone has them. It started as an alternative to other high performance oils, now it's well marketed...always consider the oil you choose is the least likely reason for an engine failure.
 

Darrinm03

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Happy reading..."For those who do not know, it's a Used Oil Analysis chart to show trends in wear patterns to help owners determine what is normal, and what isn't. This is a great way to monitor your engine's wear patterns over time, and to show you how well the oil you choose is performing in your engine.

Here is the Excel spreadsheet I have created that is Coyote/Roadrunner exclusive. The year model denoted on the chart will have an "R" or a "C". This will tell you if the sample was from the "R"oadrunner (Boss) or the "C"oyote (GT)." Weight is all dependant on the climate the car will operate in


****please not the above quoted part and chart below are not mine and do not take any credit for it, just bringing the info to you guys
 

Millgeo5

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I see Mobil 1, 5w30 synthetic on Amazon selling for $40 for 6 qts...

Sound about right?
Walmart sells 5 quart jugs for $24
 

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Todd15Fastback

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Amsoil or Royal Purple for my new '15GT.
 

Tim Hilliard

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Just make sure you looking at full synthetic not the blends when comparing prices.
 

Seabee1973

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The fact that the Coyote takes eight quarts of oil really plays havoc with the cost of a full-synthetic oil change, doesn't it?
Not at all....lol. I do oil changes on my truck all the time.... has the 5.4 triton in it... oil change if I did not have oil left over 28x2 for mobil 1 5w20, 11 for air filter, 11 for motorcraft fl820s oil filter. That is just rounded numbers... If I were to go to an oil change shop...say mobile 1... it would have been 100 bucks easy
 

BMR Tech

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I just ordered some Pennz Ultra 5-30 Euro Spec from amazon. It's on there for like $6 /quart right now. Have a bunch showing up today. ;)
 

tsunami

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I am waiting for my new vert. I have always done my first oil/filter change on my new vehicles at about 1,000-1,500 miles. I assumed that by that time the engine had been broken in, any microscopic breaking-wear-manufacturing debris would be ready to be dumped. My new truck's manual states that I should do the first oil/filter change at the normal recommended interval.

Any opinions on this?

I also prefer to change the oil/filter myself. I like to allow the old oil to completely drain out rather than the quick dump that shops do. I change the filter at each oil change, even tho' I was told I could change filters at every other oil change. Filters are cheap compared to a gallon and half of synthetic, then I know that the oil is being filtered as best as it can. I had a car that I paid for a oil/filter change. The shop had cross threaded the filter and I had to drive a long screw driver through the filter housing to finally break it lose.

Would the first person to change their own oil/filter on their 2015 describe how easy it was to do the change. Hydraulic lift/ramps, etc. I have ordered an EB which has the drain plug and filter behind the front
'skid' plate. How much hassle will it be for the 5.0 with the filter up under the plate (need a professional lift?)?
 

Seabee1973

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I am waiting for my new vert. I have always done my first oil/filter change on my new vehicles at about 1,000-1,500 miles. I assumed that by that time the engine had been broken in and any microscopic breakin-wear, manufacturing debris would be ready to be dumped.
My new truck's manual states that I should do the first oil/filter change at the normal recommended interval.

Any opinions on this?
Follow your owners manual
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