New Whipple Build

[JustSomeGuy]

To all those with Whipple setups (or anyone with perspective frankly) what do I need for a Whipple build? Everything lock stock and barrel. My car is a ‘21 base GT and I’m looking to get 750 to the wheel (based on the fact that I believe I can run that HP without any serious issues to the engine or a need to change internal components to handle that HP). I live in the worst state on the planet so it will have to be CARB compliant. I will be purchasing from Beefcake.
I’m looking to get a list of a one time purchase of all items so I can install it all at once.
I run 19x10 squared right now, is there value in switching to staggered for 19x11 when I run that excess HP? I don’t want to run huge sidewall rear tires that ruin the look of my car…

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[HKusp]

You're going to want a drag radial out the back either Mickey Thompson or Nitto 555RII's and I would go with a 17 inch to give you more sidewall. Traction on the street at 750 Wheel is limited. Is it a manual or an A10 car?

 

[SamLethal]

You should be able to run that power with no internal upgrades and be just fine. A lot of guys run around that power range. I would recommend upgrading your oil pump gears and crankshaft sprocket with some boundary gears. If you have a manual, I would definitely consider upgrading your clutch as well to a Mcleod RST/RXT or Vengeance stage 2. I would also go with some Kooks headers 1-7/8s to pair with the Whipple as well, a great combination and upgrade when you go forced induction.

The wheels are a little more in depth and you can go a few different routes. You can stick with your size and just get a tire with grip to put that power to the road. Or you can get a 17x10 and run a bigger sidewall tire for more traction, while keeping a similar look, in terms of space from your fender to your tire. It just depends what you want to go with, and the style of driving you will be doing to be honest, but I would recommend a Mikey Thompson Street S/S to put that power down if youre not road coursing the car of course.

In terms of the Whipple, I would go with the Stage 2 and get the upgraded heat exchanger at the very least. We also have our special edition Lethal Performance Whipple kits that come with a custom Griptec Pulley and we have some deals going on right now for them, and our LP by Kook headers too. Let us know if we can help get you setup or if you have any other questions!

https://www.lethalperformance.com/s...s/whipple-superchargers/supercharger-kits?p=1

 

[JustSomeGuy]

You're going to want a drag radial out the back either Mickey Thompson or Nitto 555RII's and I would go with a 17 inch to give you more sidewall. Traction on the street at 750 Wheel is limited. Is it a manual or an A10 car?

I really don’t wanna do all that. I hate the way the car looks with normal rims up front and 17s in the rear. I’m not racing (I do more sliding around than anything else) and my car is just as much looks as function. It’s a toy, not a race car. Will going to 11s with sticky rubber be a big improvement over the 10s?

 

[JustSomeGuy]

Sorry, my car is a 6 spd

 

[JustSomeGuy]

You should be able to run that power with no internal upgrades and be just fine. A lot of guys run around that power range. I would recommend upgrading your oil pump gears and crankshaft sprocket with some boundary gears. If you have a manual, I would definitely consider upgrading your clutch as well to a Mcleod RST/RXT or Vengeance stage 2. I would also go with some Kooks headers 1-7/8s to pair with the Whipple as well, a great combination and upgrade when you go forced induction.

The wheels are a little more in depth and you can go a few different routes. You can stick with your size and just get a tire with grip to put that power to the road. Or you can get a 17x10 and run a bigger sidewall tire for more traction, while keeping a similar look, in terms of space from your fender to your tire. It just depends what you want to go with, and the style of driving you will be doing to be honest, but I would recommend a Mikey Thompson Street S/S to put that power down if youre not road coursing the car of course.

In terms of the Whipple, I would go with the Stage 2 and get the upgraded heat exchanger at the very least. We also have our special edition Lethal Performance Whipple kits that come with a custom Griptec Pulley and we have some deals going on right now for them, and our LP by Kook headers too. Let us know if we can help get you setup or if you have any other questions!

https://www.lethalperformance.com/s...s/whipple-superchargers/supercharger-kits?p=1

I don’t think headers are an option for me being in Ca and having to deal with CARB.

 

[robvas]

Not going to hit 750whp if you have to stick to CARB. And if you have to use 91 you'll be under 650 unless you can get a can of Octane booster

19" drag radial will be fine even just a 275, 305 will be a little better though. Never going to hook in 1st on the street though.

 

[JustSomeGuy]

Not going to hit 750whp if you have to stick to CARB. And if you have to use 91 you'll be under 650 unless you can get a can of Octane booster

19" drag radial will be fine even just a 275, 305 will be a little better though. Never going to hook in 1st on the street though.

The CARB Roush Stage 2 claims 750, even if that’s to the crank you’re still 700-ish to the wheel…

 

[robvas]

The CARB Roush Stage 2 claims 750, even if that’s to the crank you’re still 700-ish to the wheel…

You live in the world of 7% drivetrain loss?

They have a 675hp dyno on their site on 93

 

[Kobi Addiction]

Usual suspects….

OPG + Crank Sprocket
Oversized Whipple Heat Exchanger
3-Pass Radiator (not a must, but safe)
Aftermarket Clutch w/SS Clutch Line (I have McLeod RXTHD1200)
New Throwout bearing / Slave Cylinder
Tires (I run Nitto 555RII’s)

….suspension pieces to help with the additional power, but that’s all extra.

 

[J17GT]

If this is a street driven car only, slap the kit on and be done. Traction will be limited, so you won't really break any driveline parts. Just stay off the rev limiter since it's a stick car and you'll be fine with stock OPGs.

If you want any traction at all, drag radials are a must. Second gear will still be a struggle, but third gear should be pretty usable.

 

[robvas]

People are still recommending OPGs?

When's the last time someone even posted about breaking a set?

Meanwhile it seems like we have a lot of threads on people who screw up the install...

 

[J17GT]

People are still recommending OPGs?

When's the last time someone even posted about breaking a set?

Meanwhile it seems like we have a lot of threads on people who screw up the install...

Most don't need them, no. If I wasn't launching my stick car at the track on the 2-step w/ the whipple, I wouldn't have bothered with them either. But for my use case, I think they made sense.

 

[Zrussian13]

For a street car I'd skip the opgs. If the stock clutch isn't slipping or giving you lock out problems I'd ride that out until I needed to upgrade. The factory twin disk holds decent power. I'd also see how the car performs on the tires you have before throwing new wheels at it.

 

[Kobi Addiction]

People are still recommending OPGs?

When's the last time someone even posted about breaking a set?

Meanwhile it seems like we have a lot of threads on people who screw up the install...

….while turning to boost, yes. Why not upgrade a potential weak point if you plan to introduce a big jump in power. They do break (as we have read about over the years), so why not mitigate that possible risk. Cheap insurance.

I have 64k boosted miles on my Gen 1 engine. Maybe I would have been fine without the upgrade, or maybe not.

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