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Zrussian13

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….while turning to boost, yes. Why not upgrade a potential weak point if you plan to introduce a big jump in power. They do break (as we have read about over the years), so why not mitigate that possible risk. Cheap insurance.

I have 64k boosted miles on my Gen 1 engine. Maybe I would have been fine without the upgrade, or maybe not.
Gen 3s have better opgs than gen 1s did. You don't hear about failures like we used too. If you're building a track car I'd say it's definitely worth it but it doesn't sound like the op is going to run his car in a manner it would be needed.
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If this is a street driven car only, slap the kit on and be done. Traction will be limited, so you won't really break any driveline parts. Just stay off the rev limiter since it's a stick car and you'll be fine with stock OPGs.

If you want any traction at all, drag radials are a must. Second gear will still be a struggle, but third gear should be pretty usable.
Will 19x11 be any measurable improvement over the 19x10 I currently have? I understand it won’t be as good as radials, but is it worth doing that?
 

J17GT

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Will 19x11 be any measurable improvement over the 19x10 I currently have? I understand it won’t be as good as radials, but is it worth doing that?
I personally would not bother. The Nitto 555R2 is a popular drag radial and the common 305/35/19 size fits 10-12" rim widths. I run this tire in this size.
 
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JustSomeGuy

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You should be able to run that power with no internal upgrades and be just fine. A lot of guys run around that power range. I would recommend upgrading your oil pump gears and crankshaft sprocket with some boundary gears. If you have a manual, I would definitely consider upgrading your clutch as well to a Mcleod RST/RXT or Vengeance stage 2. I would also go with some Kooks headers 1-7/8s to pair with the Whipple as well, a great combination and upgrade when you go forced induction.

The wheels are a little more in depth and you can go a few different routes. You can stick with your size and just get a tire with grip to put that power to the road. Or you can get a 17x10 and run a bigger sidewall tire for more traction, while keeping a similar look, in terms of space from your fender to your tire. It just depends what you want to go with, and the style of driving you will be doing to be honest, but I would recommend a Mikey Thompson Street S/S to put that power down if youre not road coursing the car of course.

In terms of the Whipple, I would go with the Stage 2 and get the upgraded heat exchanger at the very least. We also have our special edition Lethal Performance Whipple kits that come with a custom Griptec Pulley and we have some deals going on right now for them, and our LP by Kook headers too. Let us know if we can help get you setup or if you have any other questions!

https://www.lethalperformance.com/s...s/whipple-superchargers/supercharger-kits?p=1
What are the suggestions, following CARB, for injectors, how many ribs, pulley diameter, etc etc etc. Is there a kit that comes with a tube or do I need one?
 

J17GT

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JustSomeGuy

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“Carb” legal 🤐

IMG_4462.webp
Obviously not you because you’re carb legal, but hypothetically how could someone else get past the insane nonsense from this stupid state?
 

WalkRB8

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Obviously not you because you’re carb legal, but hypothetically how could someone else get past the insane nonsense from this stupid state?
Fully agree, I’m in Louisiana, so not too strict here. I feel the pain for the folks in states with strict regulations.
 

wingnutt

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Obviously not you because you’re carb legal, but hypothetically how could someone else get past the insane nonsense from this stupid state?
couple of avenues…

1) pull everything off every other year to pass
2) join the military and get stationed elsewhere
3) do the Montana thing
4) register at your sisters house in wyoming
5) buy a CARB legal kit
6) move

…all that being said, I have done all of them, #6 is the the best option unless you won’t/can’t move, then #5 is a no-brainer as it’s just not worth the headache 😎
 
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JustSomeGuy

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couple of avenues…

1) pull everything off every other year to pass
2) join the military and get stationed elsewhere
3) do the Montana thing
4) register at your sisters house in wyoming
5) buy a CARB legal kit
6) move

…all that being said, I have done all of them, #6 is the the best option unless you won’t/can’t move, then #5 is a no-brainer as it’s just not worth the headache 😎
1) sounds insanely obnoxious
2) too old
3)idk what that means
4) have been considering that
5)likely
6) the day I retire… 17 years away
 

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wingnutt

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1) sounds insanely obnoxious
2) too old
3)idk what that means
4) have been considering that
5)likely
6) the day I retire… 17 years away
lol…
1) it absolutely is but we did it when we were younger and dumber
2) lol
3) watch at your local cars and coffee, many have MT plates
4) works until she moves and forgot to tell you
5) probably best
6) happens sooner than we know
and I forgot
7) find “a guy” that will pass you

the problem with all the sketchy ones is getting state ref’d, talk about a mood killer…stick with 5 😬👍🏼
 
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JustSomeGuy

JustSomeGuy

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lol…
1) it absolutely is but we did it when we were younger and dumber
2) lol
3) watch at your local cars and coffee, many have MT plates
4) works until she moves and forgot to tell you
5) probably best
6) happens sooner than we know
and I forgot
7) find “a guy” that will pass you

the problem with all the sketchy ones is getting state ref’d, talk about a mood killer…stick with 5 😬👍🏼
I’ll check out the Montana thing for sure, if not I might “move” to my parents house in AZ.

If I do that and remove cats/do long tubes, is it gonna be worth it Hp-wise?
 

HKusp

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I’ll check out the Montana thing for sure, if not I might “move” to my parents house in AZ.

If I do that and remove cats/do long tubes, is it gonna be worth it Hp-wise?
They ARE worth it on boosted cars. As mentioned, the stock cats and boost can be a very expensive issue. The stock cats do not like thermal shock. The one saving grace for you, is you'll be running the Whipple calibration and they seem to have a better handle on it than a lot of tuners. That being said, in California you are rolling the dice on going catless. The car is noticeably louder when catless regardless of choice of mufflers/resonators/x or h-pipe. For an N/A car, I would NOT do headers, the juice, is definitely NOT worth the squeeze. I also recommend, as did someone else, a crank bolt like the Kinetic crank saver, or similar.
 
 








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