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Pws6

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….while turning to boost, yes. Why not upgrade a potential weak point if you plan to introduce a big jump in power. They do break (as we have read about over the years), so why not mitigate that possible risk. Cheap insurance.

I have 64k boosted miles on my Gen 1 engine. Maybe I would have been fine without the upgrade, or maybe not.
They do not break on 2019+ cars. You can not find an example
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Kobi Addiction

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They do not break on 2019+ cars. You can not find an example
This is fair. I do remember them being upgraded by FoMoCo on 2019+ across the platform.
 

robvas

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I have 64k boosted miles on my Gen 1 engine. Maybe I would have been fine without the upgrade, or maybe not.
My boosted gen 1 has similar miles and it's fine. It's way, way overblown.

It's a lot of money you could put towards something else (most people are paying labor to have them put in)
 

WalkRB8

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I have a new build. 23 GT Auto
Whipple Gen 6
Kooks LTH with green cats
In tank fuel pump upgrade
Borla x-pipe and valved cat back
Full Steeda suspension. The works.
Velgen VF-9 Wheels 20x10.5-295 fronts. 20x11 rears -305
Nitto 555R
Tuned by StangHi in Dallas,TX
720 wheel on 93
 

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Whipple Bullitt

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Do the kit. Add a resonator to get that sweet sound and a driveshaft loop just in case. Did a full build on my 19 Bullitt, just doing what I listed to my 22 Mach1 and don’t anticipate any problems. Tire wise, wrap your rims in the widest rubber they’ll take. I’m liking 305-315 setups.
 
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If this is a street driven car only, slap the kit on and be done. Traction will be limited, so you won't really break any driveline parts. Just stay off the rev limiter since it's a stick car and you'll be fine with stock OPGs.

If you want any traction at all, drag radials are a must. Second gear will still be a struggle, but third gear should be pretty usable.
It’s a street car and just a toy, most of my driving is shenanigans not roll racing or anything where traction will make or break me. I hate the look of radials. I have a square setup and am willing to go to staggered if it makes a difference?
 
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JustSomeGuy

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You live in the world of 7% drivetrain loss?

They have a 675hp dyno on their site on 93

roush.webp
I would expect the loss to be reduced with carbon fiber driveshaft and rims that weigh 1/4 of what the stock ones did, I didn’t expect the loss to be 100hp…
 
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JustSomeGuy

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Usual suspects….

OPG + Crank Sprocket
Oversized Whipple Heat Exchanger
3-Pass Radiator (not a must, but safe)
Aftermarket Clutch w/SS Clutch Line (I have McLeod RXTHD1200)
New Throwout bearing / Slave Cylinder
Tires (I run Nitto 555RII’s)

….suspension pieces to help with the additional power, but that’s all extra.
Sounds good thank you. Every piece of my suspension is already done, I decided to build the car up before I put the SC on.
 

robvas

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I would expect the loss to be reduced with carbon fiber driveshaft and rims that weigh 1/4 of what the stock ones did, I didn’t expect the loss to be 100hp…
Where do you get wheels that weigh 1/4 of the stock ones?

Carbon shaft and light wheels might be worth 15hp on the dyno...tops
 

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JustSomeGuy

JustSomeGuy

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Where do you get wheels that weigh 1/4 of the stock ones?

Carbon shaft and light wheels might be worth 15hp on the dyno...tops
It was an exaggeration, kind of like when you said a 50hp loss was 7%….

All of my experience with motors and dynos and anything at all is with motorcycles, I am new to building cars. The loss on a motorcycle from crank to wheel isn’t 100hp. Sorry for my ignorance.
 

flyleclair

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My installer suggested these items since it was all apart.

Mustang Boundary Crank Gear Sprocket & Oil Pump Gear Kit
Main Force Performance / MFP Coyote Whipple Crank Support
 

robvas

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It was an exaggeration, kind of like when you said a 50hp loss was 7%….

All of my experience with motors and dynos and anything at all is with motorcycles, I am new to building cars. The loss on a motorcycle from crank to wheel isn’t 100hp. Sorry for my ignorance.
50 is 7% of 750 though

A modern Mustang is going to see about 15% drivetrain loss. So 112hp on a 750hp car

Factory Mustang wheel might be 30-32lbs, a good after market wheel will be about 10lb lighter

Carbon or aluminum driveshaft is about 15lbs lighter than stock
 
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JustSomeGuy

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50 is 7% of 750 though

A modern Mustang is going to see about 15% drivetrain loss. So 112hp on a 750hp car

Factory Mustang wheel might be 30-32lbs, a good after market wheel will be about 10lb lighter

Carbon or aluminum driveshaft is about 15lbs lighter than stock
My understanding of the weight loss is with rims and driveshaft the weight is more significant because it’s reciprocating mass that takes horsepower to turn. A couple pounds is more significant than just a couple pounds taken off say the exhaust system. Again, coming from motorcycles.
 

robvas

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My understanding of the weight loss is with rims and driveshaft the weight is more significant because it’s reciprocating mass that takes horsepower to turn. A couple pounds is more significant than just a couple pounds taken off say the exhaust system. Again, coming from motorcycles.
Same with cars

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