New Pads and/or Fluid?

[derklink]

Hi and quick question:

Car is 1,5 years old, has about 3k total miles (about 50:50 street and highway) and 1 track day (novice group, follow the lead) under its belt. Still has stock/original brake pads and fluid.

For an upcoming track day (1 day, novice group, follow the lead), would you do any changes to brake pads and/or fluid?

Pads still look fine and no brake fade noticeable. No spongy brake pedal.

Thank you!

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[sakman84]

No I believe you are just fine. These cars can handle much more than that before changes are necessary.

Good on you for checking, a brake inspection should be done prior to every track session, safety first!

I track a few times a year for the last 15 years or so, in a few different cars.

 

[adeuel]

First step when you need to would be to flush brake fluid to something DOT4 like Motul 660.
Higher boiling point. Replacement with OE pads should be fine for you until you are consistently driving the limit numerous track days a year.

 

[derklink]

First step when you need to would be to flush brake fluid to something DOT4 like Motul 660.
Higher boiling point. Replacement with OE pads should be fine for you until you are consistently driving the limit numerous track days a year.

Post #5 here https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/stock-brake-fluid-and-track-day.185571/ "Looks like all mustangs in 2021 come with DOT4 "

 

[Howitzer]

I'd put fresh brake fluid in if it's been 1.5 years on the same fluid...it degrades with time, not just mileage. Boiling point gets lower the older it is/more water content has been absorbed.

edit: also not all DOT4 fluids are created equal. OEM Motorcraft is OK, something like Motul 600/660 would be better. Typically the higher the dry boiling point of the fluid, the more frequent you'll want to change out that fluid as it can absorb moisture faster. The listed wet boiling points on fluid are typically what you can expect after a year of usage.

 

[derklink]

I'd put fresh brake fluid in if it's been 1.5 years on the same fluid...it degrades with time, not just mileage. Boiling point gets lower the older it is/more water content has been absorbed.

What do you recommend and how much?
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-PM-20-Performance-Vehicle/dp/B00BNVK2TY
or
https://www.amazon.com/Motul-MTL100949-Factory-Percent-Synthetic/dp/B004LEYJO4?th=1

 

[EFI]

You'll be fine with the original fluid based on age and your driving level.

But for added piece of mind you can flush it out for fresh OEM fluid. Again for your driving level, there's no real need for aftermarket fluids with higher boiling points. You will never get to the limit of the OEM setup in the novice group...and if you do you will be quickly moved to a higher group.

 

[Howitzer]

What do you recommend and how much?
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-PM-20-Performance-Vehicle/dp/B00BNVK2TY
or
https://www.amazon.com/Motul-MTL100949-Factory-Percent-Synthetic/dp/B004LEYJO4?th=1

I'd recommend Motul RBF 600 over Motorcraft for any track usage but for your level you'd be fine with OEM Motorcraft too as long as it's fresh fluid.

Dry boiling point is 594(rbf600) vs 509(motorcraft pm-20)
Wet 401(rbf600) vs 338(motorcraft pm-20)

I've overheated fluid(rbf600) before that wasn't quite a year old. It takes the fun out when you can't trust your brakes.

 

[derklink]

I'd recommend Motul RBF 600 over Motorcraft for any track usage but for your level you'd be fine with OEM Motorcraft too as long as it's fresh fluid.

Dry boiling point is 594(rbf600) vs 509(motorcraft pm-20)
Wet 401(rbf600) vs 338(motorcraft pm-20)

I've overheated fluid(rbf600) before that wasn't quite a year old. It takes the fun out when you can't trust your brakes.

Thank you. What quantity is needed?
Update: From Steeda: " It's recommended to have 3 or 4 bottles for a full flush on your S550 Mustang. "

 

[Howitzer]

Thank you. What quantity is needed?

I believe it's around 1.5L (3 of the 500ml bottles) for a full flush.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I'd put fresh brake fluid in if it's been 1.5 years on the same fluid...it degrades with time, not just mileage. Boiling point gets lower the older it is/more water content has been absorbed.

edit: also not all DOT4 fluids are created equal. OEM Motorcraft is OK, something like Motul 600/660 would be better. Typically the higher the dry boiling point of the fluid, the more frequent you'll want to change out that fluid as it can absorb moisture faster. The listed wet boiling points on fluid are typically what you can expect after a year of usage.

Good advice. Routine track prep is bleeding fresh fluid into the calipers at a minimum.

A full flush with a better DOT4 like Motul 600/660 is good insurance. The older the fluid, the more likely it will boil on you. Also the thinner the pads get, the more likely the fluid will boil on you. A fresh fluish of Motul 600/660 is pretty darn hard to boil.

Otherwise, just make sure you have 1/2 or more of your brake pads left and decent tire tread left.

If you're getting close to your oil change interval, change it early ahead of your track day. Old oil doesn't lubricate as well as some of the compounds are breaking down, so high RPM track time, I'd rather have new oil in there.

 

[TRDFurgesson]

Hi and quick question:

Car is 1,5 years old, has about 3k total miles (about 50:50 street and highway) and 1 track day (novice group, follow the lead) under its belt. Still has stock/original brake pads and fluid.

For an upcoming track day (1 day, novice group, follow the lead), would you do any changes to brake pads and/or fluid?

Pads still look fine and no brake fade noticeable. No spongy brake pedal.

Thank you!

yer fine, I've done 5-6 track days and about 5k miles No problem with the stock pads and rotors. Still can't get them to fade. Then again I don't think Mid Ohio Club course is hard on brakes. I did switch to Hawk HP660 fluid because I swapped in Steeda Braided stainless lines.

 

[TRDFurgesson]

Thank you. What quantity is needed?
Update: From Steeda: " It's recommended to have 3 or 4 bottles for a full flush on your S550 Mustang. "

When I pumped my system dry using the bleed lines before changing to Steeda braided lines. I only needed just under 2 bottles of Hawk HP660 after refilling and properly bleeding the system. (Girlfriend pump and hold method) I had also read 3-4 bottles. Bullshi... Now I have another change ready to roll...

 

[GTP]

My performance package car is 4 years old, 19k miles, 5 track days, and used as a daily.

I'm on my 5th oil change (I go by the oil life monitor), 2nd set track pads, original brake fluid, and 75w140 diff oil (before first track day).

I run intermediate group.

I plan to change to ATE 200 brake fluid (1 liter under $20) and change my diff oil before this season's first track day.

I think your first track day as novice, lead/follow will not need anything to be changed.

However once you start braking later and harder you must have track rated pads (PP or M1 OEM pads are fine) instead of street pads. And I highly recommend getting Z23 pads for street use!

 

[Crew4991]

I believe it's around 1.5L (3 of the 500ml bottles) for a full flush.

Hmmm. The flush I did this morning was about 1.6 gallons.

I'm sorry @Howitzer but I had to respond. I couldn't resist. I'm lame, I recognize this.

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