Need help going fast...

[Guard5.0]

Something else to consider if the spacers don't help. Not sure what power level you're at but the combo of 600+rwhp and aftermarket springs with my stock PP dampers made for a scary car. Under power the rear of the car would oscillate under acceleration and curves were downright scary. Upgrading the rear cradle stuff really calmed it down and replacing the aftermarket springs with a good set of coilovers really made a difference. Long story short, make sure the springs and dampers work together and shore up the stock IRS as much as possible

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[jbailer]

Hey John, that's good information. About how much did you take off the studs if they were 1/2 mm too long? Did you grind or use cutoff wheel? Just want to make sure I do it right and without error. Thanks!
Edit: Ok , reading back over the posts jbailer says to cut 3mm off. Man, I should have just gone with the 25's.

The depth gauge I used to measure doesn't have a very long base so my measurement wasn't extremely accurate. From my measurements, I figured a 23mm would be safe leaving maybe 1mm clearance. It's possible my measurement was off by 1.5mm but I would be surprised if it's that much. If you don't want to trim at all, I'd still recommend sticking with 23mm or more, others have validated those measurements too. There is even a source for spacers that started providing 23mm spacers for just that reason.

 

[jbailer]

Something else to consider if the spacers don't help. Not sure what power level you're at but the combo of 600+rwhp and aftermarket springs with my stock PP dampers made for a scary car. Under power the rear of the car would oscillate under acceleration and curves were downright scary. Upgrading the rear cradle stuff really calmed it down and replacing the aftermarket springs with a good set of coilovers really made a difference. Long story short, make sure the springs and dampers work together and shore up the stock IRS as much as possible

I definitely agree with the need to get control of this IRS for any kind of competitive driving. I think all of you have GTs, mine is an EB and have those problems on the low end. Lower speed turns where I'd get into the gas just got insane! The back end jumping around made it extremely difficult to control. I went with a compliment of Steeda suspension parts (see signature) which made a night and day difference. Now when going through corners, I can modulate the understeer/oversteer with the gas and have control.

I doubt this is what the OP had problems with though. I could be mistaken but it sounded like his was just high speed instability, I've had that mostly with under-inflated tires.

 

[Seceda91]

This is correct, the torque goes with the lugs. Follow the torque rating for the vehicle (150 lb ft.) to bolt the adapter to the hub. Then follow the torque rating for the spacer (should be about 90-100 lb ft) to bolt the wheel to the spacer.

Then again, the good brands spacers (H&R, Eibach) will say torque to factory spec because they designed them to factory specs. CJ Pony Parts designed theirs to factory spec so it should be followed as well

If anything, I would torque the spacers to the car 130-150 ft lb since the lugs for the spacers is smaller than OEM and torque the wheels to the spacers at 150 ft lb (This is more critical). If the spacers aren't made to torque to factory spec then that's a dif story.

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[jbailer]

Then again, the good brands spacers (H&R, Eibach) will say torque to factory spec because they designed them to factory specs. CJ Pony Parts designed theirs to factory spec so it should be followed as well

If anything, I would torque the spacers to the car 130-150 ft lb since the lugs for the spacers is smaller than OEM and torque the wheels to the spacers at 150 ft lb (This is more critical). If the spacers aren't made to torque to factory spec then that's a dif story.

Don't confuse the lugs with the lug nuts. The torque spec follows the lugs that are used. The lugs on the S550 changed to a beefier 1/2" stud increasing the torque spec to 150 lb ft which concerned a lot of people not used to tightening their lug nuts so much. The stud/lug on the hub doesn't change so the wheel spacer should be torqued to the factory spec. I agree with maybe a little less (~130) since most of the lug nuts that come with the spacers aren't as heavy duty. But the torque on the lug nuts holding the wheel to the spacer should come from the spec of the wheel spacer.

I bought some cheap Coyote wheel spacers from AM since at the time, they were the only thing available. The torque spec on their lugs was only around 95 lb ft. So the spacers went on at 150 lb ft and the wheels at 95 lb ft.

 

[Seceda91]

Don't confuse the lugs with the lug nuts. The torque spec follows the lugs that are used. The lugs on the S550 changed to a beefier 1/2" stud increasing the torque spec to 150 lb ft which concerned a lot of people not used to tightening their lug nuts so much. The stud/lug on the hub doesn't change so the wheel spacer should be torqued to the factory spec. I agree with maybe a little less (~130) since most of the lug nuts that come with the spacers aren't as heavy duty. But the torque on the lug nuts holding the wheel to the spacer should come from the spec of the wheel spacer.

I bought some cheap Coyote wheel spacers from AM since at the time, they were the only thing available. The torque spec on their lugs was only around 95 lb ft. So the spacers went on at 150 lb ft and the wheels at 95 lb ft.

Yep I totally agree.. My friend has Eibach 25mm spacers and it says to torque to factory spec. The lug provided by the spacers is smaller so he didn't want to torque it down to 150 ft lb.. he did torque it to 120 ft lb. But for the wheels to the spacer, he torqued it too 150 ft lb since the spacers said torque to factory spec.

I would be hesitant to torque the wheels to 150 ft lb to the spacers but that's what they recommended (factory spec). Plus, Eibach is a well known brand so I'm sure they did their R&R so we will have to trust them lol

 

[JaxS550]

Don't worry about not going with 25mm spacers, especially in the rear. I did that at first and with the Vogtland Sport Plus it didn't give me the clearance I felt comfortable with when hitting hard bumps and what not. This is my DD and not a show car so I wanted a lil more room. So I switched to the 20mm in the rear, clearance was good up front with 25mm. Offset between the staggered rims is just different enough to not have issues.

 

[Dsquared]

Don't worry about not going with 25mm spacers, especially in the rear. I did that at first and with the Vogtland Sport Plus it didn't give me the clearance I felt comfortable with when hitting hard bumps and what not. This is my DD and not a show car so I wanted a lil more room. So I switched to the 20mm in the rear, clearance was good up front with 25mm. Offset between the staggered rims is just different enough to not have issues.

Thanks! I'm going to give it a go tomorrow and get the spacers on.

 

[JaxS550]

Not sure if anybody was sitting on the edge of their seats for this issue...but I figured it all out...

I took off all my spacers and bought new rims/tires (20s) and my high speed wobble is all gone. I chopped it up to the spacers not being completely balanced correctly above about 85-90 mph.

With the new set up I have gone around 125-130 on a closed course and had no issues.

 

[Bluemustang]

I figured the spacers were the issue all along. Glad you got it sorted out!

 

[FranzVonHoffer]

Thanks for following up.

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