Motor Let Go Tonight

[racingandfishing]

I know this may have already come up (apologies if I'm being redundant), but does anyone know of any cases where 2016 models have blown up? I can't recall one (I know someone mentioned it's mostly been early 2015s), and I've been reading this forum somewhat religiously.

Not sure if it is relevant or not and I am not an Ecoboost owner, but the Ford Parts Catalog has two different engine assemblies. One for build dates before 3/29/2015 and one for build dates after 3/30/15. At least for the PP model with Auto transmission.

See Pdf file.

Please don't shoot the messenger, I just happened upon this thread as I was searching posts for oil recommendations for my first oil change!

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[DUNDEM]

Sorry to hear OP. Please let us know your findings.


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[JStang15]

Not sure if it is relevant or not and I am not an Ecoboost owner, but the Ford Parts Catalog has two different engine assemblies. One for build dates before 3/29/2015 and one for build dates after 3/30/15. At least for the PP model with Auto transmission.

See Pdf file.

Please don't shoot the messenger, I just happened upon this thread as I was searching posts for oil recommendations for my first oil change!

Nice find. I wonder what would've changed on the cars built after 3/30/15 that would require a different engine assembly...

 

[perfweld]

The NOACK values I listed was what I've found on BITOG and PQIA and what I've seen on my UOAs. I'll look further into it though. I've got a considerable amount of the Pennzoil Ultra (old formula) stock piled that I've been working through. I tend to call it PUP because you can't locate the old PU anymore. I should have clarified that though. If the new formula is indeed a higher NOACK, I'll switch over to Red Line once I'm out of this.

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I use 20w Red Line in my NHRA Stocker, and there 5W in the NHRA Comp elim V6 dragster, and the 10-40 Red Line in the Ecoboost. Red Line has never let me down on my race car stuff, so it went into the Ecoboost right away, not due to your findings, but just because its a great oil.

 

[Edkiefer]

Nice find. I wonder what would've changed on the cars built after 3/30/15 that would require a different engine assembly...

there are a few complete engines listed, but when you look at just a short block or just the block .There is only one listing .
Same for head, pistons, rods and crank ,what is noted there a note on the harmonic balancer that there more than one part for that.
that was for 2016 , I'll that quick look at 2015
ok, seems motor mounts were changed as there build dates on it with 2015 .
Same with harmonic balancer as 2016 , build date note there.

rest seems the same, hate seeing 34$ connecting rod price.

 

[Sup3rPat]

UPR's check valve between the intake manifold and the can?



I'm running 30, on a big turbo on stock motor.[emoji38]About to run more, and 100% e85.




As I have mentioned in another post:




However, it looks like all being #3 is starting to lose it's hold as well as there have been a few reported failures in #2.


Ford has a problem in some engines, not all, and they have been taking care of them more frequently versus dumping the customer out onto the street.

There has still yet to be any failures with big turbo big power cars that are making 380-450whp. I know of 15-20 that are making over 400whp that beat on their car daily with no issues.

If the engine failures were only on vehicles that were tuned, then we would have more of a trend of these failures. However like I mentioned above and others have mentioned there have been failures on completely bone stock cars. In fact there are more stock failures documented than modified cars.

Hell there was a report over the weekend of a customer just driving down the road at 45mph and his motor let go. There was no mention if he was accelerating or not but it was an auto car and I have had my very own car shift into 6th gear at 45mph.

There is also the variable of people hiding what they were actually doing when the failures happened. Some might say they were just driving and it let go, when they might of been at the top of second banging it off the rev limiter, or free revving it like a ricer at a light.

Hard to say, but I document any failure that I hear of regardless if it is a customer of mine, and as I said above in the quote I have multiple dealerships that are reporting issues to me with these vehicles just so I can stay ahead.

Yea, this has me thinking I should just install the TSB pcv that has been sitting in my garage

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[Tune+]

You didn't answer my question though, are you on their off the shelf check valve?

 

[Sup3rPat]

You didn't answer my question though, are you on their off the shelf check valve?

Yes

 

[Diablocoastie]

Some people said Rotella T6awhile back, is that still ok?

 

[ronv95]

Some people said Rotella T6awhile back, is that still ok?

All I have ever used and no issues 33k+ miles change every 4-5k.

 

[Juben]

The original ultra was rated by Pennzoil at something like 8 for NOACK if I remember correctly. When they changed the formulation, it went up significantly. I think it has something to do with the additive package they use. Didn't realize you'd stocked up on the old stuff. Now the question is: why did they change the formulation? Was there a problem with the oil or a problem with production at the refinery?

The Calcium levels in the Ford blend are pretty high as well. That and the NOACK values will keep me from recommending it for direct injection and EcoBoost engines going forward. My guess is there will be a new standard out shortly with reduced Calcium as the main difference. I noticed that some of the newer oil formulations are reducing Calcium significantly and supplementing the CA with Magnesium. The Mobil 1 in my wife's car is one of those.

Oh well. Time to do some more research on BITOG.

My NOACK on the PU has always been right around a low-7. I'd say the NOACK has increased due to the new additive package, but I will find that out tomorrow. I have a connection at Shell that I'll reach out to. I stocked up on the old stuff a while back, then when they started clearancing it out, I bought up even more which will be enough to get me to 90k miles.

The Ford oil would do fine in a NA engine, but I wouldn't recommend it for anything EB either.

What M1 do you use, the EP or standard? It seems like opinions vary greatly on it, but I'd like to see some information on the newer formulations. I guess I have some more research to keep me busy when I have some down time too.

I use 20w Red Line in my NHRA Stocker, and there 5W in the NHRA Comp elim V6 dragster, and the 10-40 Red Line in the Ecoboost. Red Line has never let me down on my race car stuff, so it went into the Ecoboost right away, not due to your findings, but just because its a great oil.

Red Line is nearly impossible to find down here where I recently moved to. One place had it back home in Virginia, but they wanted $14 a quart for it and wouldn't budge on pricing (small town, I guess). If the pricing was anywhere close to the PU, I'd already have been running it. As mentioned above, I got some killer pricing on the old formulation of PU ($4/quart), so I bought a few hundred dollars worth. :clap2:

 

[NothernVAMustang]

can we have this thread moved to the repair section on this forum.

 

[Juben]

Some people said Rotella T6awhile back, is that still ok?

Rotella is a good oil for a great price. The NOACK is around a 12.5-12.8, if memory serves me correctly. I do remember that it was low in calcium (around 800) and higher in zinc and phosphorous. I wish the NOACK was lower on it, but overall, I wouldn't really have concerns with running it and have ran it in multiple vehicles over the years.

 

[Scott Wilson]

I posted this on Facebook but here yea go for all the "I think the build date has something to do with it" people.

Build Date Nov 2014...

I have been installing the meth kit so I went ahead and looked at the TB. I have been tuned by Adam since 3k way back in 2015 and had a catch can since 10k. Did the pcv delete at 18k and now going on 30k. My tb is bone dry and I've put 7k on big turbo on 93. I think this is a good testament among many cars out there that the eco is tuff when tuned and maintained properly. I change my oil every 3k Rotella t6 and I see this car lasting a long time.

2nd image is a cold compression test and 18k mi plugs.

 

[Weather Man]

I see modified catch cans being mentioned as possible contributing factors to ecoboost engine failure. I am curious why a completely separate catch can/breather that eliminates all oil vapor from the intake is not used more. Or is it simply the guys don't take that step until they are more heavily modified?

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