Okay I found it's TA-30 and here's the link to the instructions, I believe it's for a 2011, that's why some things were not accurate for our engine. http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=828&viewfile=Engine Front Cover.pdfDid you use TA-30 or TA-31 sealant? I'm about to do this install
Says $10.95 now ... might have to do this. Do they download as PDF files, or do you have to make/print your own PDFs (ie, print with Google Chrome)?https://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/retail/default.asp?pageid=&gutsid=
$15 gets you 72 hours and unlimited printing ;)
I print to file, which in Internet Explorer is XPS, Mozilla/Chrome is PDF.Says $10.95 now ... might have to do this. Do they download as PDF files, or do you have to make/print your own PDFs (ie, print with Google Chrome)?
Others will know more about the specifics than I do. I applied Old School knowledge, while turning the crank in a clockwise rotation I watched the #1 intake valves (passenger side up front) when they opened and on their way closed (compression stroke) I knew that when the crankshaft key made it's way to the 12 o'clock position that would be TDC (top dead center) for #1 cylinder. Never did both of my cams' data matrix face up at the same time. It took several rotations to get the colored chain marks to line to line up with the crank mark cam drive marks, and when they did the driver side marks with the dark links where no where near the gear marks, I attribute this to the chains being so long. I would follow what Beefcake and others say as they've been around these engine many years before me, I'm a Newbie.Underneath the VCTs?
When you line up the cams with the data matrix UP does that set TDC on #1?
Are the timing marks on the VCT and link going to match up?
That could be true, just remember 12 o'clock happens twice, once for compression and once for exhaust. Have your spark plugs out, and as long as you don't move the crank(if you do put it back to the position you had it in, not by making another whole revolution) or the valve springs try to push the cams you'll be good. I used witeout to mark my drivers side chain & gears, this way if the springs rotated the cams, I'd have a reference point to go back to. I did take the time to make the colored links line up on the passenger side before removing then I used the witeout for the drivers side where they sat at that point. If you look through my pics you'll see the witeout on the drivers side chain & cam gear and the crank gear, which I had to transfer the witeout on the stock crank gear to the new MMR crank gear.So once that crank is at 12 and both dark links match the timing gear marks, it sounds like people are essentially just creating there own index marks for the cam side.
Exactly.That could be true, just remember 12 o'clock happens twice, once for compression and once for exhaust. Have your spark plugs out, and as long as you don't move the crank(if you do put it back to the position you had it in, not by making another whole revolution) or the valve springs try to push the cams you'll be good. I used witeout to mark my drivers side chain & gears, this way if the springs rotated the cams, I'd have a reference point to go back to. I did take the time to make the colored links line up on the passenger side before removing then I used the witeout for the drivers side where they sat at that point. If you look through my pics you'll see the witeout on the drivers side chain & cam gear and the crank gear, which I had to transfer the witeout on the stock crank gear to the new MMR crank gear.
Believe me I dreaded this but it's really easier than you would think.RB.
How did you install the A/C belt?