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Missed 3-4 shift, car will not start now

King6G

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Was cruising and decided to do a pull in paddle mode, roll race tune. Eased then floored it, but lost traction and let off. Gas pedal had no acceleration in 4th after and couldn’t shift. No lights came on. Now when I start the car, it cranks for one second (factory boost gauge goes to 7psi, VAC 0) then stops and the dash resets.

I’ve tried to: Reflash tune | Flash stock tune then reflash tune | Clear codes, start | Disconnect battery, start | Check engine fuses

Note: When I open the door I used to hear a sound near the BAP activate, but now it’s silent.
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MyStang

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Pull your battery and have it load tested. Check all ground locations. Sounds like your alternator or battery has a short. Something is putting large drain on your electrical system.
 

Zrussian13

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That noise you hear when opening the door is the fuel pump priming. If you aren't hearing it anymore check your fuel pump.
 

Skye

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Gas pedal had no acceleration in 4th after and couldn’t shift. No lights came on.

Now when I start the car, it cranks for one second (factory boost gauge goes to 7psi, VAC 0) then stops and the dash resets.
What happened between those statements? Did the car respond normally afterwards on the drive home?

When an attempted start fails, are any codes recorded?

Can you put the car in accessory mode and check voltage in dash? Or can you check battery voltage with an external meter?

Edit,

I'm not saying this is what your problem is, but it could provide perspective. Another member who drove their car hard lost their alternator. The thing seized up one day. Froze completely. If you lost your alternator and drove like that for a while, it could have drained the battery.

Agree with others. Check and clear battery before going further.
 
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King6G

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What happened between those statements? Did the car respond normally afterwards on the drive home?

When an attempted start fails, are any codes recorded?

Can you put the car in accessory mode and check voltage in dash? Or can you check battery voltage with an external meter?

Edit,

I'm not saying this is what your problem is, but it could provide perspective. Another member who drove their car hard lost their alternator. The thing seized up one day. Froze completely. If you lost your alternator and drove on that for a while, it could have drained the battery.

Agree with others. Check and clear battery before going further.
I slowed down and stopped in the middle of the road since I had no acceleration. Cut the car off, and tried to start a few times regular, and with jump starter. Starts for one second the rpm’s fall to 0. I got towed home.

The codes are what I posted in the pdf.

Accessory mode yes. Read 11 at one point on dash.

Interesting, thanks!
 
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King6G

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That noise you hear when opening the door is the fuel pump priming. If you aren't hearing it anymore check your fuel pump.
Thought so. Been diagnosing with an almost drained battery. Letting it charge and will check some more.
 

Cobra Jet

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King6G

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Clutch pedal or brake pedal bumpers deteriorated or missing. It’s a known issue, Ford issued a. NHTSA recall and if either is deteriorated or missing it will cause non-start or drivability issues with the car.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...edal-bumper-nhtsa-recall.172153/#post-3670904

and
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/brake-light-switch-near-pedal-failure.122100/
Also, wondering if it has to do with
NHTSA: #25V455
Recall: #25S75 LOW PRESSURE FUEL PUMP FAILURE.

When I get a dtc report from my mpvi3, the fuel system is red now. Looking at my older reports it was blue.
 

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King6G

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Still haven’t got that fuel priming sound yet. Replaced fuel pump, swapped fuses and relays.

My old reports showed the fuel system highlighted blue.

Tried to start on stock tune. No bap plugged in. Have a flat layer of smoke coming from exhaust.
 

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King6G

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jheissjr

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I assume you checked and see power at the fuel pump connector because you replaced the fuel pump. Correct? Two options for a loss communication is loss of power at the module(s) or a fault in the can bus wiring. I suggest getting a wiring diagram and locating what they share in common. For example do they share the same wiring harness, a fuse, one of the three can busses, same power relay, same signal relay? One of the can busses might also be down. An oscilloscope is used to check the can buses. You can also check the modules have power one by one. That requires a wiring diagram for connector pinouts.
 
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King6G

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Update!

It turns out one of my plastic tubes with the MAF on it had blown/disconnected from the rubber tube going to the throttle body. I pushed it in tighter and clamped it down, now I'm back running! It probably happened at the same time as the incident, and I just overlooked it.
2E4C6628-4857-482E-9C67-867438753931_1_105_c.webp
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