Method for tightening strut nut

[GTP]

TLDR
Use Crescent 13/16 spark plug socket, Capri 10mm 3/8 drive socket (on 3/8 extension slipped through the 13/16 socket), 7/8 crowsfoot, and torque wrench to tighten the strut nut to 60 ft-lb. See first two photos.

Keep the crowsfoot at right angle with the torque wrench so that the torque value remains correct. I tightened to 50#, and then again to 60#. I got too nervous to try for the 75# spec because I worried about the 10mm socket and strut shaft giving out somehow. Yes, I am aware of the impact wrench method.

Background
I tried this setup with a store-bought spark plug socket (3/8 drive) and 1/4 extension through it. 40# torque was OK. 50# sheared the extension at the square end. So I repeated the idea but with 1/2 drive spark plug socket and 3/8 10mm socket. I bought and tried three different spark plug sockets. Only the Crescent brand spark plug socket had a through hole large enough for a 3/8 extension to pass through. I also ordered 4-5 different sockets in 10mm, 6-point, 3/8 drive shallow (normal depth). The unbranded and Capri brands had the deepest hex for the most engagement with the strut shaft. All sockets had the relieved corners (modern design), and this is important since the strut hex has generously rounded points.

It was my experience that I got no rattling sound with the strut nuts tightened to 40#. A even slightly loose nut generates a distinctive hard metal-on-metal knocking sound from the front of the car.

Note the torque wrench is perpendicular to the crowsfoot for accurate torque value:

Clearer view of the setup:

Socket depth, left to right: Craftsman=6.2mm, Gearwrench=8.8mm, 2-for-1 NoName=10.1mm, Capri=10.9mm.

Result of same method but with 1/4" extension and 50# torque:

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[John S]

Yep, that's the right way to do it. I upgraded to Vorshlag camber plates and I was surprised they used the impact method in their instructions. There is no bolt stretching involved in this fastener joint so the actual torque is probably not critical but not everyone has a feel for a "calibrated" impact wrench so it's best to do it right as you've clearly described.

 

[DRAGOON]

I use this :


https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-362741-schwaben-strut-nut-socket-21mm/

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-8913-mustang-socket-21mm

 

[MD18EcoStang]

I use this :


https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-362741-schwaben-strut-nut-socket-21mm/

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-8913-mustang-socket-21mm

Right, same. Still, kudos to the OP for ingenuity.

 

[GTP]

Right, same. Still, kudos to the OP for ingenuity.

Well, sure, the window socket was my method before too. You can't achieve much torque with a standard 10mm box wrench and it will slip if it is a 12-point.

 

[MD18EcoStang]

Well, sure, the window socket was my method before too. You can't achieve much torque with a standard 10mm box wrench and it will slip if it is a 12-point.

Hmm, now I wonder what torque I actually achieved, since it was a couple/few years ago. I'm generally a "by the book" type person for things like that, so I'll have to see if I can dig up whatever instructions I followed at the time... Can't recall having issues.

 

[kz]

I just used impact in the past (and have bunch of those Steeda sockets because I buy tools when I see them and think they might be useful and not when I actually need them) but I appreciate Phillip's different threads on alignment or things like this.

@GTP - I think it would be useful if there was single pinned thread somewhere with your "tips and tricks".

 

[saleen367]

After 1st failing trying to get it right without a proper torque reading, the electric impact came through and I've never looked back.

 

[Steeda-Sergio]

Clean right up! Thank you.

" electric impact" I'd advise against using power tools when putting the nut on. When you hit it with an impact tool you run the risk of spinning the shaft.

Not using the method mentioned above or similar can lead to shredding of the valve and premature failure.

 

[RobZ71LM7]

I use this :


https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-362741-schwaben-strut-nut-socket-21mm/

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-8913-mustang-socket-21mm

I've used the same sockets from Steeda but couldn't get adequate torque since you are limited by a 12pt wrench. My method I told @GTP while he was developing his is this: 1/4" 6pt socket with extension that a 1/2" drive impact socket goes over. I torque the nut with a pipe wrench on the impact socket and use a long handled 1/4" ratchet to balance torque. That being said the 1/4" limits you as well, just not as much as a 12pt wrench. I still hit it a little with my dewalt 3/8" impact at end careful to minimize shaft spinning. @GTP has really shown the best method to do this work.

If someone has a 12pt wrench that can handle 70+ ft-lbs without slipping on the hex I would love to buy a set.

 

[petronix]

I use the open sided socket and two wrenchs stacked on the shaft. Still wouldn't hold to prescribed torque though.

That is a good-n-tight torque spec fastener to me. Tight enoough not to clunk or loosen up is good enough there.

Even with "proper" tools, I had to use battery impact to loosen it for spring swap / camber plate install.

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