Lug Nuts Compatibility

[Epiphany]

The answer I got from [email protected] when asking was:
"Thank you for contacting us in regards to your inquiry on the MONSTER LUG NUTS in M14x1.50
We recommend that the Torque spec is 90 - 95 ft lbs."

At that point you should be asking "what test methodology was employed in reaching that conclusion?"

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[XeninWorX]

My Hondas were/are 80 ft/lbs. Same bolt pattern. Much smaller hub though and ball nose lug nuts. I’d guess it’s a power thing.

 

[Elp_jc]

OK, that's settled then. I won't use them.

Buy the black Gorilla 61148BCXs many of us bought, which are basically the same size as stock. And they have an even wider contact area, so at least they clamp as good as OEMs... and they'll never swell . I replaced them since day 1, and threw the crap OEMs away. Hope this helps. By the way, I torqued mine to 120 ft/lbs, which is still the highest torque I have ever used on wheels, and since I won't ever race at Paris Dakar, or LeMans, no need for more IMO.

 

[Carzzi]

I've used Dorman lugs for the last couple of years on mine. I like the look.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HPTTRV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_MwiJfyH1UwysK

 

[XeninWorX]

I've used Dorman lugs for the last couple of years on mine. I like the look.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HPTTRV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_MwiJfyH1UwysK

I’ve seen those. They have a cap that you can replace with a different colour right?

 

[kz]

Not familiar with them swelling. Can you give me some more insight about the issue?

See NightmareMoon's reply - and this https://www.google.com/search?q=for...7j69i57j0l6.5407j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

[kz]

Are you sure about that? The answer I got from [email protected] when asking was:

"Thank you for contacting us in regards to your inquiry on the MONSTER LUG NUTS in M14x1.50

We recommend that the Torque spec is 90 - 95 ft lbs.

I understand the Mustang is 120+ but we recommend 90 ??? 95 with the conical seating."

Whoever this guy is, he has no fundamental understanding of how bolted joint works.

 

[Carzzi]

I’ve seen those. They have a cap that you can replace with a different colour right?

Yes, the cap inserts are black as shipped, but colored variants can be ordered afterwards.

 

[Vlad Soare]

Sorry about the 204, I should have done the conversion myself and said 150 ft*lb.
My torque wrench goes up to 155 ft*lb, so it's OK, I can torque them to the specified value, but it does take some effort when you're just 11 stone.
While I have no problem challenging manufacturers' decisions when appropriate, in this case I feel that their recommendation is correct, so I'm going with it.

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

At that point you should be asking "what test methodology was employed in reaching that conclusion?"

Actually I did, but I did not get a reply. I'll try asking again.

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

You will find this conversation in a number of threads on this forum.

Here's three of them.........

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/wheel-installation-torque.78518/

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/150ft-pound-torque-lug-nuts-a-pain-to-break.146686/

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...rque-is-insane-huge-doubts-from-europe.40770/

It's Ford's car so I would go by Ford's spec which is 150 for OEM wheels.

Of course, feel free to do whatever you want........

Thanks, that was some interesting reading. I'm not stupid enough to use my own "this should be fine" torque setting in lieu of one from the manufacturer just for fun, but in this case, there are two two manufacturers with conflicting recommendations (Mackin Industries for the lug nuts, and Ford for the studs and wheels).

Obviously the wheels and studs must withstand the Ford specified torque, but it's not obvious to me the third-party lug nuts will too. I've emailed Mackin again, since I did not get an answer last time on why their recommendations differs from Ford. Will update here when I get the answer.

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

At that point you should be asking "what test methodology was employed in reaching that conclusion?"

Actually I did, but I did not get a reply. I'll try asking again.

Unfortunately it seems I will not be getting any confidence inspiring answer regarding the Monster lug nuts.

I've sent them a handful of requests, and in reply they upped the recommendation from 90-95 ft lbs to 85-120 ft lbs. As to why that is still a lot lower than what Ford specifies, the last answer I got was that it was "so you wont have any stripped studs or lug nuts when tracking your car and removing wheels more frequently than just daily driving your car and only taking lugs off for tire rotations every once in a while. The specified torque spec from manufacturer is max torque that can be used on a lug nut when not being removed as often. ". From "Tony Rodriguez <[email protected]>".

I thought that sounded a bit silly, so I replied that "Ford does not list any alternative torque for the Mustang in case of taking wheels frequently off and on as far as I know." and asked for some clarification on how they had determined that this lower torque was correct to use on the Mustang, but even though I've tried more than once, I have not got any further reply.

I've re-torqued up to 120 ft lbs for now, up from the max of 95 that I got first time I asked a month ago, but not yet sure what I'll do. a) Throw the Monster lug nuts in the trash and go back to the OEM Ford ones? b) Try to torque the Monster lug nuts to 150 ft lbs first and see if they hold up? Unfortunately I'm not a mechanical engineer, so I'm not sure if them not immediately stripping on the way to 150 ft lbs means they will not strip while going around a corner while driving later. I'm thinking them not stripping immediately means nothing.

I'm thinking I'll do a) and consider the Monster lug nuts as money wasted on nothing, as I can't make sense of what they're saying, though if more knowledgeable people here think differently I'd like to hear it.

 

[NightmareMoon]

The correct torque will be 150ft/lbs for steel lug nuts (like the monsters) and stock studs, just like Ford says. The studs are 14x1.5 and larger than most cars people are used to, and that larger stud does imply a larger than typical torque value. Ford didn't make 150ft/lbs up, if you look that bolt up on a standard engineering chart, you'll see 148ft/lbs for that thread and diameter.

Pretty much the only time you'll lower that is if there is a special coating involved that reduces friction. This is not typical and usually only found with certain aftermarket studs. Lubrication means you will reach that clamping force with a bit less torque required. Unless you know this applies to you, it doesn't.

As someone who has swapped wheels literally over 100 times over the last 5 years, has owned 3 different sets of wheels, and 4 sets of lug nuts, and who autox/tracks regularly - 150ft/llbs keeps them snug for street and track, and you won't be at risk of breaking any studs. Its important to not torque or loosen lugs when the studs are hot such as right after you get off track (let the parts cool first), and don't crossthread anything. That's the only time you're really at risk of breaking something.

 

[mustanghammer]

I think some of you are over thinking a really simple thing. Ford has been using 2 piece lug nuts for years (they were on the 85 Mustang GT I bought in 87) and they suck. The lug nuts on the Ford OE wheels and common aftermarket wheels, unless specified differently, is a straight 60 degree tapper. So finding replacement lug nuts is easy.

I bough a set of one piece chrome steel lug nuts that are slightly longer than stock off of eBay for $19.50 back in 2018. They work just fine on the OE wheels and the aftermarket wheels I use for autox. I have probably taken them on and off the car several dozen times without issue.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/24-CHROME-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

I think some of you are over thinking a really simple thing. Ford has been using 2 piece lug nuts for years (they were on the 85 Mustang GT I bought in 87) and they suck. The lug nuts on the Ford OE wheels and common aftermarket wheels, unless specified differently, is a straight 60 degree tapper. So finding replacement lug nuts is easy.

I bough a set of one piece chrome steel lug nuts that are slightly longer than stock off of eBay for $19.50 back in 2018. They work just fine on the OE wheels and the aftermarket wheels I use for autox. I have probably taken them on and off the car several dozen times without issue.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/24-CHROME-1-88-TALL-AMERICAN-RACING-AR-TRUCK-LUG-NUTS-WHEEL-RIM-SET-14MM-1-5/192497331945?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

And you torque them to 150 ft lbs I assume?

It is not a given that any given lug nut will bear any given pressure.

Mackin Industries, when asked, say the max torque for their Monster lug nuts is 120 ft lbs (up from 95 ft lbs, which is what their packaging says).

If I torque to 120 and a wheel falls off due to the lug nuts shaking loose, can I blame Ford? No, Ford says I should use 150 ft lbs. WTF does the 120 number come from they will, rightfully, ask.

If I torque to 150 ft lbs and a wheel falls off due to the Monster lug nuts stripping due to the pressure, can I blame Mackin Industries and their Monster lug nuts? No, they only rate their Monster lug nuts for up to 120 ft lbs. At 150 ft lbs, they will shrug they shoulders and and say I over tightened them.

In the end I simply asked them if I could torque their Monster lug nuts to 150 ft lbs, as specified for the Mustang, but they did not answer.

Their answers, including "The specified torque spec from manufacturer is max torque that can be used on a lug nut when not being removed as often." did not make any sense to me, and I do not feel safe using the Monster lug nuts.

Anyone want to buy a set of used Monster lug nuts, colour blue?

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