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Lowering springs!

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Cordero1

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Vic, please tell us what springs/dampers you chose and after driving on them your feedback.
Will do. It will take me a bit. I work 12 hour shifts & only have time to work on it a little while at a time. When I get home Ill be adding the same side subframe brace & then moving on to the next side.
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These are the minumum drop ones from Steeda.
 

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Will do. It will take me a bit. I work 12 hour shifts & only have time to work on it a little while at a time. When I get home Ill be adding the same side subframe brace & then moving on to the next side.
Don't forget to get an alignment and have them clock the bushings.
Post some pics too! Side shot. Let's see how she sits after.
 
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Don't forget to get an alignment and have them clock the bushings.
Post some pics too! Side shot. Let's see how she sits after.
Sorry for my ignorance, but what do you mean clock the bushings? I will have pics in a couple of days when I get done. Finally have a few days off after today.
 

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Sorry for my ignorance, but what do you mean clock the bushings? I will have pics in a couple of days when I get done. Finally have a few days off after today.
After lowering springs are installed, certain suspension hardware must be loosened and re-torqued while the weight of the car is supported by the wheels. Usually done on a drive on rack. This releases the tension from the suspension components when the ride height has changed. Your alignment shop will need to do this.
 

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After lowering springs are installed, certain suspension hardware must be loosened and re-torqued while the weight of the car is supported by the wheels. Usually done on a drive on rack. This releases the tension from the suspension components when the ride height has changed. Your alignment shop will need to do this.
Oh ok. So I need to retorque with load on the car. I should be able to do this myself then. I have 2 metal stands & 2 wooden stacks that I use for my cars for when I do jobs like the clutch or trans. Cant seem to find a pic of the metal ones but got one of the wooden ones. Thanks for the tip good sir!

20190219_104232.webp
 

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Oh ok. So I need to retorque with load on the car. I should be able to do this myself then. I have 2 metal stands & 2 wooden stacks that I use for my cars for when I do jobs like the clutch or trans. Cant seem to find a pic of the metal ones but got one of the wooden ones. Thanks for the tip good sir!

20190219_104232.webp
That would do it!

Here's more info in this post and an illustration of what needs to be re-torqued and to how much.
GT Suspension Torque Numbers
 
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That would do it!

Here's more info in this post and an illustration of what needs to be re-torqued and to how much.
GT Suspension Torque Numbers
Awesome, I will read into this when I get to that point. I will also ask my alignment shop if it is included in the alignment price & just let them do it. They are very fairly priced & the owner loves it when I bring in my cars. She goes as far as not letting anyone else drive the cars but herself lol. Thanks again!
 
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your alignment shop is clueless. They'll look at you like you're crazy.
go read the thread and print it out the diagrams.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...hose-bushings-after-lowering-your-s550.44129/
Quick question. Just read through the 1st page. Does this only apply to the spots I loosened in the installation process? The front just swapped the springs so nothing else was done. The rear I added support bushings & alignment pins. So are them the only ones I should clock in with load on. Thanks in advance, gotta get back to it.
 

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have them do it ALL. the factory bolts everything together at full extension so it's wrong from day 0.
 
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Right on! Will do. And being Im a paranoid fool, Ill probably ask them to & either stay there & watch them, or just come home, & do it myself with load on. Thanks!
 

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Humm..I am not liking my new to me new car , 15’ with the red eibachs, too low..and this thread is making my back sore already..ugh..lol
 
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Yeah I did a lot of reading before my purchase of the minimum drop springs. My '14 would scrape just about anywhere. It was ok with Eibach progressives, but once whippled & Gt500 bmr drags springs it was too low. Got worse ride quality wise (my fault) when I added vikings & ARB. Would squeak & creek everywhere. Would have to avoid certain stores & dairy queen due to the dip at the entrance. But, for its intended purpose, the car would get it done. Straight as an arrow on launch, nice & good grip to the ground, weight transfer as it should. When I traded it in, going on the highway & speeds of 70 mph, you would see sparks in rear view mirror from where it would scrape lol. Best advice is, prep your car for its intended purpose. I love a dropped car, they look mean af. But I also like road trips. Minimum drop springs it is.
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