Lowering springs!

[thompsje]

you only need to undo the two rear bolts, then pull down on the hub to install the new spring. Super easy stuff

Are you saying you just remove the 2 rear subframe bolts rather than doing the left and right sides individually? I haven't actually seen that, but it seems much easier.

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[illtal]

Are you saying you just remove the 2 rear subframe bolts rather than doing the left and right sides individually? I haven't actually seen that, but it seems much easier.

So if you remove the rear bolts only, and not the fronts, you don't have to worry about the subframe alignment. you can undo the front as well (on the same side) it will give you more clearance but if you pull down on the hub, you can remove the stock spring easily.

If you can take that out, you can install a shorter spring easily as well.

 

[shogun32]

Are you saying you just remove the 2 rear subframe bolts rather than doing the left and right sides individually? I haven't actually seen that, but it seems much easier.

the IRS alignment is garbage so I would loosen the fronts a fair bit and the back ones a lot and wrestle the spring in. That way when you're done and are tightening the bolts closer to frame, you remove one in turn and shove BMR/Steeda's alignment sleeves in the hole and now your IRS is ACTUALLY aligned and it's repeatable.

 

[illtal]

the IRS alignment is garbage so I would loosen the fronts a fair bit and the back ones a lot and wrestle the spring in. That way when you're done and are tightening the bolts closer to frame, you remove one in turn and shove BMR/Steeda's alignment sleeves in the hole and now your IRS is ACTUALLY aligned and it's repeatable.

There are alignment sleeves out there. Those are needed if you move the IRS subframe around because you will lose your wheel alignment as well. I have also installed billet camber arms, to get the camber I want without messing with the other settings. Highly recommend if you are raising and lowering the car.

 

[Cordero1]

There are alignment sleeves out there. Those are needed if you move the IRS subframe around because you will lose your wheel alignment as well. I have also installed billet camber arms, to get the camber I want without messing with the other settings. Highly recommend if you are raising and lowering the car.

I will have to look into those. I did the aligment sleeves as stated above.

 

[illtal]

I will have to look into those. I did the aligment sleeves as stated above.

I need to get an alignment, I went with the Steeda Drag rear spring and Vi-King handling shocks, and the car drives like a freaking dream. Only problem is I have a bit more camber on one side than the other in the rear. I also have ISC front coilovers which are really good, now that I have more Ride height. I had the car aligned when it was super low. I'm going to buy the toe link as well and hopefully see a track day soon.

 

[thompsje]

the IRS alignment is garbage so I would loosen the fronts a fair bit and the back ones a lot and wrestle the spring in. That way when you're done and are tightening the bolts closer to frame, you remove one in turn and shove BMR/Steeda's alignment sleeves in the hole and now your IRS is ACTUALLY aligned and it's repeatable.

I've already got the BMR CB005 kit installed, which doesn't seem to really allow for a lot of mis-alignment in itself from what I've read. I'll try just pulling the rears and probably the 13mm bolts on the fronts for little bit more freedom.

I have a 2018 so it's got the "typical" problem of the left front subframe bolt being at an angle from the factory. That one took me 30 minutes to get back in when I did the CB005 install, so the less I touch that bolt the better. I don't want to have to re-tap it if I could just leave it alone.

 

[Cordero1]

I need to get an alignment, I went with the Steeda Drag rear spring and Vi-King handling shocks, and the car drives like a freaking dream. Only problem is I have a bit more camber on one side than the other in the rear. I also have ISC front coilovers which are really good, now that I have more Ride height. I had the car aligned when it was super low. I'm going to buy the toe link as well and hopefully see a track day soon.

I have yet to align mine. Drives much better & less floaty through back roads & higher speeds now. Im in no hurry since its only a weekend toy, closest track is 4 hr trip. Also just replaced my axles on my daily beater & about to do the same to the wifey's jeep. So those alignments will come 1st. A tune would be the next thing I would like most. Just waiting on a hp tuning device to pop up for sale. Missed the last one.

 

[Mustangfreek]

So to recap , this is the Steeda Minimum drop kit?

Im doing something soon, sport lines are too low for my taste( how I got the car)

Are camber plates needed or can you get away with the offset bolts?

 

[illtal]

So to recap , this is the Steeda Minimum drop kit?

Im doing something soon, sport lines are too low for my taste( how I got the car)

Are camber plates needed or can you get away with the offset bolts?

If you go with minimum drop you can get away with the stock adjustments.
I have camber adjustment front and rear, in case I would like to run a bit more camber whenever I get to the track. there are a lot of good springs out there

 

[Mustangfreek]

Ya , that’s the problem. Too many

lol..I picked up a 15’ couple months ago after a decent hunt for a black/stick car and it had Eibach sportlines and its low.

Exhaust has scrapped a bunch on the corrugated piece on pass. Side and along with the poke bugged me

So sold the wheels and just got in a set of AM PP wheels and waiting on another order with lugs to set it down, but quick mock up and it’s gonna be low as Shi+ still.

There 1.5/f and 1.3” rear

So looking for something in between that and stock

 

[illtal]

Ya , that’s the problem. Too many

lol..I picked up a 15’ couple months ago after a decent hunt for a black/stick car and it had Eibach sportlines and its low.

Exhaust has scrapped a bunch on the corrugated piece on pass. Side and along with the poke bugged me

So sold the wheels and just got in a set of AM PP wheels and waiting on another order with lugs to set it down, but quick mock up and it’s gonna be low as Shi+ still.

There 1.5/f and 1.3” rear

So looking for something in between that and stock

You could use a taller series tire to get some of that ride height back, but If your looking at springs most of steeda spring kits are .5" drop or less.

 

[Cordero1]

So to recap , this is the Steeda Minimum drop kit?

Im doing something soon, sport lines are too low for my taste( how I got the car)

Are camber plates needed or can you get away with the offset bolts?

Yes it is the minimum drop springs & other than the stop the hop starter kit, no camber plates or bolts were added yet. Figured Id add those when I replace the struts/shocks. Probably go back to BMR for the rest of my parts or try a different company. I like how BMR atleast sends instructions in the box & update them with current years.

 

[Cordero1]

Also although I did lose wheel gap, ride height stayed the same due to using a bigger series tire as stated above. Was gonna go with 305/30-20 but ended up going with 305/35-20 & 285/35-20. Wanted to keep a comfortable drive.

 

[Mustangfreek]

You could use a taller series tire to get some of that ride height back, but If your looking at springs most of steeda spring kits are .5" drop or less.

I got no room. With a 275/35 before , I could t get my pinkie between tire and fender and old owner gave it the poke look , so tires were under lip and was hitting

so dropped go a 305/20 and AM PP wheel, just waiting for lug nuts to set it down abs assess.

Also noticed. Stress has billet Shims so to speak, that go on top of the springs to fine tune it in. I might go that way. But still looks like a pain in the asap to loosen all up and slide then in

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-billet-rear-spring-spacer-1-4-inch-555-8251.html

Yes it is the minimum drop springs & other than the stop the hop starter kit, no camber plates or bolts were added yet. Figured Id add those when I replace the struts/shocks. Probably go back to BMR for the rest of my parts or try a different company. I like how BMR atleast sends instructions in the box & update them with current years.

cool
Interested to see how it looks once on the ground
I just fixed/got new tires/wheels, see above reply. And looking at fine tuning my setup

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