Lowering springs!

[Cordero1]

Pro tip: kicking, whinning, & crying like a lil B wont help. Patience is key, also small breaks in between. I was about to make a rig to hook on to the calipers & push down with my knees & body weight. But almost got it.

Sponsored

 

[Cordero1]

Be very careful with bushing supports. Passenger side a little tougher to get in. My dumb ass tapped it lightly & this was the result. Rettaping threads now.

 

[Cordero1]

Anyone compress their own springs? I have these this far but still dont seem like its enough & the all thread is starting to rub on the base.

 

[Cordero1]

Big diff in length for a half inch drop.

 

[thompsje]

Ford seems to have a monopoly on cross threading bolts. I need to be super careful with everything. Only thread by hand for at least 3 full turns. Pretty sure that's because a lot of the assembly bolts are self tapping, so they don't care what angle they go in at.

Also, I think the reclocking bushing things doesn't need to be that hard. If you have the car on stands just jack each corner on the brake rotor until it just begins to lift of the stand. Then torque to spec. Probably a good idea to disconnect the sway bar, but you should be good from there. It's not the space shuttle.

 

[Cordero1]

Ford seems to have a monopoly on cross threading bolts. I need to be super careful with everything. Only thread by hand for at least 3 full turns. Pretty sure that's because a lot of the assembly bolts are self tapping, so they don't care what angle they go in at.

Also, I think the reclocking bushing things doesn't need to be that hard. If you have the car on stands just jack each corner on the brake rotor until it just begins to lift of the stand. Then torque to spec. Probably a good idea to disconnect the sway bar, but you should be good from there. It's not the space shuttle.

Yeah I have it all together back in the rear. Just having an issue putting the new springs on the stock front shoks/strut. My cheap HF spring compressor hits on the bottom base & wont let it thread. Looking into auto parts stores for the free rental tool but they seem to lend out the same compressors I have. Aligment shop is closed for the weekend so I might be s.o.l

 

[Cordero1]

Went inside & took a little break & dinner. Came back out & this seems like it will do the job.

 

[Cordero1]

Did I put this back on the correct side? I got them mixed up on the floor.

 

[Cordero1]

Only wondering because when wheel is on it looks a little too close. Or maybe I just didnt put attention to it when I removed it. Maybe wrong offset.

 

[Cordero1]

I ended up with a real bad rattle on front driver side. Dont know what it could be. Went through the search option & from what I read it might be the top nut for the strut. Says to tighten to 75 ft lbs. How would I go about doing this when it just spins & the part you use to keep it steady is covered by the socket you are tightening with?? Ill torque the tip I take it. Ill try that next. Sorry for the many dumb questions by the way.

 

[Sevensixteen]

I ended up with a real bad rattle on front driver side. Dont know what it could be. Went through the search option & from what I read it might be the top nut for the strut. Says to tighten to 75 ft lbs. How would I go about doing this when it just spins & the part you use to keep it steady is covered by the socket you are tightening with?? Ill torque the tip I take it. Ill try that next. Sorry for the many dumb questions by the way.

the only dumb question is the one that’s never asked, get the steeda strut socket

 

[Cordero1]

the only dumb question is the one that’s never asked, get the steeda strut socket

I got it. Just stuck a 10mm socket through a 21mm socket & held it with pliers as I turned the torque wrench. Will get the socket for the next time. It was the issue & the rattle stopped. Thanks for your input!

 

[illtal]

I ran into this issue this last week. I had strut completely off, swaybar disconnected, camber arm off, ride height sensor removed, and I still couldn't get the arm low enough. The axle wasn't hitting, but something was holding it back. I didn't need to get the spring out, so I didn't investigate too much, just though wow, this is going to be an issue when I get new springs.

I am interested to see what you find out. I plan to do FP springs this year, so in for the answers!

you only need to undo the two rear bolts, then pull down on the hub to install the new spring. Super easy stuff

 

[Doug V]

I'm in the process of installing some Steeda lowering springs. Got the front off & ready to go to the shop to have the new springs pressed on. But Im having a hell of a time doing the rear. I removed the 2 main subframe bolts along with the braket, 2 strut bolts, rear sway bar link nut & started to lower the jack but still not even close to enough room to pull out the spring. Do I have to completely remove the exhaust to get it to go lower? It looks like the sway bar is hitting on it. No where on the instructions does it call for that. Ive watched a few CJ videos & others & not one shows you having to do that. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Called Steeda, but they also said it should only have to be the 2 subframe bolts & 2 strut bolts.

I when I changed my rear springs using all the videos and instructions I could find, I took half the day on one side of rear. Hours removing then hours trying to install. Once I figured it out the other side was about 30-40 minutes. Try rotating the spring. There is what I would call a pig tail that fits in the spring pocket. This may give you the little bit of extra clearance to remove and install. It worked for me. It made it so much easier that I don't know why someone else hasn't mentioned it. Just make sure the spring is correctly seated before you reinstall all the bolts.

 

[Cordero1]

I when I changed my rear springs using all the videos and instructions I could find, I took half the day on one side of rear. Hours removing then hours trying to install. Once I figured it out the other side was about 30-40 minutes. Try rotating the spring. There is what I would call a pig tail that fits in the spring pocket. This may give you the little bit of extra clearance to remove and install. It worked for me. It made it so much easier that I don't know why someone else hasn't mentioned it. Just make sure the spring is correctly seated before you reinstall all the bolts.

Yeah thats what helped me. I spiraled it out from the part you circled. What I was finding confusing was how easy they made it look on every video. I spinned it out while putting my weight on the brake rotor & pushing off the wheel well. Its all said & done now. I like the height it dropped & it kept the same ride comfort it has as o.e. Thanks for your input sir.

Sponsored