Lowering springs for GT500

[Flyhalf]

CFTP springs on a Base car. Works for me.

What wing?

Sponsored

 

[Tonymustang302]

What wing?

Get your butt over to TMO and start a build thread lol

 

[Epiphany]

What wing?

This guy.

 

[Flyhalf]

Get your butt over to TMO and start a build thread lol

Lol hahaha

 

[bent98]

Installed the BMR Springs yesterday on my new 2021 GT500 CFTP. I will be selling my CFTP springs for $250.00 shipped if anyone is interested. Only 150 miles on them.

BMR lowered the car 7/8 more up front and 1/4 more on rear. I will post pics soon.

I am trying to figure out what spring combo to go with to lower my 2021 GT 500 base model. I want to get the car to have even wheel gaps with no front rake which seems to be a challenge on these cars. Your setup seem to be as close as possible to that sweet spot but I have some questions/concerns before pulling the trigger on a setup.

Diego.

I saw that you used a combo of different BMR springs. (lowering and performance)

Part number for FRONT #BMR-SP089 - minimum drop performance springs
Part number for REAR #BMR-SPH767 - GT350 Rear lowering

You stated that the car dropped 7/8 more on the front and 1/4 on rear uaing the CFTP springs as a reference point. If I read this correctly, the implies a significant drop on a base Mustang (Non CFTP) as the springs on a base mode (non-CFTP car) would see 3/4-1" drop all around with switching to the CFTP springs.

I've spoke to Glenn the tech over at BMR and he is advising to go with the GT350 Lowering spring kit part# SPH-765 which consist of SP084 front springs and SPH767 rear springs.

Glenn said that installing the SP089 spring on GT500 will only make the front drop 1/4"and is saying the the front will never drop 1-1.5" on a base mustang and is advise against the

He is saying the SP084 springs in the front will drop car by 3/4-7/8" on base model and only 1/4" on base model.

Can you please shed some light on this? I need to make a decision on which way to go, BMR or MSS setup that's fully adjustable but hate to spend $1,300 when BMR springs are 1/4 of the price. I don't want to put BMR springs in if I cant get a even ride and wheel gap. Can you please advise on why the BMR tech is so adamant about setting the proper expectations?

Also, if possible, can you please let me know how many inches from ground is your splitter and what measurements are from ground to the fender gap ?

 

[kcobra]

I am trying to figure out what spring combo to go with to lower my 2021 GT 500 base model. I want to get the car to have even wheel gaps with no front rake which seems to be a challenge on these cars. Your setup seem to be as close as possible to that sweet spot but I have some questions/concerns before pulling the trigger on a setup.

Diego.

I saw that you used a combo of different BMR springs. (lowering and performance)

Part number for FRONT #BMR-SP089 - minimum drop performance springs
Part number for REAR #BMR-SPH767 - GT350 Rear lowering

You stated that the car dropped 7/8 more on the front and 1/4 on rear uaing the CFTP springs as a reference point. If I read this correctly, the implies a significant drop on a base Mustang (Non CFTP) as the springs on a base mode (non-CFTP car) would see 3/4-1" drop all around with switching to the CFTP springs.

I've spoke to Glenn the tech over at BMR and he is advising to go with the GT350 Lowering spring kit part# SPH-765 which consist of SP084 front springs and SPH767 rear springs.

Glenn said that installing the SP089 spring on GT500 will only make the front drop 1/4"and is saying the the front will never drop 1-1.5" on a base mustang and is advise against the

He is saying the SP084 springs in the front will drop car by 3/4-7/8" on base model and only 1/4" on base model.

Can you please shed some light on this? I need to make a decision on which way to go, BMR or MSS setup that's fully adjustable but hate to spend $1,300 when BMR springs are 1/4 of the price. I don't want to put BMR springs in if I cant get a even ride and wheel gap. Can you please advise on why the BMR tech is so adamant about setting the proper expectations?

Also, if possible, can you please let me know how many inches from ground is your splitter and what measurements are from ground to the fender gap ?

I recently wanted to drop the front on my base car. I called BMR and he advised SP-089Rs. I purchased them. When trying to install them, they didn't fit in the strut perch well. The factory ones are oblong and the BMR's are perfectly round. They didn't set well in the rubber isolator on the bottom. I decided that I won't install this on my $80k Shelby. I called them to explain and they gave me a RMA#. I had to pay shipping back and they even charged me a re-stocking fee. I wasn't impressed. I told them they didn't fit properly and they didn't seem to give a shit. I am done with BMR! I will be purchasing the CFTP front springs, which should fit properly.

 

[Evolvd]

I recently wanted to drop the front on my base car. I called BMR and he advised SP-089Rs. I purchased them. When trying to install them, they didn't fit in the strut perch well. The factory ones are oblong and the BMR's are perfectly round. They didn't set well in the rubber isolator on the bottom. I decided that I won't install this on my $80k Shelby. I called them to explain and they gave me a RMA#. I had to pay shipping back and they even charged me a re-stocking fee. I wasn't impressed. I told them they didn't fit properly and they didn't seem to give a shit. I am done with BMR! I will be purchasing the CFTP front springs, which should fit properly.

They’ll fit, once you put the car back on the ground the isolator bushings will squeeze into the spring opening and it will be seated correctly. I have the BMR front springs on my car.

 

[Inthehighdesert]

I’ve always had great luck with BMR. I really liked the way there springs rode.

They’ll fit, once you put the car back on the ground the isolator bushings will squeeze into the spring opening and it will be seated correctly. I have the BMR front springs on my car.

 

[ford20]

From what I have gathered from this and other threads, my understanding is the CFTP springs really seem like the way to go if you are interested int he dual function of lowering and track performance. The BMR springs aren't all that great on track and the Steeda springs left something to be desired.

It's been a while since I read the thread, so forgive me if I'm misremembering. @Epiphany when you were looking into the CFTP suspension, was your conclusion that the even if you bought all of the hardware, the magnaride programming was still a key difference and trying to buy or find the CFTP shocks wasn't likely worth it? I remember that there was something that was still "missing" for lack of a better term in converting base to CFTP suspension.

 

[Epiphany]

Not worth it, not necessary. Rides and drives just right whether on the street or at the track.

 

[webspoke]

From what I have gathered from this and other threads, my understanding is the CFTP springs really seem like the way to go if you are interested int he dual function of lowering and track performance. The BMR springs aren't all that great on track and the Steeda springs left something to be desired.

It's been a while since I read the thread, so forgive me if I'm misremembering. @Epiphany when you were looking into the CFTP suspension, was your conclusion that the even if you bought all of the hardware, the magnaride programming was still a key difference and trying to buy or find the CFTP shocks wasn't likely worth it? I remember that there was something that was still "missing" for lack of a better term in converting base to CFTP suspension.

I have tried all the springs -
CFTP are fine, only lower the car slightly, are great for mixed roads without any other changes.
BMRs are fine, lower the car the most, and work well on track. Tends to bottom out on big street bumps though, unless you run the magneride in sport mode to slow down the suspension hits.
Steeda springs are stiffer, so bottom out less on the street, and are a bit flatter on track. Also need the magneride to be a bit stiffer. The car sits 1/8-1/4 taller than BMR on the steeda's. - Closer to CFTP height.

Thats why I added a DSC controller, its not essential, but I liked having more tuneability - now my normal mode is basically 'sport' stiffness. If you track a lot, you will like the added firmness in the DSC calibration, the car feels less bouncy, more planted in fast sections.

 

[Gt350procharged]

Thats why I added a DSC controller, its not essential, but I liked having more tuneability - now my normal mode is basically 'sport' stiffness. If you track a lot, you will like the added firmness in the DSC calibration, the car feels less bouncy, more planted in fast sections.

Anyone tried the Steeda pretuned DSC controller? Should be a nice setup considering they track tuned it apparently.

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-40-1020-101-gt500-magneride-controller

 

[Evolvd]

Anyone tried the Steeda pretuned DSC controller? Should be a nice setup considering they track tuned it apparently.

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-40-1020-101-gt500-magneride-controller

I’ve seen some reviews. Most common comment is that it tightens up track response but it’s overly stiff for the streets.

Sponsored