Lowering Spring question

[Bbqman151]

I’m new here. And I need advice please. I’ve searched and can’t find a direct answer to my question. I have recently bought a 2023 Mach 1 and I want to lower it to get rid of the wheel gap. I don’t track the car at all and don’t plan to. I’m looking at Steeda progressives or Eibach Pros. I’ve watched YouTube videos and have searched on here. Some guys say that you have to have camber plates/ bolts, etc. etc. Others in comments say that a good alignment shop can align it with just installing the springs. Do I need all that? Or can I just install the springs, get it aligned, and I’m good? Forgive me if this has been discussed before, but I haven’t found a thread discussing this. Thanks to anyone who can help

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[S550HPP]

My understanding is the ride will degrade if lowered, up to 1/2" needs no other mods, more than that need bumpsteer kit to correct geometry for safety and performance, and cut bumpstops or new ones to accomdate shorter damper stroke.

You will need new struts for anything more than 1/2". Progressives are not highly rated. Eibach Pro is well over 1".

To do this properly incl install and alignment it's 2-3K depending on parts and DIY or shop used and it's rates.

If you cut any corner you will regret running an otherwise excellent ride and handling.

Try some wheel spacers first to get the wheel closer to fender edge this optically closes the gap significantly.

 

[Bbqman151]

My understanding is the ride will degrade if lowered, up to 1/2" needs no other mods, more than that need bumpsteer kit to correct geometry for safety and performance, and cut bumpstops or new ones to accomdate shorter damper stroke.

You will need new struts for anything more than 1/2". Progressives are not highly rated. Eibach Pro is well over 1".

To do this properly incl install and alignment it's 2-3K depending on parts and DIY or shop used and it's rates.

If you cut any corner you will regret running an otherwise excellent ride and handling.

Try some wheel spacers first to get the wheel closer to fender edge this optically closes the gap significantly.

Wow. Ok. I don’t want to do all that. I don’t hate the wheel gap that bad. I appreciate your help.

 

[S550HPP]

I think you'll be happy with some spacers order a few different thickness so you can test fit for looks and function there is some info here on what works without interfering with fender lips.

Better to spend the money on PPF or rock blockers flaps, than shocks and springs....especially the bottom 3rd of middle sides incl qtr panel becUe they will get sprayed with road grit and debris especially with spacers.

 

[Bbqman151]

I think you'll be happy with some spacers order a few different thickness so you can test fit for looks and function there is some info here on what works without interfering with fender lips.

Better to spend the money on PPF or rock blockers flaps, than shocks and springs....especially the bottom 3rd of middle sides incl qtr panel becUe they will get sprayed with road grit and debris especially with spacers.

Yeah, I definitely don’t want to ruin my car just because of wheel gap. I like the look of a lowered Mustang, but I don’t like it enough to spend 2-3k for it. I’ll check the spacers out

 

[S550HPP]

Glad to help.

 

[greasy]

My understanding is the ride will degrade if lowered, up to 1/2" needs no other mods, more than that need bumpsteer kit to correct geometry for safety and performance, and cut bumpstops or new ones to accomdate shorter damper stroke.

You will need new struts for anything more than 1/2". Progressives are not highly rated. Eibach Pro is well over 1".

To do this properly incl install and alignment it's 2-3K depending on parts and DIY or shop used and it's rates.

If you cut any corner you will regret running an otherwise excellent ride and handling.

Try some wheel spacers first to get the wheel closer to fender edge this optically closes the gap significantly.

I respectfully disagree. $2-3K, for doing lowering springs properly? Are you nuts?

 

[D Bergstrom]

Don’t all Mach 1’s have magneride? If so, can’t install new shocks and struts. If not, then new shocks and struts wouldn’t be a bad idea.

As far as alignment, the rear is fully adjustable, front you can only adjust toe. That being said, lowering will add a little camber, not a bad thing. Camber plates would be best, but for a car that will never see the track, you don’t really need plates. If you have a little extra money, get the camber plates just because you have to take the strut apart anyway, shouldn’t be any extra charge to install them.

I installed Ford Performance magneride springs on my 2020 GT PP2, I feel it rides better then stock, would never go back. They lowered my car about 1/2”.

Personally, I see no issue with your plan, get a set of springs, install, align, and enjoy it, as long as you have magneride.

Doug

 

[Geodudes550]

I went up a bit on tire sidewall to lessen the wheel gap rather than lower it. The roads are terrible here and I thought it wiser to go to a bigger tire rather than mess with my suspension.

 

[greasy]

@Bbqman151 does your Mach have the handling package?

There is some terrible information going on in here. You don’t need a bump steer kit. If you have the HP Mach you have Ford camber plates and you’ll be able to get your car within spec. If not you might need to get camber bolts. You also do not need to cut or alter your bump stops, I believe the bump stops are internal on the Magneride struts and shocks. You are way overthinking this in my opinion.

 

[Bbqman151]

I went up a bit on tire sidewall to lessen the wheel gap rather than lower it. The roads are terrible here and I thought it wiser to go to a bigger tire rather than mess with my suspension.

I’ve actually considered doing that as well.

 

[Bbqman151]

@Bbqman151 does your Mach have the handling package?

There is some terrible information going on in here. You don’t need a bump steer kit. If you have the HP Mach you have Ford camber plates and you’ll be able to get your car within spec. If not you might need to get camber bolts. You also do not need to cut or alter your bump stops, I believe the bump stops are internal on the Magneride struts and shocks. You are way overthinking this in my opinion.

@Bbqman151 does your Mach have the handling package?

There is some terrible information going on in here. You don’t need a bump steer kit. If you have the HP Mach you have Ford camber plates and you’ll be able to get your car within spec. If not you might need to get camber bolts. You also do not need to cut or alter your bump stops, I believe the bump stops are internal on the Magneride struts and shocks. You are way overthinking this in my opinion.

Mine does not have the handling package, but it does have MagneRide.

 

[Bbqman151]

Don’t all Mach 1’s have magneride? If so, can’t install new shocks and struts. If not, then new shocks and struts wouldn’t be a bad idea.

As far as alignment, the rear is fully adjustable, front you can only adjust toe. That being said, lowering will add a little camber, not a bad thing. Camber plates would be best, but for a car that will never see the track, you don’t really need plates. If you have a little extra money, get the camber plates just because you have to take the strut apart anyway, shouldn’t be any extra charge to install them.

I installed Ford Performance magneride springs on my 2020 GT PP2, I feel it rides better then stock, would never go back. They lowered my car about 1/2”.

Personally, I see no issue with your plan, get a set of springs, install, align, and enjoy it, as long as you have magneride.

Doug

Yes. It has MagneRide. That was originally all I wanted to do. Get some springs, put them in myself, then take it to an alignment shop.

 

[Wolfys11]

That info from before is wildly off
Lowering an inch or a little over will mess up camber out of spec. Front can get camber adjustable tophats on the shock, or a camber bolt. Rear needs adjustable control arm. That will bring your -2.5 deg to spec. Im not sure of mach1 having adjustable camber tophats stock, but if it does then your great! Lowering will IMPROVE the drive quality and handling, not worsen it, assuming you can get back to spec with camber. The toe and caster will easily get put back to oem spec no mods needed. Hell, i have my gt with 1 inch lowered and i didnt even do my alignment, mainly because i havent gotten the parts to fix my camber yet, and i can hit some wild turns no problems, im hitting roughly 1g turns or more based off the g meter in the car

 

[WItoTX]

FP Performance springs and if you really want, camber plates. You can also open up the strut hole, like Ford suggests, and get some adjustable camber, especially if not tracking the car. Then either have the dealer adjust ride height sensors, or get forscan and diy.

The FP springs are the best out of the box combo.

All in it should be around $1000.

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