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Looking for 10mm longer studs

Niz55

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I have searched and can't find anything. Need to be m14x1.5.
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Niz55

Niz55

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I think i have found one. Dorman 610-435

Application Summary: Chevrolet 2008-01, GMC 2008-01

I am going to try to install 1 stud on the front and 1 on the rear. It is 8MM longer than the OEM mustang stud and that is exactly what i need.

BTW, They are $1 each. 10.9 Grade made in USA

 
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Niz55

Niz55

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Anyone know why the OEM studs have clipped heads?
 
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Niz55

Niz55

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So I also bought 610-530 stud that is for f350 or f450 forgot. Is a bit longer I believe 75mm but I have no problem cutting it down to what I want. The knurl size is also 15.9 vs 15.88 oem mustang so that wouldn't be a problem at all. The only issue I ran it to was that the oem mustang stud OD head is bigger and the the two studs that I got have smaller heads.

Going back to store to see if I can find something bigger. This is for the front.
 

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Niz55

Niz55

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To clear the hub bearing . There is an f350 stud that has the same knurl as the stock mustang
To clear the hub bearing . There is an f350 stud that has the same knurl as the stock mustang
Nope. The knurl might be the same but the head is smaller diameter and is not clipped. The smaller head diameter would barely fit over the hub hole and that is not safe.

I went with arp studs 1/2 -20. Knurl on the arp is 15.87 and oem mustang is 15.88.
P/n: (100-7703) thanks to [MENTION=23274]JMan[/MENTION] for the info. pep boys had them for $16 for 5 studs. Came out to $70 for all 20 studs.

They have the same size head as the oem mustang but I clipped the head so it can fit behind the hub when pressed in. You have to use a clipped head on the rear and front in order for the stud to clear the center of the hub/bearing.

After clipping the head use touch up paint so it won't rust. After you can measu how much you need to cut down the length in order to work with your spacers and lugs.






 
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Niz55

Niz55

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Haha yeah. After reading lots of reviews about how strong arp studs are it was no brainer. Plus these came out to $70 for all 20.
 

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Niz55

Niz55

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Btw, the front you might get away without clipping the stud head but I did a mild clipping in the front just to make sure it will clear and the rear i clipped the head same as the oem studs. The rear is super tight tolerance so,you have to clip them.
 

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And by pulling them in by the thread you shortened the life of the stud. To properly seat the stud in the hub requires several tons of force. Using the thread is not recommended. You are placing twisting forces on the stud at the thread and on the knurl at the same time you are stretching the stud at the thread. That's why we sell them with all the parts to remove the hubs and press them in properly. For people without access to a shop press we offer both the ARP 1/2" and our mid length 14mm studs pre installed into new OEM hubs. When you smash out the old studs on the car the stud clips the ABS tone ring causing a dirty signal so it can effect ABS and Advance track performance. ARP uses decent material but the 14mm stud requires more torque than the 1/2" stud to maintain correct preload because it takes more to stretch it. What did you torque your wheels to?
 

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My first thought when I read this thread was, "10mm auto studs?" Then I realized this is a car forum and you weren't talking about guns.
 
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Niz55

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I have never taken out my hubs to press the studs in and they worked great for long time.

Haven't put on the tires yet but I am going to torque it down to 100-120.
 
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