jacking rails

[whirledpeaz]

I think it's great that we can click, buy and in a few days get quality parts from multiple vendors. I also think its great that members provide ideas and instructions for diy projects.

I'm making mine out of Unobtanium.

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[phunk]

Depending on what the under body looks like at the pinch rail. Depends on how extensive the final machining will be, which will be based on the intracacies of the underbody.

I definitely appreciate and applaud quality custom work. So I am no critic of your intentions.

However, I cant help but be a possible critic of the strategy. I believe that the quote above implies that, despite having started on a CAD design for your project, you have not yet even taken a moment to bend down and look under the car where this project will attach?

 

[4VorBust]

I don't know about you, but even if it was "just a day" of R&D, it would still be cheaper for me to buy them as opposed to make them, my time is worth more than that.

I am used to people thinking they can duplicate the R&D I do in my industry with just a few ingredients and a couple hours, to them I say good luck. I have been in my industry for over a decade, I am damn good at my job and I work my ass off. However, I still have things arise I never could have foreseen with new projects.

I am all for the DIY install but I wont be fabricating any components that are meant to keep my almost 2 ton car from crushing me while i work on it. Even if it could potentially "save" a few dollars.

 

[DivineStrike]

My only issue with the BMR jacking rails is the weight...but they only weigh so much because of their size, which also increases the price. I personally only want to buy 4 small jacking points that bolt in. I don't need a whole rail. It's just a bunch of unnecessary weight. Like seriously BMR just sell me those blocks you weld at each end of the rails for like $50-75 for all four and I'll be a happy camper.

 

[Cascadia_302]

I thought the main benefit of the "jacking rail" was to be able to jack one side of the car (both wheels up) from a single mid point on the rail and not have to deal with jacking each corner of the car? It appears the Steeda rails work in the fashion.

 

[DivineStrike]

Yea, I don't mind doing it the old fashion way. I just want a solid point for the jack stand. I know the pinch welds are strong but with my luck, they'd get damaged :/

 

[2Cool]

My only issue with the BMR jacking rails is the weight...but they only weigh so much because of their size, which also increases the price. I personally only want to buy 4 small jacking points that bolt in. I don't need a whole rail. It's just a bunch of unnecessary weight. Like seriously BMR just sell me those blocks you weld at each end of the rails for like $50-75 for all four and I'll be a happy camper.

I was thinking the same thing. Basically bolt on jacking pucks on each corner, just thick enough to be above the pinch weld. Done. The S550 frame is stiff enough that subframe connectors are really redundant.

Added: actually some made of composite such as delrin would work fine for me as well.

 

[John S.]

Looks like I might just go with a weld in. Depending on what the under body looks like at the pinch rail. Depends on how extensive the final machining will be, which will be based on the intracacies of the underbody.

This is a simple tube with the ends capped, slots cut in and vertical bracing inserted and welded in place. Holes drilled and filled for welding all 4 sides of the incerted bracing. Welding to the vehicle will be a stich weld, 1" every 4 to 6 inches, alternating at the body and pinch weld. Using this will allow me to use the KB bracing at a later time, if I go that route.

the vertical bracing is way overkill. You wont collapse tubing with the weight of the car (unless you are using super thin square tubing.)

 

[Brewddha]

FWIW I have BMR's jacking rails, as my Mustang goes on a lift and also gets jacked up for wheel changes from time to time for track days, as well as the occasional mod. These rails are terrific, matching the angle changes under the car perfectly (there are a couple of tricky spots). No doubt someone could DIY it, but for those of us who want to purchase something that is well engineered and well constructed for the purpose, and who don't want to DIY on something that bears the the weight of the car in critical situations (ie. the car is above you), they're ideal.

I've used mine quite a few times, and when thinking about it from a quality and convenience perspective rather than a price of materials and construction perspective, these are a tremendous deal. Worth the price paid from my perspective based on that math. I've used mine a half dozen times already and really do appreciate having them every time. Whether they're worth it to others is a personal decision, but no brainer for me - great product at a reasonable price. Kudos BMR.

 

[Horde5.0]

+1 for BMR rails. They have made lifting the car a whole lot faster and easier. I also like not having to worry about rolling a pinch weld over. Well worth the money to me.

 

[davekro]

How wide is the BMR rail's mounting surface at the back?
Has anyone has modded the BMR rail for their convertible (to fit on top of brace). Obviously it could not go underneath the vert brace (between the vert brace and the frame).

As a convertible owner I would have to modify the rear of the rail, if possible to fit on top of (inside verts rear brace curved flange. If I'm going to have to cut a jacking rail to fit with the vert's rear brace, I'd sure like to be able to modify (if possible) the longer BMR rail.

I'm wondering if the width at the mounting surface could be ground down enough to nest into the vert's brace. This would leave the rail ≈ 1/8" away from frame at the very back, but a few filler spacers could be glued to the rail for support. Not a first choice, but if neither Steeda nor BMR is going to make a special rail to fit the much smaller vert market, I'm looking to make do and preferably with a longer rail than the Steeda if possible. I'll have this car over 10 years, so I do not mind investing some time and effort to get the most useful outcome.

 

[BMR Tech]

Can you post a pic of the vert bracing? A close up of the area you are referring to?

I know what it looks like. And I know our "Boxes" will not fit "in" them, as you are speaking of, without major modification.

However, if you will post a pic I can brainstorm. ;)

 

[davekro]

Can you post a pic of the vert bracing? A close up of the area you are referring to?

I know what it looks like. And I know our "Boxes" will not fit "in" them, as you are speaking of, without major modification.

However, if you will post a pic I can brainstorm. ;)

Kelly,
I'd welcome ANY ideas on how I might mod your rail as well as the width dimension.

For those not familiar, this is a view of the rear two mounting holes for Jacking rails. This shows the rear under frame brace mount on the convertibles.
Thanks,
Dave

Edit: Kelly what about maybe putting bottom mounting surface in a vise to try to squeeze it enough to fit between the raise edges of the brace. Hmmn, or maybe remove the brace and sledge hammer the edges flat. How far past the second (end) bolt does your rail extend? Either way, any ideas on how to shim the gap made just at back to go on top of this brace? I was thinking of epoxying 2 - 3 shims say one foot forward of this bracket.

 

[Ultrakla$$ic]

Is it done yet??

 

[Dat Boi Kumar]

How much does BMR jacking Rails Weigh?

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