Is It Easier to Pull Motor From Bottom or Top?

[DougS550]

I was wondering. How much longer does it take to remove the 19GT engine from the top side o stead from the bottom?. Thanks

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[compprep]

I know this doesn't answer directly.

Last year when my 2019 procharged GT blew up, my indy took it out from top. He had already installed a BMR street sub-frame (K=Member). He did have to purchase a special aluminum
plate to do it. Plate bolts to top of block where the intake is. So that came off first.

Hope this helps!

 

[DougS550]

I know this doesn't answer directly.

Last year when my 2019 procharged GT blew up, my indy took it out from top. He had already installed a BMR street sub-frame (K=Member). He did have to purchase a special aluminum
plate to do it. Plate bolts to top of block where the intake is. So that came off first.

Hope this helps!

I know it takes longer but unless I install a lift, I cannot remove the engine from the bottom.

 

[WildHorse]

You can take the engine/trans out from the top IF you can get the car at least 16" off the ground. RAD has to come out ... so it's just basic unbolting which is pretty easy.

 

[80FoxCoupe]

Pull it from the top with or without the trans. You can leave headers on. If you leave trans in the car, simply leave a jack under the trans or use a strap. There are holes in the rockers to insert hooks from strap.

 

[Headless Horseman]

I was wondering. How much longer does it take to remove the 19GT engine from the top side o stead from the bottom?. Thanks

May I ask why you're pulling your motor?

 

[tdstuart]

Pull it from the top with or without the trans. You can leave headers on. If you leave trans in the car, simply leave a jack under the trans or use a strap. There are holes in the rockers to insert hooks from strap.

This. If its just the motor especially with an auto Ive found it easier to unbolt the trans and just pull the motor from the top.

It's pretty straight forward. Unbolt hood, take off the radiator fans, take off cooling system, disconnect harness from engine, unbolt from engine mounts, take off exhaust past headers, replace manifold with lift plate, unbolt trans, unbolt ac compressor, pull engine out

 

[80FoxCoupe]

This. If its just the motor especially with an auto Ive found it easier to unbolt the trans and just pull the motor from the top.

It's pretty straight forward. Unbolt hood, take off the radiator fans, take off cooling system, disconnect harness from engine, unbolt from engine mounts, take off exhaust past headers, replace manifold with lift plate, unbolt trans, unbolt ac compressor, pull engine out

Leave the hood on even.

 

[tdstuart]

Leave the hood on even.

I didn’t see how it would have enough clearance but maybe it’s possible. Have you done it?

 

[80FoxCoupe]

I didn’t see how it would have enough clearance but maybe it’s possible. Have you done it?

Yes, a few times. Just unclip the hood struts.

 

[tdstuart]

Yes, a few times. Just unclip the hood struts.

Good to know I’ll have to try it next time, thanks!

 

[80FoxCoupe]

Good to know I’ll have to try it next time, thanks!

Save a bit of time and potential damage to hood by removing and storing somewhere. Unclip hood strut if equipped, have someone push up on hood while getting engine into bay. The hood can almost go straight up and down, well beyond the angle of struts.

 

[Cobra Jet]

For any Mustang engine R&R, in simple terms, I’ve always removed the trans first, then pulled the engine from the topside with no issues…

Hood removal isn’t always necessary, but helps so you have wiggle room and depending on crane boom being used to have enough up/down working room.

Always drape old blankets or something thick over the front fenders and front nose cone…. Last thing you need is a “whoopsy” while trying to R&R an engine.

Some TIPS for the DIYer:
- Always mark all of your harnesses (just use the cheap painters tape or masking tape, wrap it on end of harness and write on it) this way you know where things go when reassembling (this helps A LOT for first time DIYers… us old school folks just bitch and complain when we “know it all”, but then forget weeks or months later on reassembly…. LMAO).

- DO NOT YANK or “man pull” harness plugs or connectors from sensors or other harnesses with force! You can damage/break the plug, pull the wiring pins from the plug, or worse case scenario, break wires within the conduit. Then you’ll be on here asking “where does this go” or “I’m getting 25 DTC’s and don’t know what’s wrong”….

- Take BEFORE pics too which will also help with reassembly (I mean, everyone reading this has a mobile device that can take a pic in less than 5 secs).

- Plan your R&R; have all the tools, fluids, etc. needed for the job. Prepare for the unexpected, such as having to possibly cut coolant hoses, bolts that may break or strip (due to age if on older vehicles), damaged/worn out clamps, etc.

- For those working in a driveway or personal garage, go to Home Depot or Lowe’s, ACE Hardware, etc., grab a washing machine “pan”. These are black, white or gray pans that can be placed under washing machines in the event the canine were to leak water. They’re like 3’x3’ or 4’x4’ and about 2” deep and range from about $25-$35 depending on where you get it. Throw this under the front of the car to capture any fluid spillage. A hell of a lot easier than dealing with spilled fluids, oil/fluid “kitty litter”, possible stains, and then the PIA cleanup….

 

[DougS550]

May I ask why you're pulling your motor?

If I decide to push over 900whp, I will remove my engine and replace the crank, pistons, rods, O-Ring the block etc, remove and send the transmission off to get upgraded to give them the reliability nessasary for playing at those hp levels and beyond. I would rather upgrade the weaker parts now, then replace the entire engine if it goes. I'm just gathering info, just in case I decide to push for more.

 

[Bob Lob Law]

Don't think the crank needs replaced at that level. Brett Lasala in snot rocket 2 was pushing close to 3000 hp on a stock crank.

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