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Inconsistent Brake Feel

Skillzmcgee

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Hi Guys,
Last summer i noticed my PP brakes had started to get a little inconsistent. Basically, when i pressed the brake pedal after not pressing it for some time it would feel mushy and not grab as high up as i remember. However, if they were pressed recently they feel solid and grab early.

Since then i've replaced the fluid thinking this would solve my problem with ATE TYP 200 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VXRPL0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

However, bleeding the new fluid through has not helped. I'm hoping you have some suggestions for me to try.

It should be noted that i attended 4 track sessions last year and definitely got the brakes pretty toasty.

Thanks!
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Gatorac

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You will get a bit of knock back on long straights. The pads have basically moved away from the rotor. When you go back to the pedal, you have to take up that space. Hence the longer pedal.

The stock PP pads work well but their performance starts to deteriorate once they get down to 25% thickness.
 
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Skillzmcgee

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How much pad life is left?

what process did you follow when you bled the brakes?

Although unlikely you could have a bad master cylinder seal.
The pads look pretty healthy. id say 60-70% thickness left.

I did the two person method. One person pumps the brakes while the other open/closes the bleeder.

Just to double check.There is no special procedure for bleeding the brakes on these cars other than the two bleeders on each front caliper,m correct?
 
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wildcatgoal

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I used a Motive power bleeder and it's vastly better than the pedal push and turn the bleeder two person method. I don't know why.
 

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TNcoupe

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I used a Motive power bleeder and it's vastly better than the pedal push and turn the bleeder two person method. I don't know why.
The power bleeder is the only way I will ever bleed brakes for the rest of my life.
 

me109a

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The power bleeder is the only way I will ever bleed brakes for the rest of my life.
Same here. I used stock pads at Gingerman (Mich) which is well known to be hard on brakes and had no problems on an 80 degree sunny day.

The issue sounds like pad knock-back to me, if the fluid boiled the bakes would get soft every session within a lap until bleed again.
 

tom_sprecher

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Does anyone know what he pad lining thickness is when new?
 
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Skillzmcgee

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I used a Motive power bleeder and it's vastly better than the pedal push and turn the bleeder two person method. I don't know why.
Ok thanks bought the Motive power 100. Hopefully this helps.
 

Grafanton

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I had a similar problem after swapping pads and fluid last year.

It never really cleared up until I got on track and got into the ABS. After that, the brakes felt perfect. Didn't back into the ABS again either.

I checked the web and many forums and nobody said anything about having to do anything special with the ABS system regarding brake bleeding.

I swapped pads and fluids again this year but, it didn't happen this year.
 

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jdub.csu

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I had a similar problem after swapping pads and fluid last year.

It never really cleared up until I got on track and got into the ABS. After that, the brakes felt perfect. Didn't back into the ABS again either.

I checked the web and many forums and nobody said anything about having to do anything special with the ABS system regarding brake bleeding.

I swapped pads and fluids again this year but, it didn't happen this year.

You are supposed to activate the ABS for doing the brake fluid flush.
 

higdominator

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You are supposed to activate the ABS for doing the brake fluid flush.
True, BUT that shouldn't readily affect the brake feel unless air was trapped in there and he got into an ABS stop or cycled the ABS module and that was introduced to the rest of the system.

How is that done?
Scan Tool or some creativity (take it for a spin and do an ABS stop)
 

MaverickGT

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Does anyone know what he pad lining thickness is when new?
From memory, measuring the pad and backing together with a caliper it's 11mm.
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