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Nctong01

Nctong01

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What cage did you end up choosing? And any ideas for who will be installing?
I actually went a little against the grain I feel like. I came across a super well priced kit from a company called S&W Race Cars (here's the kit: https://swracecars.com/product/2015-newer-ford-mustang-10-point-roll-cage-cm/) . After doing some research and not finding one negative review, I reached out to them. They actually offer a 25.4 SFI Cert cockpit upgrade too, which I may do as well--they sent me over all the schematics and it looks solid. Cost for the 10 point was $790 and the 25.4 is I believe $550 (mild steel).

Not only does it seem that the kit is barely above cost, but most tubes are notched and same dimension chromoly as per the fathouse and watson kits.

We'll be doing the install here. I have a nice TIG setup that I bought right before I jumped into this project to start learning, but now my tuner/fab guy gets to break it in.
 
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Nctong01

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25.4 is pretty aggressive lol. Funny how I really don't see many 7 second s550's running this degree of setup.
 

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wazslow

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25.4 is pretty aggressive lol. Funny how I really don't see many 7 second s550's running this degree of setup.
I thought 25.4 was for a tube chassis build? As far as I know you would go 25.5 for a car like yours (thats what I had in my foxbody). 25.5 can be all chromoly or mild steel. They cert to 7.50. Next step would be a 25.3 or 25.2 or you can do a dual cert with both and that will cert to 6.50. They must be chromoly.

Here was my foxbody with chromoly 25.5.

ATT2198898.jpg


interior2.jpg


Cecil-1.jpg
 
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NO1CARES

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I actually went a little against the grain I feel like. I came across a super well priced kit from a company called S&W Race Cars (here's the kit: https://swracecars.com/product/2015-newer-ford-mustang-10-point-roll-cage-cm/) . After doing some research and not finding one negative review, I reached out to them. They actually offer a 25.4 SFI Cert cockpit upgrade too, which I may do as well--they sent me over all the schematics and it looks solid. Cost for the 10 point was $790 and the 25.4 is I believe $550 (mild steel).

Not only does it seem that the kit is barely above cost, but most tubes are notched and same dimension chromoly as per the fathouse and watson kits.

We'll be doing the install here. I have a nice TIG setup that I bought right before I jumped into this project to start learning, but now my tuner/fab guy gets to break it in.
wow I’ve never read into this kit but that’s cheap for what you get. I know a lot of kits are getting away from the roof halo and building the a pillar bars to be part of the roof. Looking forward to seeing your progress! Maybe I’ll jump into that also
 


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Nctong01

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I thought 25.4 was for a tube chassis build? As far as I know you would go 25.5 for a car like yours (thats what I had in my foxbody). 25.5 can be all chromoly or mild steel. They cert to 7.50. Next step would be a 25.3 or 25.2 or you can do a dual cert with both and that will cert to 6.50. They must be chromoly.

Here was my foxbody with chromoly 25.5.

ATT2198898.jpg


interior2.jpg


Cecil-1.jpg
Yep, as far as I know 25.4 would be tube chassis. 25.5 is oem floorpan/firewall. 25.4 would be taking it a step further. I honestly need to get the SFI cert book (hint hint if anyone has it lol) because the reason I said I may go that route is because I'm pretty sure we can get the additional stuff to modify the 8.5 cage to a 25.5 a lot easier....and I'd rather go 4130 than mild steel.

Beautiful car as well man, super clean!
 
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wow I’ve never read into this kit but that’s cheap for what you get. I know a lot of kits are getting away from the roof halo and building the a pillar bars to be part of the roof. Looking forward to seeing your progress! Maybe I’ll jump into that also
There's another company I was looking at that makes an 8.5 and tubular front end combo for $13xx. Reason I didn't go that route is I just don't think I'll need that setup yet, apparently it doesn't reduce much weight on the s550, and if I do no prep, I don't want people crying :cwl:

And I appreciate it man. I figured this would be easier to give my guy a bit of a break on the work, and we can add as needed.
 
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Went ahead and pulled the subframe. Went to remove the front bags, and maybe I'm just totally blanking out but the lower mount bolts won't budge. As far as I know with the nut off as it is, they should come out with a little coaxing...I've done more than a bit of coaxing but before I mushroom the end of the bolt banging away or take a torch to them, I wanted to see if maybe I'm just blanking out on something?

52BB9AA2-CD26-4B8B-9729-2C8C17437825.jpeg


E5E80CAD-B06D-4FCF-A115-BF8F187C734D.jpeg
 

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I've done more than a bit of coaxing but before I mushroom the end of the bolt banging away or take a torch to them, I wanted to see if maybe I'm just blanking out on something?
I thought the recommendation was normally to leave the nut on almost flush with the end of the bolt and hammer it? That way you don't mushroom it. That's about the only "help" my non-mechanical self is worth tho lol
 
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I thought the recommendation was normally to leave the nut on almost flush with the end of the bolt and hammer it? That way you don't mushroom it. That's about the only "help" my non-mechanical self is worth tho lol
I am gonna try to get a bit more aggressive later; youre right there if you have to use some force. Generally these shouldn't take a bunch of force though. I'm wondering if there's honestly just some rust for some reason...I don't see any reason they should be bound up.
 

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I am gonna try to get a bit more aggressive later; youre right there if you have to use some force. Generally these shouldn't take a bunch of force though. I'm wondering if there's honestly just some rust for some reason...I don't see any reason they should be bound up.
nope, I’ve yet to meet one that didn’t take a bunch of force. Put the nut on the end and use a 4 pound hammer. Turn the wheel to get the best swing and use some heat on the spindle.

put your purse down and swing away.
 
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nope, I’ve yet to meet one that didn’t take a bunch of force. Put the nut on the end and use a 4 pound hammer. Turn the wheel to get the best swing and use some heat on the spindle.

put your purse down and swing away.

:cwl: Hey now, I thought I was safe wearing my purse in my own home without prying eyes.

Stock ones for the install of the air ride came out pretty easy...guessing maybe just the mileage. I'll beat it up.
 
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BMR Lower control arm bearings, BMR rear handling springs, Adjustable delrin camber links, rear lockout kit, UPR spring spacers, poly spring isolators, Subframe bushing lockout kit, alignment kit, and steeda bumpstops ordered (threw my stock isolators and bumpstops out going air ride...of course).

Going to have PNR do a half moon style fuel cell for me for the forward part of the spare tire area.

I just updated my ordered parts list, and have realized that I genuinely have an addiction:

Block
Billet rear main cover with seal
Oil squirter block offs
Oil pump with billet gears
Manley I beam Rods (will be selling these when I get them)
Boostline Rods
Manley forged pistons with top coating
Total seal steel rings
Clevite bearings
BOSS Crankshaft (will have this for sale when it's in if anyone needs one)
Callies 3.65 4340 Crank
Dry Sleeves
ATI Super Damper
Light weight water pump pulley (yes...I know. Cheap if it adds any kind of initial throttle response)
All ARP engine hardware (main studs, head studs, cam tower bolts, cam phase bolts, crank pulley bolt, water pump pulley bolts)
Oil tube spacer for ARP Main studs
Kinetic Crank Saver Stud Kit

Aftermarket oil pan, baffled and +1.5 quart capacity


Head
MMR Valve springs+retainers
Ferrera Valves
Set of OEM timing chains
Head cooling mod (not sure about this...a lot of failures I see are cylinder 8 though so I didn't think it'd hurt anything)
Cometic 5.2L MLX head gaskets
Billet secondary tensioner bracket-XHD secondary chains and gears
Billet Primary chain tensioners
Fel-pro timing cover gasket kit
Intake manifold gaskets
Exhaust manifold gaskets

MHS 5.0L Coyote Xtreme Race Turbo Cams
VCT Phaser Delete
VCT Valve cover block offs
Billet chain guides/arms
87mm Throttle body
Viton Valve seals

GT500 valve covers
AN valve cover inserts for catch can



Turbo Setup
Garrett G57 2000 88mm w/ 1.4 A/R
Precision Racegate BOV
Frankenstein Air to Water bulldog manifold
PNR 5 gallon air to water tank
BPS Billet 16 AN Pass through

Trans+Rear End
SFI case TH400 rated to 2200-2300 wheel
Coan 10 inch Converter
All necessary accessories for TH400
DSS CF driveshaft with billet yoke
G Force 9 inch rear end w/3.7 gear (strange aluminum HD center)

Body/Chassis
Steeda Front Bumper Bar
BMR K member
BMR Billet Aluminum Vertical Links




Suspension/Brakes/Wheels
JPC line lock
AED Billet knuckles
Baer rear drag brakes for AED knuckles
Baer front drag brakes

Bogart 11.5" beadlocks
Hoosier 30x10.5-15 Radials
Hooser front skinny bias ply

Kelltrac front coilover
Kelltrac rear shocks
Kelltrac camber plates
BMR Rear handling Springs
BMR Adjustable Toe Links
BMR Adjustable Delrin Camber Arms
BMR Camber Lockout
BMR Upper shock mounts
BMR Standard Lower Control Arm Bearing Kit
Energy Suspension Poly rear spring isolators
UPR 3/8 Billet spring space
UPR IRS Subframe bushing lockout kit
UPR Billet Subframe connector
UPR IRS Subframe alignment kit


Cooling/Accessories
BL fab radiator overflow/catch can
SVE radiator
(returned, going with a different setup)
Motion Raceworks steering column kit
Motion Raceworks parachute setup
Nitrous system (will probably run just a 50 jet)
Nitrous Outlet purge kit
Nitrous outlet sunglass cubby controller
Fuel pumps

ID 2600x injectors
DivisionX Mustang Triple Pump Fuel Hat Manifold (thanks @illtal )
Lethal Boost a pump
Thermostat housing delete



Exterior
Window, headlight, tailight tint
Anderson Composites CF Doors
MMR Drag Wing
MMR Carbon fiber trunk
Trackspec hood vents
Wrap material
BPS Mirror Block off plates

Interior
Watson center panel delete
Sparco Steering wheel
(returned, bought an innovative racecraft wheel)
10 Point 8.5 Cert cage kit
 
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NO1CARES

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Interesting that you went with the handling springs. Kelly told me to use the rear BMR drag springs.
 
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Nctong01

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I actually asked him in my order and he affirmed to go with the handling springs. I'm sure just a matter of setup; he actually said he was developing an adjustable 1000lb spring and would go with that if it was out.

If you follow David Van Voris on YT...setup will be somewhat similar and he was getting a lot of squat with the drag springs. That and given the fact that I'll have a 30 inch tire, I was worried not only with too much squat but also hitting the fender well.
 

 
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