NO1CARES
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2017
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- 7
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- 349
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- Location
- FALLING WATERS WV
- Vehicle(s)
- 17 GTPP 5.2 TH400
What cage did you end up choosing? And any ideas for who will be installing?
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I actually went a little against the grain I feel like. I came across a super well priced kit from a company called S&W Race Cars (here's the kit: https://swracecars.com/product/2015-newer-ford-mustang-10-point-roll-cage-cm/) . After doing some research and not finding one negative review, I reached out to them. They actually offer a 25.4 SFI Cert cockpit upgrade too, which I may do as well--they sent me over all the schematics and it looks solid. Cost for the 10 point was $790 and the 25.4 is I believe $550 (mild steel).What cage did you end up choosing? And any ideas for who will be installing?
I thought 25.4 was for a tube chassis build? As far as I know you would go 25.5 for a car like yours (thats what I had in my foxbody). 25.5 can be all chromoly or mild steel. They cert to 7.50. Next step would be a 25.3 or 25.2 or you can do a dual cert with both and that will cert to 6.50. They must be chromoly.25.4 is pretty aggressive lol. Funny how I really don't see many 7 second s550's running this degree of setup.
wow I’ve never read into this kit but that’s cheap for what you get. I know a lot of kits are getting away from the roof halo and building the a pillar bars to be part of the roof. Looking forward to seeing your progress! Maybe I’ll jump into that alsoI actually went a little against the grain I feel like. I came across a super well priced kit from a company called S&W Race Cars (here's the kit: https://swracecars.com/product/2015-newer-ford-mustang-10-point-roll-cage-cm/) . After doing some research and not finding one negative review, I reached out to them. They actually offer a 25.4 SFI Cert cockpit upgrade too, which I may do as well--they sent me over all the schematics and it looks solid. Cost for the 10 point was $790 and the 25.4 is I believe $550 (mild steel).
Not only does it seem that the kit is barely above cost, but most tubes are notched and same dimension chromoly as per the fathouse and watson kits.
We'll be doing the install here. I have a nice TIG setup that I bought right before I jumped into this project to start learning, but now my tuner/fab guy gets to break it in.
Yep, as far as I know 25.4 would be tube chassis. 25.5 is oem floorpan/firewall. 25.4 would be taking it a step further. I honestly need to get the SFI cert book (hint hint if anyone has it lol) because the reason I said I may go that route is because I'm pretty sure we can get the additional stuff to modify the 8.5 cage to a 25.5 a lot easier....and I'd rather go 4130 than mild steel.I thought 25.4 was for a tube chassis build? As far as I know you would go 25.5 for a car like yours (thats what I had in my foxbody). 25.5 can be all chromoly or mild steel. They cert to 7.50. Next step would be a 25.3 or 25.2 or you can do a dual cert with both and that will cert to 6.50. They must be chromoly.
Here was my foxbody with chromoly 25.5.
There's another company I was looking at that makes an 8.5 and tubular front end combo for $13xx. Reason I didn't go that route is I just don't think I'll need that setup yet, apparently it doesn't reduce much weight on the s550, and if I do no prep, I don't want people cryingwow I’ve never read into this kit but that’s cheap for what you get. I know a lot of kits are getting away from the roof halo and building the a pillar bars to be part of the roof. Looking forward to seeing your progress! Maybe I’ll jump into that also
I thought the recommendation was normally to leave the nut on almost flush with the end of the bolt and hammer it? That way you don't mushroom it. That's about the only "help" my non-mechanical self is worth tho lolI've done more than a bit of coaxing but before I mushroom the end of the bolt banging away or take a torch to them, I wanted to see if maybe I'm just blanking out on something?
I am gonna try to get a bit more aggressive later; youre right there if you have to use some force. Generally these shouldn't take a bunch of force though. I'm wondering if there's honestly just some rust for some reason...I don't see any reason they should be bound up.I thought the recommendation was normally to leave the nut on almost flush with the end of the bolt and hammer it? That way you don't mushroom it. That's about the only "help" my non-mechanical self is worth tho lol
nope, I’ve yet to meet one that didn’t take a bunch of force. Put the nut on the end and use a 4 pound hammer. Turn the wheel to get the best swing and use some heat on the spindle.I am gonna try to get a bit more aggressive later; youre right there if you have to use some force. Generally these shouldn't take a bunch of force though. I'm wondering if there's honestly just some rust for some reason...I don't see any reason they should be bound up.
nope, I’ve yet to meet one that didn’t take a bunch of force. Put the nut on the end and use a 4 pound hammer. Turn the wheel to get the best swing and use some heat on the spindle.
put your purse down and swing away.
BMR Lower control arm bearings, BMR rear handling springs, Adjustable delrin camber links, rear lockout kit, UPR spring spacers, poly spring isolators, Subframe bushing lockout kit, alignment kit, and steeda bumpstops ordered (threw my stock isolators and bumpstops out going air ride...of course).
Interesting that you went with the handling springs. Kelly told me to use the rear BMR drag springs.