Idle and drive issues?

[Kevin17re5]

Hello, I have a 2015 automatic mustang GT that has a cobra jet manifold, vmp 67 mm twin throttle body, pmas cold air intake and recently got a tune from Palm Beach Dyno. Before I got tuned (I do not know who the previous owner had the car tuned by) the car would die on idle after trying to start it again after driving. After the palm beach dyno tune the car does not die however the idle fluctuates between 500-1000 rpm in park or neutral. When I am driving and if I floor it, it basically stops accelerating for almost 2 seconds or sometimes it will even stutter pretty violently.. I am trying to figure it out with my tuner but could it be a tune problem or something with the car?

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[thehunterooo]

Everything is clean with no leaks? Can’t wait to get that set up myself

 

[ugstang17]

Have you datalogged the car and sent those files back to PBD for revision? Have you called and spoken to Mike or Rob about the issue? PBD does not produce a canned tune. They send you a base tune and a ref file. They also provide you teh cfg datalog file for the appropriate programmer to use to collect the data. They provide you directions on how to datalog. You then send them back and they make revisions.

Make sure the TB is clean and the MAF is clean. Look at the gauge at idle and see what your vacuum is reading (though that reading is not accurate it can still provide a reference on whether there is a vacuum leak or not. Warmed up the car should exhibit 13-17 inches of Hg at idle. If so you have no issue.

 

[Zinc03svt]

The OP says after a PBD dyno tune. Take it back their...

I had the cobra jet manifold with mono blade throttle body on a 14 GT. Took Lund a few tries to get it right etune. Car idled fine until we tried to make the cam tune work on an auto. That died occasionally. Personally will NOT go that route on my 18. The dual fuel coyote with just an e85 tune is considerably faster than my 14 with over 2500 in mods. ;).

 

[ugstang17]

The OP says after a PBD dyno tune. Take it back there....

Palm Beach Dyno does remote tuning as well as tuning at their facility in Florida. The OP is in Illinois. It would be reasonable to assume he most likely made a remote tune purchase. He may not be aware that the tune is not a "canned tune" one tune fits all situation. Therefore as I suggested he needs to datalog and return those logs for a revision if he has not....OR contact Mike/Rob/ken at PBD and find out WHAT he needs to datalog to provide them the needed 411 to make corrections to the idle.

However if these things have been done, and he has received revisions or the okay that the tune is good, before he jumps to conclusions and begins blaming the tuner, he needs to do his own verification basics if he has not first done so.

The basics include verifying the MAF/TB are clean, vacuum is appropriate at idle, plugs are in good condition and meet tuner requirements, no CELs indicating a failed or weak O2 sensor, all mods were properly disclosed to the tuner prior to receiving the base line tune, the electrical system is functioning properly, enough time has elapsed driving the car that adaptive learning has been satisfied. These are Things that 99.9% of custom tuners in the business would appreciate being verified by the car owner even before beginning a tune....remote or on sight. Saves hassle for everyone.

 

[Andy13186]

could be clogged injectors? do you run e85? could try some lucas ethanol fuel treatment

 

[Cobra Jet]

Since you have a 2015, this Ford TSB 15-0128 may apply:

 

[Kevin17re5]

Have you datalogged the car and sent those files back to PBD for revision? Have you called and spoken to Mike or Rob about the issue? PBD does not produce a canned tune. They send you a base tune and a ref file. They also provide you teh cfg datalog file for the appropriate programmer to use to collect the data. They provide you directions on how to datalog. You then send them back and they make revisions.

Make sure the TB is clean and the MAF is clean. Look at the gauge at idle and see what your vacuum is reading (though that reading is not accurate it can still provide a reference on whether there is a vacuum leak or not. Warmed up the car should exhibit 13-17 inches of Hg at idle. If so you have no issue.

The vacuum is at about 20 in Hg. Then when parked or in neutral it goes all the way up to 26 in Hg. Could it be a vacuum leak? Would that cause acceleration problems too?

 

[kluke15]

i would check the maf to see if its oem or pmas. they would need to tune for the difference of the inlet tube if its still oem. i would think pbd would be able to tell by the logs if that was the case. i would go over and check all the clamps on the pmas, they can be a little tricky to seal all the way from my experience

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