I need a little guidance on a few more suspension upgrades

[Justpassingas]

Tax returns are coming so I’m shopping…I’m in need of some guidance on a few more suspension upgrades I’m planning on doing to my 21 GT non PP. It’s my DD that will never see a track. I’m running 285/35/19 square but might go staggered in the future. Last year I installed Steeda minimum drop springs,Steeda Pro-Active shocks /struts along with camber plates. Now I’m looking at adding the FP Strut Tower with the rear cowel brace, Steeda Extreme K member brace and Steeda IRS Subframe Braces. I’m on the fence thinking about Steeda Vertical links, Steeda subframe alignment & subframe bushings kit but are they really necessary for a DD? Any advice is appreciated. Thanx

Sponsored

 

[GrayMater22]

Tax returns are coming so I’m shopping…I’m in need of some guidance on a few more suspension upgrades I’m planning on doing to my 21 GT non PP. It’s my DD that will never see a track. I’m running 285/35/19 square but might go staggered in the future. Last year I installed Steeda minimum drop springs,Steeda Pro-Active shocks /struts along with camber plates. Now I’m looking at adding the FP Strut Tower with the rear cowel brace, Steeda Extreme K member brace and Steeda IRS Subframe Braces. I’m on the fence thinking about Steeda Vertical links, Steeda subframe alignment & subframe bushings kit but are they really necessary for a DD? Any advice is appreciated. Thanx

You are on the right track, I have the same spring, strut, camber plates and shocks, but the Steeda irs alignment and braces really tightened up the rear end. I have the strut tower brace (least improvement). Currently running 275/35r20’s ECS2’s, definitely looking at more rear traction with 295’s,

 

[Bluemustang]

I would do the subframe modifications. Skip the K Brace and the vertical links.

Your springs are only a small rate increase over stock, so you're not getting much benefit there other than a firmer "feel" from the car. Most of your gain is coming from the camber and the shocks. If you main thing is cornering, I'd run -2 front camber, and maybe -1.5 to -1.8 in the rear. *-2.5/-2 Front and Rear if you really want to get aggressive but I see no point in doing that for your purpose.

The other thing you could add which will help is a bigger front sway bar. The front needs all the help you can give it and since It's not coming from the spring rate you can add it with the bar. But, keep the rear sway bar stock. It's giving you not benefit, just costing you precious traction.

Locking down the subframe will give you some increased confidence and the alignment dowels is a good thing to do so your subframe is centered. You have the basis for a decent street setup. You can add a few pieces like I mentioned and be on your way. The vertical links is small fish and the Kbrace isn't going to do anything really. You don't need it.

There's tons more stuff you can do, but you will get further and further from street car.

 

[tj@steeda]

Tax returns are coming so I’m shopping…I’m in need of some guidance on a few more suspension upgrades I’m planning on doing to my 21 GT non PP. It’s my DD that will never see a track. I’m running 285/35/19 square but might go staggered in the future. Last year I installed Steeda minimum drop springs,Steeda Pro-Active shocks /struts along with camber plates. Now I’m looking at adding the FP Strut Tower with the rear cowel brace, Steeda Extreme K member brace and Steeda IRS Subframe Braces. I’m on the fence thinking about Steeda Vertical links, Steeda subframe alignment & subframe bushings kit but are they really necessary for a DD? Any advice is appreciated. Thanx

Hi Mike,

If you are interested - I can put you in contact with Rodney, John or Mike D - they are some great build experts & can discuss your plans, future goals & put together a competitive package to extend that tax refund money

You can send me an email to [email protected]

Best Regards,

TJ

 

[Bluemustang]

The other advice I can give that I forgot to include in my previous post: a lot of these parts will make a difference. The vertical links for example, yeah you'll feel it. As you add more and more, the gain becomes additive. But, with each part you upgrade, the next weakest link becomes more and more apparent IMO. As you make the suspension and chassis stiffer more rigid and add more solid parts (like bearings or stiffer durometer bushings), it can put more stress on other bits with soft rubber.

What I mean to say is the further you go into it, the further it may lead you down the rabbit hole. So, I would focus on the parts that are most necessary and will accomplish what you are trying to achieve. If you have an understanding of what's missing or what negative characteristic you're trying to tune out that may help. Good luck with your journey.

 

[NightmareMoon]

My hot take.. for a street car, skip all that stuff and save your money.

Braces to stiffen things are very far down the diminishing returns money pit. If you can personally identify a problem, then its fair to look for a specific solution. If you cant ID a problem while actually driving the car, then you’re just throwing money in random directions and hoping some of it will be worthwhile.

Example - subframe alignment dowels are only helpful IF your subframe is so far misaligned that its causing some sort of actual issue (which might only be cosmetic anyway). You should know what you’ll be getting for your money.

If you had enough $$$ to just throw it away or burn it for no reason, you probably should have bought a Maserati, I hear those deprecitate real fast.

 

[shogun32]

Diff lockout bushings (Steeda or Whiteline) or at the very minimum @GTP diameter reducing collars. You can also get the collars from the BMR "differential upgraded bolt kit".

The hinge in the chassis is quite apparent even on a street car so some kind of IRS fixture/lockout is good. Again Whiteline if you can find it, otherwise BMR CB005 is plenty.

Then play with alignment and drive your car as much as possible.

 

[Paul McWhiskey]

What I have added to my car ( see signature ) has accomplished what I set out to do. Of all these changes I think that the vertical links were the least worthwhile, and I am glad that I bought BMR’s lowest priced offering. Wheel hop was annoying when stock and was what got me started. Making the call to BMR and discussing what I thought were my problems and where I intended to go with power mods, along with what I intended to use the car for was well worth the time. I believe that I was given good solid advice.

I also strongly advise to change wheels and tires. This will make a big difference in how the car handles and rides. I plan on purchasing another set of lighter wheels in the future and replacing the Performance Pack suspension with the Track Pack kit and that, I believe, will keep me satisfied for a good while.

 

[WItoTX]

My hot take.. for a street car, skip all that stuff and save your money.

Braces to stiffen things are very far down the diminishing returns money pit. If you can personally identify a problem, then its fair to look for a specific solution. If you cant ID a problem while actually driving the car, then you’re just throwing money in random directions and hoping some of it will be worthwhile.

Example - subframe alignment dowels are only helpful IF your subframe is so far misaligned that its causing some sort of actual issue (which might only be cosmetic anyway). You should know what you’ll be getting for your money.

If you had enough $$$ to just throw it away or burn it for no reason, you probably should have bought a Maserati, I hear those deprecitate real fast.

2nd all this.

Also OP, stop giving the government money interest free.

 

[Justpassingas]

My hot take.. for a street car, skip all that stuff and save your money.

If you had enough $$$ to just throw it away or burn it for no reason, you probably should have bought a Maserati, I hear those deprecitate real fast.

Certainly something to consider, maybe put the $$$ on a few car payments instead. I’m not disagreeing with you but lot of my research on several threads here suggest adding the braces and strut tower. I don't really have a specific problem that I'm trying address just trying to improve the handling.

 

[Justpassingas]

I also strongly advise to change wheels and tires.

That was one of my first mods. As I stated I run 285/35/19 square during the warmer months.

 

[Justpassingas]

2nd all this.

Also OP, stop giving the government money interest free.

I don't have a choice. I'm not willfully giving the government anything, they take my $$$ automatically from SS and pensions.

 

[Bluemustang]

The hinge in the chassis is quite apparent even on a street car so some kind of IRS fixture/lockout is good. Again Whiteline if you can find it, otherwise BMR CB005 is plenty.

The stock IRS bushings are unacceptable to me, street car or not. Some people are OK with it and that's fine though.

 

[WItoTX]

I don't have a choice. I'm not willfully giving the government anything, they take my $$$ automatically from SS and pensions.

I am only kidding around by the way...although it's annoying you get taxed, on money that was taxed before it was put in, only to pay sales tax, property tax, etc...

 

[shogun32]

they take my $$$ automatically from SS and pensions

It's like they think it's their money, and doing you a favor to ask them to give it back.

Sponsored