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I need a little guidance on a few more suspension upgrades

NightmareMoon

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Certainly something to consider, maybe put the $$$ on a few car payments instead. I’m not disagreeing with you but lot of my research on several threads here suggest adding the braces and strut tower. I don't really have a specific problem that I'm trying address just trying to improve the handling.
Handling is a big word. What part of the handling needs improving? At this point it might be the actual hands (and feet) part of the handling that might benefit most from having some money spent on improvement :)
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Bluemustang

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Certainly something to consider, maybe put the $$$ on a few car payments instead. I’m not disagreeing with you but lot of my research on several threads here suggest adding the braces and strut tower. I don't really have a specific problem that I'm trying address just trying to improve the handling.
Then, I'd probably hold off on doing more upgrades until you know what you're trying to improve. Try a track day or autocross! It's really fun and you will actually be able to see what yourself and the car are capable of.
 

Cordero1

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I thought the pp packages stopped at MY20.
 

chuckhammer

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I believe PP1 & PP2 were replaced with the single PP in 2021 when the Mach 1 debuted.
 

Cordero1

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I believe PP1 & PP2 were replaced with the single PP in 2021 when the Mach 1 debuted.
So past the Premium GT there was a performance package?
 

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chuckhammer

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So past the Premium GT there was a performance package?
Correct.

2018-23 Mustang GT trims included:
300A
301A
400A
401A

For 2021-23, any of the above could be optioned with the Performance Pack. To get Magneride you had to option the PP with it.

I'm not as familiar with how the options worked on the 2015-17 or 2018-20 cars. Believe the trims are the same going back to 2015 but that may not be correct.
 

shogun32

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Though if you were more focused on cosmetics and chose the California Special, it took till 22 for Ford marketing to stop punishing your wrong-headed priorities and to "let" you add the PP1 to your cali so there was performance to go with your stickers and other glued on doodads.
 

shogun32

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I'd probably hold off on doing more upgrades until you know what you're trying to improve.
Hey now, that kind of talk will not be tolerated 'round heeya. It is an unassailable truthism that spending money is always good for the (vendors) buyer's psyche of self-worth irrespective of any actual benefit. The whole premise of bench racing is predicated on (ineffectual) spend. The more money the faster the car!. 😉
 
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MAGS1

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Steeda IRS braces are a good add, even for street driving. I noticed a more planted feeling after I added them. I have the FP strut tower brace and the Steeda 2 point G Trac brace. Minimal difference made in normal street driving. If you’re twisty road/canyon carving, probably helps a little more.

I’ve been going back and forth on the vertical links. Easy enough to install and not super expensive but for maybe an HPDE or two a year, I’m not sure I need to do it. Can put it towards something else instead. Going to 285’s in summer from the 235’s in winter is a nice improvement also.

Springs and dampers are another good one, which you’ve already done.
 

Bluemustang

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Hey now, that kind of talk will not be tolerated 'round heya. It is an unassailable truthism that spending money is always good (for the vendors) irrespective of any actual benefit. The whole premise of bench racing is predicated on (ineffectual) spend. The more money the faster the car!. 😉
I appreciate the inferred accent in that response.
 

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RTR077

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Don't forget the "I just like doing shit to my car" reasoning. Works for me every time.
 
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Justpassingas

Justpassingas

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Don't forget the "I just like doing shit to my car" reasoning. Works for me every time.
One of my favorites is “because I can” but that gets expensive sometimes.
 

Bluemustang

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One of my favorites is “because I can” but that gets expensive sometimes.
Man, I did it all. And I found out what worked and what didn't - later. Lol If you wanna do it, go for it. Maybe start with the BMR CB005 or Steeda subframe bushing lockout.
 

bnightstar

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Example - subframe alignment dowels are only helpful IF your subframe is so far misaligned that its causing some sort of actual issue (which might only be cosmetic anyway). You should know what you’ll be getting for your money.

If you had enough $$$ to just throw it away or burn it for no reason, you probably should have bought a Maserati, I hear those deprecitate real fast.
Highly disagree the subframe moves a lot during transitions in corners without some form of IRS lockout. The IRS Base kit solves that. It move so much that you can feel the weight shifting to the outside this is not good for any form of aggressive driving and on a street it's borderline dangerous. I dropped 0.5 seconds just from IRS Base kit alone. So for the 200-300$ that this cost is not only not waste of money is actually a great value. Though it did added a bit of NVH.
 

paulm1

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Tax returns are coming so I’m shopping…I’m in need of some guidance on a few more suspension upgrades I’m planning on doing to my 21 GT non PP. It’s my DD that will never see a track. I’m running 285/35/19 square but might go staggered in the future. Last year I installed Steeda minimum drop springs,Steeda Pro-Active shocks /struts along with camber plates. Now I’m looking at adding the FP Strut Tower with the rear cowel brace, Steeda Extreme K member brace and Steeda IRS Subframe Braces. I’m on the fence thinking about Steeda Vertical links, Steeda subframe alignment & subframe bushings kit but are they really necessary for a DD? Any advice is appreciated. Thanx😎
I would add the steeda rear subframe braces and 305's all the way around.
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