How low is too low?

[ahl395]

Any lowering and you'll have to be mindful of it. I'm only moderately lowered on GT350R springs and I still have to be careful with scraping. Have to watch out for certain entrances and go in on a moderate angle, speed bumps an extreme angle as they will scrape bad.

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[Berry79]

Think I’ve decided on the Steeda progressives. Are the PP1 shocks/dampeners sufficient or should I spring for an upgrade. This is just a weekend fun car that I’m looking to improve the stance and handling.

 

[2015Etrac]

Think I’ve decided on the Steeda progressives. Are the PP1 shocks/dampeners sufficient or should I spring for an upgrade. This is just a weekend fun car that I’m looking to improve the stance and handling.

I'd grab a set of the Steeda shocks/dampeners.

 

[choate]

I rub with jacking rails and no lowering at all, so keep that in mind.

The jacking rails don’t touch any part of the suspension, tires or wheels. This is bad information. You must have wheels and tires that aren’t in the offset that work

 

[choate]

FYI any progressive spring may look cool but it’s going to be bouncy as hell. These cars stock are bouncy. I’d stick to a linear spring. Just a heads up

 

[Nagare]

Think I’ve decided on the Steeda progressives. Are the PP1 shocks/dampeners sufficient or should I spring for an upgrade. This is just a weekend fun car that I’m looking to improve the stance and handling.

If you're paying labor, get the shocks/struts too and be done with it once instead of having to go back and do it again (the steps are basically all the same + alignment again). If you're doing it yourself, test it in increments so you can fully appreciate the differences and see just where you want the changes to be.

Also agree with @choate, linear handles way better imo (although my experience isn't 100% fair to bring up here. I went from Eibach Sportlines to Steeda Sport Linears). The linear springs ride better to me because you fully know how the car will respond whereas the progressives are bit less predictable.

 

[Berry79]

Thanks for the replies. Going to do some research on the linears. In the past I’ve always known the linears to be the more rougher of a ride spring. I’m sure things have changed a lot since I have my last lowered car. It’s probably been at least 15+ years. Damn, I’m getting old, lol

 

[BmacIL]

If you're paying labor, get the shocks/struts too and be done with it once instead of having to go back and do it again (the steps are basically all the same + alignment again). If you're doing it yourself, test it in increments so you can fully appreciate the differences and see just where you want the changes to be.

Also agree with @choate, linear handles way better imo (although my experience isn't 100% fair to bring up here. I went from Eibach Sportlines to Steeda Sport Linears). The linear springs ride better to me because you fully know how the car will respond whereas the progressives are bit less predictable.

Linear + a well-matched set of dampers

 

[Nagare]

Thanks for the replies. Going to do some research on the linears. In the past I’ve always known the linears to be the more rougher of a ride spring. I’m sure things have changed a lot since I have my last lowered car. It’s probably been at least 15+ years. Damn, I’m getting old, lol

They might be rougher than the progressive, but I definitely value the predictability more. The progressives get great reviews, I just learned my lesson from the Sportlines. If you want to make the drive up here (Ft. Lauderdale), I'd be down to take you for a quick ride, you'll just have to forgive that 2 of my cylinders are down all the time.

 

[Berry79]

They might be rougher than the progressive, but I definitely value the predictability more. The progressives get great reviews, I just learned my lesson from the Sportlines. If you want to make the drive up here (Ft. Lauderdale), I'd be down to take you for a quick ride, you'll just have to forgive that 2 of my cylinders are down all the time.

Thanks for the offer. Will definitely be doing all the work myself. The only issue I will have will be clocking the bushings and alignment. Don’t have a way to get the car high enough to clock the bushings. The car should be here on the 21 of January. Just trying to get all the parts together while I wait it out.

 

[Roadway 5.0]

Think I’ve decided on the Steeda progressives. Are the PP1 shocks/dampeners sufficient or should I spring for an upgrade. This is just a weekend fun car that I’m looking to improve the stance and handling.

You’ll be “ok” with the PP dampers, but if your budget allows for sure invest in a set of ProActions or FRPP tracks.

If you’re installing springs, doing dampers simultaneously makes fiscal sense. Not to mention my opinion of the PP OEM dampers is drab; my PP shocks started leaking at 8k miles.

 

[Nagare]

Thanks for the offer. Will definitely be doing all the work myself. The only issue I will have will be clocking the bushings and alignment. Don’t have a way to get the car high enough to clock the bushings. The car should be here on the 21 of January. Just trying to get all the parts together while I wait it out.

Depending on where you are exactly, check Garage Yourself. They're in North Miami and have a drive on lift that you could use to do the bushing and hopefully be out pretty quick. It is about $25 an hour I believe, includes all tools. Or if you know the guys at the suspension shop, they might let you get under their lift to do it.

 

[Mustangpursuit]

I just had the Ford Performance Track Shocks/Struts paired with Steeda 200/750 Linear Minimum Drip 0.5" springs and already have the CB005 BMR lock out kit, I am happy with it not being slammed and drives very decently for my daily driver, flat cornering, less bounce, no wheel hop. The Installers also said my tires suck.... so as most know, we need to eventually ditch the factory P Zero A/S...

 

[Berry79]

Depending on where you are exactly, check Garage Yourself. They're in North Miami and have a drive on lift that you could use to do the bushing and hopefully be out pretty quick. It is about $25 an hour I believe, includes all tools. Or if you know the guys at the suspension shop, they might let you get under their lift to do it.

Thanks for the heads up. Never heard of “garage yourself”. That will probably be exactly what I will do.

 

[Nagare]

Thanks for the heads up. Never heard of “garage yourself”. That will probably be exactly what I will do.

The place is great, decently clean and all the tools you need are there, including a spring compressor. For anything you are not familiar with, the owner, Todd, is around and willing to give you a hand or look up reference materials as well. Well worth the price and I've been on two occasions. If you've got a buddy that needs to do work, maybe look at coming early and taking a day for the two of you because I want to say it tops out at $200 but you can do as many cars as you want in that time.

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