How do you guys deal with the D^MN parking brake spring?

[GTP]

Would appreciate some posts from others with successful methods.

I upgraded my GT brakes to GT350 in September. I had to troubleshoot a noise to the parking brake plate being bent enough to rub against the rotor. I've since needed to replace both rear hubs. So we're talking installing/removing the parking brake parts five times, and each time I have to fight the parking brake spring.

Ultimately I prevailed, but what an ordeal! I've tried several tools and techniques, none of which go quick and easy. So I am reaching out for more ideas.

Here is what @JAJ posted. I got the long hose pliers, but it is tricky just getting them into the spring, finding clearance for the long handles, squeezing them together, and being left with only one hand to work with. Not to mention they put a curvature to the spring, or want to jump out, etc. I'm not clear on how he uses the pry tool to get the spring off the crooked lever. I saw a post about those locking vise grip pliers with the spring compressing plates, but I think they were $150.

I did this upgrade for track days, and now I'm regretting installing the parking brake system at all.


Pic of JAJ's tools:

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[Johnny Rockit]

If the cable is like on old cars, I used pliers to slide the spring back then snallneedle nose vise grip on the bare cable.
I would think having the e brake might come in handy if you have a failure on the track.

 

[Wildwildwest]

I just competed a brake swap, I used a trim removal tool to grip a couple of the wounds near the top and pried out of the way (prying up and towards front of car) to slip on the socket. Then let go of the spring and inserted short extension into socket and then connected socket. Worked great and no need to mess with releasing the cable or creating slack in cable. took me 1.5 hours trying other things like the zip tie way. Couldn’t get any to work, then used the trim tool. Took like 15 seconds to pry it enough to get socket on. It didn’t stretch or break anything. After completion the parking brake engaged was in same position with same resistance or at least no noticeable change. Hope this helps.

 

[SheepDog]

Tried these?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...n6AvGTmgrYsitQ60FCGrw-M4NWbIenDxoCWqcQAvD_BwE

 

[Gearz]

With the spring extended (brake handle down) thread a couple of zip ties into the spring, in at the bottom, out through the side at the top. If you crimp a 90° bend into the end this is easier. Pull the brake handle up, tighten the zip ties (I've been able to compress the springs just by tightening the zip ties). Release the brake, pop the cable out of the bracket. I've done it in a few minutes.

Install is the reverse and just snip the zip ties. Easy peasy.

 

[GTP]

I just competed a brake swap, I used a trim removal tool to grip a couple of the wounds near the top and pried out of the way (prying up and towards front of car) to slip on the socket. Then let go of the spring and inserted short extension into socket and then connected socket. Worked great and no need to mess with releasing the cable or creating slack in cable. took me 1.5 hours trying other things like the zip tie way. Couldn’t get any to work, then used the trim tool. Took like 15 seconds to pry it enough to get socket on. It didn’t stretch or break anything. After completion the parking brake engaged was in same position with same resistance or at least no noticeable change. Hope this helps.

I have that exact tool, and have tried some methods with it already.

Are you saying you compress the spring with it, and then you are able to place the 18mm socket over the caliper bolt? I have had trouble with that method for the upper bolt.

 

[GTP]

With the spring extended (brake handle down) thread a couple of zip ties into the spring, in at the bottom, out through the side at the top. If you crimp a 90° bend into the end this is easier. Pull the brake handle up, tighten the zip ties (I've been able to compress the springs just by tightening the zip ties). Release the brake, pop the cable out of the bracket. I've done it in a few minutes.

Install is the reverse and just snip the zip ties. Easy peasy.

I think I'll try this idea first. Sure sounds easy.

 

[Wildwildwest]

I have that exact tool, and have tried some methods with it already.

Are you saying you compress the spring with it, and then you are able to place the 18mm socket over the caliper bolt? I have had trouble with that method for the upper bolt.

I stuck the tooil in to the spring and had it grab the top 2 -3 wound of the spring into the v of the tool then pry up and towards the front of car (the v part) and same time with other hand place the socket on bolt from underneath you are prying the spring right where the bolt head is, up and away to make just enough room to place the socket. You can put the small extension on the socket to make it easier to place in the bolt head…help with sliding socket in at an angle and pry up to slip on bolt.

 

[Wildwildwest]

I think I'll try this idea first. Sure sounds easy.

Cool.

 

[ChipG]

I use a trim tool to pull the spring down, then slip a brake fitting wrench head over the tangs, pop it out. I get them on and off in less than a minute. Examples below shown off the car for ease of picture taking and clarity.

 

[ChipG]

Full thread on replacing the hubs front and rear:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...isit-and-a-screw-up-for-entertainment.159924/

 

[WItoTX]

Cut off then delete? Shouldn't be using the parking brake on the track, makes perfect sense to just get rid of it!

 

[SL8888]

Would appreciate some posts from others with successful methods.

I upgraded my GT brakes to GT350 in September. I had to troubleshoot a noise to the parking brake plate being bent enough to rub against the rotor. I've since needed to replace both rear hubs. So we're talking installing/removing the parking brake parts five times, and each time I have to fight the parking brake spring.

Ultimately I prevailed, but what an ordeal! I've tried several tools and techniques, none of which go quick and easy. So I am reaching out for more ideas.

Here is what @JAJ posted. I got the long hose pliers, but it is tricky just getting them into the spring, finding clearance for the long handles, squeezing them together, and being left with only one hand to work with. Not to mention they put a curvature to the spring, or want to jump out, etc. I'm not clear on how he uses the pry tool to get the spring off the crooked lever. I saw a post about those locking vise grip pliers with the spring compressing plates, but I think they were $150.

I did this upgrade for track days, and now I'm regretting installing the parking brake system at all.


Pic of JAJ's tools:

I remember that it was a real PITA ! I finally got out a small valve spring compressor that is for small engines (5 HP Briggs) to compress that spring after I loosened up the parking brake adjuster. Thanks for helping me to relive that moment in my life as I ran out of beer that day....

 

[Wildwildwest]

I stuck the tooil in to the spring and had it grab the top 2 -3 wound of the spring into the v of the tool then pry up and towards the front of car (the v part) and same time with other hand place the socket on bolt from underneath you are prying the spring right where the bolt head is, up and away to make just enough room to place the socket. You can put the small extension on the socket to make it easier to place in the bolt head…help with sliding socket in at an angle and pry up to slip on bolt.

Stealing a photo from ChipG…with the spring, caliper and bracket all mounted put the tool in the spring just like in the pick (1-2 wounds higher) and twist tool to the right a little an pull out to the left and then up…will provide just enough room to put socket on bolt head. Literally 10-15 seconds.

 

[GTP]

Stealing a photo from ChipG…with the spring, caliper and bracket all mounted put the tool in the spring just like in the pick (1-2 wounds higher) and twist tool to the right a little an pull out to the left and then up…will provide just enough room to put socket on bolt head. Literally 10-15 seconds.

Yeah, I remember reading his thread.

So the idea is to get at the upper bolt without disconnecting the park brake spring at all? That would work for rotor or hub replacement.

To disconnect the cable from the arm, I'll try the zip tie method.

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