revinto7
Well-Known Member
non of that as of yet thenInjector noise isn't referred to as the BBQ tick. The BBQ tick is bottom end ticking which can be heard down low behind the front wheels.
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non of that as of yet thenInjector noise isn't referred to as the BBQ tick. The BBQ tick is bottom end ticking which can be heard down low behind the front wheels.
3rd engine is just 2 new blocks. Several board members have that many.I have personally heard of an individual that is on the 3rd engine! Ford performance specialized shop told me about it, so I doubt they lied to me as there is nothing to gain from it. If you ask me I think is disturbing that you can have 2 back to back bad engines! Actually, it's 3 since the engine that came in the car.
Ok, you actually had an issue with your engine, with it smoking and using oil. That’s legit.My 17 gt had the tick, was consuming oil and smoking at idle. The dealer replaced the short block and 1000 miles later its ticking again. Only from cold til full temp. However, it blue smokes 3 or 4 seconds after starting after it sets for more than 30 mins.
Do you know what is making the tick noise?Im not an idiot built to many cars to know whats normal and whats not ...
take down oil pan -grab big end of rod on crank and you can move the rod side to side on the crank and hear the same noise as when its running . thats the loud tick people hear that sounds like piston slap but is not ..thats the noise ..i figure the rod heats up and expands before the crank due to density then starts to make noise then when fully hot its closer to spec/tollerance and my noise is gone , for me it happens to start normal then 3 min in it starts to make noise then in 3 more min its gone and doesn't happen unless the car cools down for hours then it repeats ..Do you know what is making the tick noise?
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/gen-3-coyote-measurements.122096/take down oil pan -grab big end of rod on crank and you can move the rod side to side on the crank and hear the same noise as when its running . thats the loud tick people hear that sounds like piston slap but is not ..thats the noise ..i figure the rod heats up and expands before the crank due to density then starts to make noise then when fully hot its closer to spec/tollerance and my noise is gone , for me it happens to start normal then 3 min in it starts to make noise then in 3 more min its gone and doesn't happen unless the car cools down for hours then it repeats ..
i never said i actually did this i saw a video on youtube titled coyote tick or something and assumed thats what I'm dealing with so maybe your correct .i saw the other thread you sent me so that was defiantly interesting and possibly promising but why do some have noise and others don't or why do some develop it with some miles ..do we all have the noise and some are just not worried about ithttps://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/gen-3-coyote-measurements.122096/
I guess your engine and tick is different than this post.
i assume the big end at the crank is the culprit too in my opinion too .i feel as if its a tolerance issue and some are just worse than others . i guess time will tell .im going to boost mine soon and if it breaks i will build a short block for it .I Don’t know! Your post seemed that you found the culprit.
Ford seems to know and says pay it no mind. Be nice if they’d ID the source.
GT Pony’s theory says everyone has loose big end rod / /crank clearance issues like you think.
There's still data that shows excessive rod side clearance could be the cause - been some Gen2 Coyotes that definitely had bad ticking and were found to have rod side clearances out of factory spec. Ford replaced short blocks which fixed many of the tickers, and didn't on other tickers (so maybe another bad short block?). One guy's measurements don't blow the whole theory out of the water - it just muddies the waters.GT Pony’s theory says everyone has loose big end rod / /crank clearance issues like you think.