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Hood flutter over 120mph

Bahndvr

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The high speed hood flutter is distracting especially with the Roush hood scoop.
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pstoppani

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I wonder if the Shelby GT-H hood has the same issue given it has two extra vents ...
 

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sigintel

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Hood flutter

Had this issue. Could it break? Who knows, but any distraction or confidence breaker at high speed has to go. Lol.
I adjusted the latch down a couple mm and checked latch torque. Hood closed tighter and no prob for abit. Like an idiot I didnt add enough bumper height.
Later caught a cross wind gust at 130 and it fluttered one side only. Increased the bump stop height a tad more and fixed.

When I pushed the front fenders out for 305s, I adjusted the front bumper several degrees downward in angle. This makes the hood real tight down over headlights and all remaining flex completely stopped.
 
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Elvis66

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I removed the underyray from the front of my car and it stopped. Something to do with pressure inside the engine compartment?
Your right .. I have an EcoBoost and around 120 my hood would do the same .. I took off the heat blanket.. and actually cut holes in my hood and put the Drake heat extractors in..now my hood is not lifting at all at hi speeds .. I would imagine this problem is probably more common with the hoods on the V6 and EcoBoost that don't have to heat extractors at all.
 
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Your right .. I have an EcoBoost and around 120 my hood would do the same .. I took off the heat blanket.. and actually cut holes in my hood and put the Drake heat extractors in..now my hood is not lifting at all at hi speeds .. I would imagine this problem is probably more common with the hoods on the V6 and EcoBoost that don't have to heat extractors at all.
Do you have pics of the drake extractors installed ?
 

Bahndvr

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[ame]
 
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Thanks but thats on a GT hood which already have cut outs for heat extractors, i want to see his EB hood that he moddified to fit the heat extractors.
 

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Elvis66

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DRAKE Heat extractors on a EcoBoost Hood ..WITH LED turn signals

Yes it was work ..but not to hard to make the Drake heat extractors work on the EcoBoost Hood.. ther was some modification that has to be done to the heat extractors before you can put them on the EcoBoost Hood..so that it will fit perfectly flush..I had to order new longer button head bolts... because you will be Drilling 10 holes per each heat extractor on both sides . Where is the GT Hood it's only that the 3 bolts that holds the heat extractor down..you won't be using the front suppled mounting bracket that comes with the Drake Heat exchangers . Also you will need to notch. The inside backing plate that goes under the mesh screen so that all the bolts can go thru the hood ..... and that's pretty much all that you have to do to the heat exchangers to make them fit flush ..once you get them in the exact location that you want them use the Heat exchangers themself as a template .. use a Sharpie as reference to all the points to be drilled .once you take the heat blanket off the bottom of the hood..you can see the stamping for the Factory heat exchangers location.this will give you a good reference point...I can't stress this enough. Measure and double check your measurements before you attempt to making holes..
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Elvis66

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I recommend using a step drill bit because it makes the holes really nice without pulling up on the sheet metal. The supplied backing plate that comes with the heat exchangers has an opening for the airflow.. use this as your template that you will be cutting. I recommend using a small little metal cutting wheel that you can use on a Dremel so you have control and precise cuts..mask off surrounding areas with good painters tape.when your cutting .. use a face shield or eye protection... after that I bolted everything together was really happywith the out come .. no more hood fluttering.. after that I figured would be a good time to add the hood turn signals...Starkey Products makes an amazing kit .. with a little bit of modification with the Drake heat extractors I was able to make them work
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I recommend using a step drill bit because it makes the holes really nice without pulling up on the sheet metal. The supplied backing plate that comes with the heat exchangers has an opening for the airflow.. use this as your template that you will be cutting. I recommend using a small little metal cutting wheel that you can use on a Dremel so you have control and precise cuts..mask off surrounding areas with good painters tape.when your cutting .. use a face shield or eye protection... after that I bolted everything together was really happywith the out come .. no more hood fluttering.. after that I figured would be a good time to add the hood turn signals...Starkey Products makes an amazing kit .. with a little bit of modification with the Drake heat extractors I was able to make them work
That looks great...but not feeling cutting and drilling into my hood, what if i make a wrong measurement.....you are a brave man
 

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I've got a gutted stock grille with way more air incoming than stock, and no appreciable hood lift/flutter at ~125mph on the long straight at Thunderhill 3mi course. Key was my gutted Roush vents - meaning I cut out the bottom of the vents, hood opening, and hood insulation. You can see the effective difference in outlet area in the pic where I'm holding the stock hood vents next to my setup.

Helps keep the beast cool with that much air moving through, also did Reische 170 deg thermostat to start at cooler temp.
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Never noticed hood flutter...

The hood on a 350 doesn't flutter more than a 1/4 or so. Is it possible you didn't see it because of how dark it was? Reason I ask is mine did it at around 140 at Pocono raceway. Very distracting. I wonder what could cause the difference.
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