Honey Badger's Completely Off-the-Rails Race Car Build and Track Adventure Thread

[honeybadger]

More progress tonight. I finally got a method down for removing seam sealer, sound deadener, and other treatments. I've discovered that the right tools and method is critical. Previously I had tried a heat gun and paint scraper - that worked okay on the sound deadener "mats" that aren't super well attached. However, with the "wipe-on" deadener, it was fairly ineffective. I also tried dry ice and alcohol in a previous run at this in 2020 and found it to be "okay" with this deadener material.

Okay - let's get on with it. First, here are the tools I used. IMHO, a respirator rated for mold is critical to combat the fumes from burning the sound deadener/seam sealer. And the full face shield is highly suggested if you're using an angle grinder or wire wheel. Not pictured is the fire extinguisher. Reminder that you should always have a fire extinguisher in your shop - especially if you're working with flames/welding, etc.

First, heat the seam sealer with the torch

I only get it to start turning brown - basically enough to soften it. This section only took about 10 seconds.

Get your wood chisel and start whittling it up. IME, if it's hard, you either need more heat or you're getting snagged on one of the layers of metal.

Should look something like this when done

Okay - moving over to the driver side wheel well, you'll see that the same method exposes a gap. There's a decent amount of material still in there, so I started with the wire wheel on the drill pushed into the gap to clear it out.

Looks like this after.

This is easily removed with the pick

Now just run over all the seams with the wire wheel on the drill to clean up the remaining sealer left behind.

Full "rear seat" area done tonight. I used the same method on the sound deadener that was on the wheel well that you can see below. I'll share some additional details on that and when I used the wire wheel/angle grinder tomorrow when I shift to the trunk and firewall.

 

[Tomster]

But what about the toxic fumes and the known carcinogens from heating those compounds?

Lol, Kevin. That is going to be some car when you are done.

 

[honeybadger]

And what was your reasoning for doing this?. What type of rust preventative do you plan on applying to the bare metal?. Are you worried about De-Tempering the metal?. Just wondering, that a whole lot of stuff to put back together.
Good Luck

I have three reasons I wanted to do this:

1. It adds rigidity to high stress areas like the shock towers that will help reduce the likelihood of a fatigue failure. This car will see some pretty insane loads in the future, so this is just a good precaution.

2. Because of the added rigidity, you can remove some secondary bracing like the strut tower brace to help open up accessibility and lose weight.

3. In the event of a crash, it'll take a lot more force to separate the stamped layers from each other, giving me more protection and hopefully making it harder to total the chassis out.

I'm not worried as this is pretty standard stuff - Ford seam/stitch welds all of their factory race cars.

Full interior, engine bay, and underside will be repainted.

 

[honeybadger]

But what about the toxic fumes and the known carcinogens from heating those compounds?

Lol, Kevin. That is going to be some car when you are done.

That's what the respirator is for!

 

[K4fxd]

Is this strictly hobby (track days) or are you chasing trophy's and or money?

Seam welding makes a real improvement in feel and chassis repeatability.

 

[Tomster]

Is this strictly hobby (track days) or are you chasing trophy's and or money?

Seam welding makes a real improvement in feel and chassis repeatability.

Don't forget about the large ta tas that are handing over the billboard sized check.......

 

[TonyNJ]

What a savage. You aren't messing around. You are certainly living up to your name...

"The honey badger is notorious for its strength, ferocity and toughness. It is known to savagely and fearlessly attack almost any other species when escape is impossible, reportedly even repelling much larger predators such as lion and hyena. It is primarily a carnivorous species and has few natural predators because of its thick skin, strength and ferocious defensive abilities."

 

[Inthehighdesert]

This is a pricey tool but very very good for what your doing. I’m still using the one I purchased when they first came out almost 25 years ago. Makes quick work of seam sealer, decals, or a basic prep on a panel for repair. It’s aimed at the pro but depending on how much your doing as a hobbyist it can pay for itself quickly.

https://wurthtool.com/collections/miscelaneous/products/dbs-3600-brush-grinder-kit-orsy-bull-case

 

[Tomster]

That's what the respirator is for!

Which one? They are not all built the same, lol

 

[honeybadger]

Is this strictly hobby (track days) or are you chasing trophy's and or money?

Seam welding makes a real improvement in feel and chassis repeatability.

next 2 years will be development as budget allows. Then plan to chase track records

This is a pricey tool but very very good for what your doing. I’m still using the one I purchased when they first came out almost 25 years ago. Makes quick work of seam sealer, decals, or a basic prep on a panel for repair. It’s aimed at the pro but depending on how much your doing as a hobbyist it can pay for itself quickly.

https://wurthtool.com/collections/miscelaneous/products/dbs-3600-brush-grinder-kit-orsy-bull-case

I saw that. I’d be all over it if I had access to enough air. Definitely something I need to add at some point. Missing out on all the great air tools

Which one? They are not all built the same, lol

Been Using the multi gas p100 for the seam sealer and sound deadened type of stuff and a p100 2097 for the welding since it fits under a mask. And of course venting the shop

 

[stasik-a4]

Hey Kevin, you have a DM on TMO ;)

 

[DougS550]

I have three reasons I wanted to do this:

1. It adds rigidity to high stress areas like the shock towers that will help reduce the likelihood of a fatigue failure. This car will see some pretty insane loads in the future, so this is just a good precaution.

2. Because of the added rigidity, you can remove some secondary bracing like the strut tower brace to help open up accessibility and lose weight.

3. In the event of a crash, it'll take a lot more force to separate the stamped layers from each other, giving me more protection and hopefully making it harder to total the chassis out.

I'm not worried as this is pretty standard stuff - Ford seam/stitch welds all of their factory race cars.

Full interior, engine bay, and underside will be repainted.

Thanks. Serious job for sure. Good luck

 

[honeybadger]

Hey Kevin, you have a DM on TMO ;)

Replied!

 

[NFG19]

Well! the full race car conversion of HB has commenced. I've fully stripped the drive train, fuel system, and interior.

Once I got the interior stripped, I started on removing the remaining sound deadener with a heat gun and pain scraper.

I then started on removing the seam sealer and prepping the seams for welding. At this point, the regret started to fully set in.

5 bloody fingers, a burnt arm, and completely covered in various forms of particles, the regret is significant. But too late to turn back!

Did some testing on my prep level with Dad's new welder (Miller 220). Game on!

If anyone knows how to get this up, I'd love to know. Heat didn't help and apparently it's fireproof because it just sat there unaffected when I introduced it to the blow torch.

For anyone interested - the body harness, various modules, fuse box, and magneride controller weigh about 30 lbs. I don't think I've ever been more angry at some wires - took 2 hours to get that sucker out.

Waiting on some tools to hopefully expedite the removal of seam sealer. But next up is getting the sealer off the fire wall and back seat/trunk area. Then we'll start welding the interior. After that, I'll strip the engine bay, k-member, and rear IRS to get access to those areas. Try dry ice let it set for a while! That get that part you tried to kill with fire! Lol

 

[NFG19]

I think what I wrote got put in your part of the post? Lol Try dry ice for that square part in floor board!