HELP: “Drive Mode Selection Not Available” - NOT Exhaust Valve Related

[Schwerin]

@Schwerin what is the recall for? Can you post the TSB for it here?

Its to apply an update, on manual cars. The whole backup camera, mode/exhaust/steering selection, gear sensor, rev matching, parking sensors everything just randomly go dead and default back to Normal till you let the car sit a bit then restart it.

NHTSA Campaign Number: 22V382000

This specific one seems to be for the 2019-20 5.0 but it sounds like an identical issue to yours so there may be a similar TSB/recall for the GT350.

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[voodoochild1990]

@Schwerin sounds like my issue, unfortunately restarting the car didn’t help at all, nor did a KAM reset. The car was at a track day and it was hot out (direct sunlight) for about half a day, so that may have contributed to it. I’ll mention this TSB to the dealership along with my inspections as they are very receptive to and take seriously my input on service matters thankfully (good dealership).

Part of me also thinks that the broken motor mount bushing (driver’s side) may have caused a wire pinch somewhere too, but I don’t have the means (time and facility) to do much deeper than what I have until I get a lift. I also would require the Ford Master Technician “Rosetta Stone” for reading PCM and ECU codes. I think it’s likely either a bad VDM module combined with known wiring harness issues at the trunk, but could be upstream at the PCM laid out in this TSB as the exhaust mode did switch back and forth on its own prior to complete failure (indicating a code fail/error state). Steering modes and exhaust modes appear to be working as intended.

 

[WItoTX]

If you have time, read my build thread. I have a similar issue I am working through. I am 99% sure now it is caused by the battery which is old. I have a new LiPo battery on order, and am going to swap, hoping the issue resolves itself.

Being it yours is a 2017, have you replaced the battery yet? Have you pulled and re-inserted the dyno plug? Does your battery sit on a tender when the car isn't driven? I also suggest getting forscan and checking ALL the codes, not just the codes that throw the CEL.

I also made the following video from my car which shows that the exhaust valve status randomly showing up while driving, and it happens sporadically. Usually I can turn the car off, and back on, and it clears itself up. However, it seems to be more prevalent in the heat, or when I don't have the car on a battery tender (Which also makes me think battery is the issue).



Good luck, and let me know what you find. Maybe I can learn something on my car! I also have my factory suspension controller if you are looking for a new used one (I swapped mine for a DSC), and I know the factory controller works.

 

[voodoochild1990]

@WItoTX thanks for this! I did have the battery checked and it was healthy/good, maybe I can see if I can get a new battery and return it as a test, but have to find a place that will allow a return if that’s not the issue. Voltage read outs from the battery are in normal range.

Where is the “dyno plug” located? Haven’t checked that yet.

I have looked at the DSC VDM and am interested in going that route, how do you like it? Also I would love to take you up on the stock VDM you have to test and see, would save me some $$$ at the dealership and parts to know if that’s the root cause.

 

[WItoTX]

My voltage "reads" healthy, but when I watch the battery gauge, I can see that about 75% of the time I am driving, it is north of 13.7 volts, and 25% of the time is drops to the proper 12.1 volts, indicating the battery has reached full charge. When I first got the car, the battery voltage was usually at 12.1-12.7 pretty consistently. And on top of the exhaust valve message, I have 8 codes I find in Forscan that are stored in various control modules that don't show up in the CEL. Internet digging supports that a dead/dying battery could be an issue.

The voltage being north of 13.7 indicates to me that the battery is constantly being charged, which means it is unable to hold a charge, despite being on the battery tender 24/7 when parked. The tender indicates the battery is good because the battery will hold a charge for 30 minutes (The tenders "test" window). I could be totally wrong. But I wanted a light battery anyways, so going to kill two birds with one stone.

I also know when batteries die, they do weird things to cars. For example, both batteries died in my truck two weeks ago. I was getting a CEL for the TPS among other things. Much like I am getting all the crazy codes in Forscan.

Before you start buying random parts, I would start with Forscan. It costs maybe $40 depending on the OBD reader you get. Then you have something to start chasing down.

If that doesn't help, shoot me a PM about the VCM.

 

[voodoochild1990]

My voltage "reads" healthy, but when I watch the battery gauge, I can see that about 75% of the time I am driving, it is north of 13.7 volts, and 25% of the time is drops to the proper 12.1 volts, indicating the battery has reached full charge. When I first got the car, the battery voltage was usually at 12.1-12.7 pretty consistently. And on top of the exhaust valve message, I have 8 codes I find in Forscan that are stored in various control modules that don't show up in the CEL. Internet digging supports that a dead/dying battery could be an issue.

The voltage being north of 13.7 indicates to me that the battery is constantly being charged, which means it is unable to hold a charge, despite being on the battery tender 24/7 when parked. The tender indicates the battery is good because the battery will hold a charge for 30 minutes (The tenders "test" window). I could be totally wrong. But I wanted a light battery anyways, so going to kill two birds with one stone.

I also know when batteries die, they do weird things to cars. For example, both batteries died in my truck two weeks ago. I was getting a CEL for the TPS among other things. Much like I am getting all the crazy codes in Forscan.

Before you start buying random parts, I would start with Forscan. It costs maybe $40 depending on the OBD reader you get. Then you have something to start chasing down.

If that doesn't help, shoot me a PM about the VCM.

@WItoTX I hear ya, that sounds very similar to my battery behavior when watching the Voltage while driving. I had the battery tested at AutoZone and they said it was "Good to go" but are those battery tests definitive? If I were to go with a new battery, do you have any recommendations? It'd be nice to find an AGM in our battery size (GT350 is Group T4) but the selection looks limited. Would you say AutoZone may have been wrong about the battery test?

Also, do you have any recommendations on the OBD reader to get for FORSCAN?

 

[K4fxd]

Also, do you have any recommendations on the OBD reader to get for FORSCAN?

This works well and is approved by forscan




https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-EX-F...mzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc

 

[Egparson202]

@WItoTX I hear ya, that sounds very similar to my battery behavior when watching the Voltage while driving. I had the battery tested at AutoZone and they said it was "Good to go" but are those battery tests definitive? If I were to go with a new battery, do you have any recommendations? It'd be nice to find an AGM in our battery size (GT350 is Group T4) but the selection looks limited. Would you say AutoZone may have been wrong about the battery test?

Also, do you have any recommendations on the OBD reader to get for FORSCAN?

I recently had an odd charging system malfunction, and like you my first stop was a check at the local auto parts store. They gave both the battery and alternator a clean bill of health. It did end up being a faulty connector to the alternator so they were technically right. But, in the time of getting the diagnosis and repair I learned a bit about S550 charging/electrical system. I think these cars (like all modern cars) expect clean power to the electronics. I don’t know if they’re more sensitive or if the batteries are sketchy, but @WItoTX is 100% right about getting a deeper look into the codes your car is likely throwing.

 

[voodoochild1990]

I recently had an odd charging system malfunction, and like you my first stop was a check at the local auto parts store. They gave both the battery and alternator a clean bill of health. It did end up being a faulty connector to the alternator so they were technically right. But, in the time of getting the diagnosis and repair I learned a bit about S550 charging/electrical system. I think these cars (like all modern cars) expect clean power to the electronics. I do t know if they’re more sensitive or if the batteries are sketchy, but @WItoTX is 100% right about getting a deeper look into the codes your car is likely throwing.

@Egparson202 do you know what codes I should specifically be looking for? I am having the recommended ODB2 scanner with FORSCAN access delivered this evening. If there is a FORSCAN guide (again, pardon my ignorance since I'm new here) that would be helpful as well and how I can change erroneous codes back to good standing. Thank you all for your help thus far, this is incredible.

 

[WItoTX]

@WItoTX I hear ya, that sounds very similar to my battery behavior when watching the Voltage while driving. I had the battery tested at AutoZone and they said it was "Good to go" but are those battery tests definitive? If I were to go with a new battery, do you have any recommendations? It'd be nice to find an AGM in our battery size (GT350 is Group T4) but the selection looks limited. Would you say AutoZone may have been wrong about the battery test?

Also, do you have any recommendations on the OBD reader to get for FORSCAN?

I can't speak to your autozone, but I don't really trust the guys by my house. I just purchased an Antigravity ATX-20, but honestly any Motorcraft product will work just fine, and if you aren't concerned about weight, that is the way I would go.

As far as OBD reader goes, that would probably work. I have the bluetooth model as recommended by several folks on here. It works awesome, and the cord isn't a giant PITA, so I can just set my laptop on the roof of my car. I forgot how expensive it was...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JFRFJG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you search on the forum, there are several guys who walk through the Forscan process. It's pretty straight forward getting the software downloaded, it's getting the Russians to send your license that has been problematic for some (No issues for me, but others reported it).

 

[WItoTX]

I recently had an odd charging system malfunction, and like you my first stop was a check at the local auto parts store. They gave both the battery and alternator a clean bill of health. It did end up being a faulty connector to the alternator so they were technically right. But, in the time of getting the diagnosis and repair I learned a bit about S550 charging/electrical system. I think these cars (like all modern cars) expect clean power to the electronics. I do t know if they’re more sensitive or if the batteries are sketchy, but @WItoTX is 100% right about getting a deeper look into the codes your car is likely throwing.

You know, I am going to look at that on mine tonight. If any S550 were to do it, it would be the vibrating 5.2!

 

[WItoTX]

@Egparson202 do you know what codes I should specifically be looking for? I am having the recommended ODB2 scanner with FORSCAN access delivered this evening. If there is a FORSCAN guide (again, pardon my ignorance since I'm new here) that would be helpful as well and how I can change erroneous codes back to good standing. Thank you all for your help thus far, this is incredible.

You get to be a detective. The code is just the start. Read the code, Google it, search on the forums, (Included TMO), you will have to chase it down yourself.

Report back here with what you find and there are plenty of us out here who can probably help you or have had to deal with similar codes.

 

[Egparson202]

@Egparson202 do you know what codes I should specifically be looking for? I am having the recommended ODB2 scanner with FORSCAN access delivered this evening. If there is a FORSCAN guide (again, pardon my ignorance since I'm new here) that would be helpful as well and how I can change erroneous codes back to good standing. Thank you all for your help thus far, this is incredible.

Unfortunately I have no firsthand experience with FORSCAN. But, you seem pretty resourceful.

 

[silverbullet85]

Did you check the wires/harness for the exhaust valves themselves? I would look them over real good. I didn't have any popped fuses either but when I looked at the wire harness it was shorting to the body on the passenger side, so it would revert the valves when I accelerated hard but non when I drove it normally. Check them out and report back

 

[voodoochild1990]

You get to be a detective. The code is just the start. Read the code, Google it, search on the forums, (Included TMO), you will have to chase it down yourself.

Report back here with what you find and there are plenty of us out here who can probably help you or have had to deal with similar codes.

Hi there @WItoTX @Egparson202 @silverbullet85

I ran the FORSCAN last night for any DTCs and seeing if just clearing codes would help. No dice on code clears, BUT the codes that did pop up revealed some module cascading electrical failure.

Here are the DTCs it threw:
(WARN) [21:58:21.617] DTCs in APIM: C1001:01-48
(WARN) [21:58:25.126] DTCs in BdyCM: U3006:16-08, U3007:16-08, B115E:08-0A, B1438:03-08, U0142:87-08
(WARN) [21:58:31.031] DTCs in FCIM: B1C83:14-0A
(WARN) [21:58:35.348] DTCs in ABS: U0122:00-AB
(WARN) [21:58:39.643] DTCs in PSCM: U0415:00-48, U3003:16-48
(WARN) [21:58:44.323] DTCs in SCME: B2477-60

Code meanings:

• C1001 - Vision System Camera General Electrical Failure (recall notice on this already)
• U3006 - Control Module Input Power “A”: Circuit Voltage Below Threshold
  • Cause: A continuous and on-demand DTC that sets in the BCM if the BCM detects lower than expected battery voltage on the voltage supply input circuit.
  • Failure Type: Circuit Voltage Below ThresholdThis sub type is used for failures, where the control module measures a voltage below a specified range but not necessarily a short to ground.
    
• U3007 - Control Module Input Power "B": Circuit Voltage Below Threshold
  • Cause: A continuous DTC that sets in the BCM if the BCM detects lower than expected battery voltage on the voltage supply input circuit.
  • Failure Type: Circuit Voltage Below Threshold
    This sub type is used for failures, where the control module measures a voltage below a specified range but not necessarily a short to ground.
• B115E - Camera Module Bus Signal/Message Failure (recall notice on rear view camera)
• B1438 - Battery Current Sensor: FM (Frequency Modulated) / PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) Failure
  • Cause: This DTC sets in the BCM when the BCM does not indicate current from the battery current sensor.
  • Failure Type: FM (Frequency Modulated) / PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) Failure
    This sub type is used for FM / PWM Failures that cannot be assigned to a specific sub type.
• U0142 - Lost Communication With Body Control Module "B": Missing Message
  • Cause:A continuous memory DTC that sets in the BCM if data messages from the BCMB through the GWM are missing.
  • Failure Type: Missing Message
    This sub type is used for failures where one (or more) expected message(s) is not received, e.g., periodic transmission where the repetition time is too high, or message not received as a result of unforeseen reset events of the concerning component (e.g. engine control unit communicating with ABS).
• B1C83 - Rear Defog Relay: Circuit Short To Ground or Open (could be related to rear view camera wiring harness recall)
  • Cause: This DTC sets when the FCIM detects an open or short to ground on the rear window defrost relay control circuit.
  • Failure Type: Circuit Short To Ground or Open
    This sub type is used for failures, where the condition detected by the control module is the same for either indicated failure mode.
    
• U0122 - Lost Communication With Vehicle Dynamics Control (VDC) Module (this is my suspicion as the core culprit)
  • Cause:
  • This code means that the Vehicle Dynamics Control (VDC) module and other control modules on the vehicle are not communicating with each other.
  • Failure Type:
    • Open power or ground to engine/powertrain control module ECM/PCM – most common
    • Open in the CAN bus + circuit
    • Open in the CAN bus - circuit
    • Short to power in either CAN bus circuit
    • Short to ground in either CAN bus circuit
    • Rarely - faulty control module
• U0415 - Invalid Data Received From Anti-Lock Brake System Control Module
  • Cause:
    • Faulty Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module
    • Anti-Lock Brake System Control Module harness is open or shorted
    • Anti-Lock Brake System Control Module circuit poor electrical connection
    • Invalid data network concerns - data is transferred within the normal inter-module message, but contains known invalid data. The transmitting module logs a DTC related to the invalid data concern.
    • Missing message network concerns - missing message concerns are logged by the module upon failure to receive a message from another module within a defined retry period.
  • Failure Type: Check for other PCM DTCs or PCM related symptoms. Diagnose all other PCM DTCs or PCM related symptoms first.
  • Service Bulletins related to Code:
    • https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/SB-10057863-3997.pdf
    • https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10143104-9999.pdf
• U3003 - Battery Voltage: Circuit Voltage Below Threshold (just slapped a fresh battery in last night before FORSCAN test)
  • Cause: This DTC sets in continuous memory and on-demand if the voltage supplied to the ABS module falls below 10 volts.
  • Failure Type: Circuit Voltage Below ThresholdThis sub type is used for failures, where the control module measures a voltage below a specified range but not necessarily a short to ground.
    
• B2477 -Module Configuration Failure (might be related to the PCM TSB Recall posted earlier)
  • Cause:
    • Reprogram Module ("Flashing")
    • New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Needs programming
    • Incorrect Vehicle Identification (VID) configuration
  • Failure Type: This Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) indicates programming error within Vehicle ID block (VID). Using the scan tool, reprogram the VID block. If PCM does not allow reprogramming of the VID block, reflashing PCM will be required.

So with all the above tallied up, it seems like my problems are squarely electrical in nature, now the real question is, where do I start along the electrical hierarchy and work my way down to individual subcomponents in thee codes?

Anyone here thrown these codes before and found a way to remedy them? Thanks in advance!

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