Header bolts

[ManBearPig]

I just ordered a set of Stainless Power longtubes, and considering these are on backorder for 6-8 weeks, I'll have plenty of time to study up on install techniques. I've already found that some guys remove the motor mounts while others don’t. I think I've decided to reuse the OEM header gaskets with no sealant. I'm also aware of needing to address the A/C line bolt. What I haven't found much info on is the bolts to use. I know that you can only reuse 1-2 studs per side (hopefully 2 per side so the header can hang, but we'll see once I'm in there). But for the bolts that have to replace….Are you guys using the bolts that come with the headers? Is there any reason to spend an extra $150 on ARP header bolts, or are the ones in the kit good enough? This is not a job I want to do more than once so I don't want to cheap out on bolts….but at the same time I've having a hard time justifying the expense if it's not needed.
Thanks

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[V8EATR]

I would always use as many of the oe studs/nuts as you can. I think on mine I only had to use 1-2 of the header bolts that came with it.

 

[beefcake]

reuse the oem studs!!!

 

[ManBearPig]

Reusing the OEM studs would be great, but I was under the impression only 1-2 could be reused due to clearance issues. Maybe that's only with certain headers?

 

[Kahboom]

You shouldn't have any problems using the oem studs with stainless Power/Works headers.

 

[ManBearPig]

Thanks for the info. I plan to do one side at a time...tackling the driver side first to hopefully gain some experience and learn a few tricks for the harder side.

 

[2-tone]

I think I was able to reuse all the studs but 2 on the passenger side. They are locknuts so you don't have to worry about them backing off.

 

[armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT]

I got frustrated with my install and didn't use as many of the header studs as I wanted on either side, mainly the passenger. I reused the factory gasket (17k at time of install, now 20k) and have no leaks. I pulled both motor mounts, starter, CAI, battery and parts of the battery box. You're going to need stubby and flex head ratchet wrenches. If not good luck. I followed MBRP and CJ pony parts install instructions. The AC bolt wasn't a huge issue in my install. You can bend the line a little bit to get more room. Some people have broken theirs so be careful if you do this. You're gonna need long extensions for the motor mount bolts too.

 

[mustang_guy]

Dropping the motor is so much faster and easier. To hell with the other method

 

[NvrFinished]

Dropping the motor is so much faster and easier. To hell with the other method

Can you elaborate on this? It makes sense when I think about it, but I have not heard that mentioned before.

 

[RYAN97812]

Used all OEM studs and nuts on my SP's. Advise, start all nuts before turning them down, pay attention to center upper two on drivers side. Did mine in an hour but I had my trans out at the time

 

[mustang_guy]

Can you elaborate on this? It makes sense when I think about it, but I have not heard that mentioned before.

You drop the the k-member. All of the following come out attached, engine, axles, brakes and control arms. This method requires a lift. I did a header job in 4.5hrs the way every one else has here. It took me just under 3hrs dropping the k-member. Granted im an ex Ford master tech. I'm a master tech by trade for over 3 decades though.

 

[ManBearPig]

Used all OEM studs and nuts on my SP's. Advise, start all nuts before turning them down, pay attention to center upper two on drivers side. Did mine in an hour but I had my trans out at the time

Good to know this can be done. Did you have to take studs out and put them back in?

 

[RYAN97812]

I did not. Disconnected steering shaft on drivers side and removed motor mount on passenger side that's it. Don't know if having trans out made more room to install.

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