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^^^^^ what he said. So many people don't follow that step, it confusing for guys that aren't doing this daily

I run 28x5x18 M&H bias fronts with 305 45 17 MT radials rears. No issues. Car was horrendous with 27x10.5x15 Hoosier Bias rears and bias fronts

Stifflers performance, check them out. Have it and highly rec.

Call them, Dave Goldie was the guy I spoke with there, instead of responding to my email he asked if he could call me. Super informative guy. Product is 100%!!!! I've dealt with all the major competitors and I would choose them over anyone unless a customer couldn't afford what they offer.

yes but every tune will advance or retard the cams. Also depends on where its tapped for gauge. If its one runner intake valve opening and closing will have effect on boost reading

Cam timing changes

Remove N2MB and load tune you had before then, if it's good you know its the box. Def sounds like crank signal is not going through box as its supposed to. I wired mine with duestch connectors so I can always revert back to stock if theres an issue

Ford calls for it in their service manual but it is not needed. Little finesse and you can get it out

Can anyone confirm the steering wheel controls, specifically the up down left right OK and the vol+ vol- fwd rew and OK are the same size? I am swapping controls through forscan and would like to use the buttons from an 18 if so so that they match what functions I am using them for. Thanks

Check your spark plug socket, if the rubber inside is missing that's your cause

I'll gladly do them for $500 you supply parts

Would you bang a hooker without a condom? How much of a risk taker are you? Stick to 600 RWHP on a factory Roush tune with a warranty and it's like banging your wife, you'll go bareback everyday

UPR with my VMP not a drop of oil after 10k boosted miles. Blower was off recently while installing built bottom end. Heat exchanger was as clean as it was from new. My 2 cents

you'll have to run 1.4-1.8 degree negative camber to not rub. I had similar set up and I compressed the suspension on my alignment rack so I can get as much camber as I could and still maintain a 1/4 if fender clearance. best I got was -1.4 at ride height. sold my 15" and went back to 17x10's...

Done it a 1000 times. Take your rolling torque and duplicate within 3 nm and you'll be all set. Don't need anything crazy either a 1/4 beam will work just fine, I do customers cars all day and have yet to have one return with an issue.

swap for a loaded pumpkin

They are fine if you are using their set up. They aren't visually unappealing. Problem with them are when you try to run -8an feeds from the rear, the passenger side requires an extension.

Nah they look like shit no matter what and their fuel rails leave much to desire.

Not to mention they look ugly when finished and the drivers side really doesn't fit nice with the evap solenoid bracket. Nice kit and just like every other one available they all have something that you would like to redesign

K060806 if you are running a 6 rib set up